ThatsDax rt High Performance Carburetor

Yah, as the YRR said, it's best, under most circumstances.
If your carb has a float bowl, it depends upon gravity, and the volume, (or NOT), of liquid present in the bowl, to operate the needle valve.
A diaphragm carb is not dependent on orientation. It functions from pressure differential.
...now if u got a hill climber! ... you'll need to orient that float bowl so it's doing it's job while it's climbing that steep hill, not while parked in your shop. :-)

These little engines are thrifty to operate, don't really consume much fuel, and the float bowls are generous, for what they are. The carb will tolerate a few degrees from optimum.

Unless you are doing a radical re-orientation of the engine, and are unable to set the float so it shuts off the needle valve, or the engine is starving for fuel on hi-speed runs, you can probably run it at an angle...

Best
rc
 
Sorry it took so long to arrive as some guys contacted me and bought all my RT carbs and I had to wait till my new shipment arrived any day before I could ship yours to you. We now have them back in stock and shipping. They are popular carbs and almost all buyers report 2-4mph gain, all report better throttle response and superior idle along with bigger torque in the mid range. Enjoy the ride..

mines taking a while too... shipping label created, not dropped off??? kinda sucks because i need that intake!
 
I ordered mine on the 23 and got it on the 31. Havent had time to check it out yet, but looks pretty good.
 
Finally got it and is SUCKING BIG TIME! It started first time but whoa that idle is way high. Backed that idle screw all the way out, screwed in the cable tensioners, same problem. Could someone tell me whats up wit this? I installed the #70 jet already. What are the symtoms of an air leak? Other than the idle, i ran it down the street and it felt wayyy stronger than my old cns.
 
Really? I got mine installed today, and its the opposite. Starts right up, and has a super slow idle, my engine is much quieter, and much more powerful then my old NT. Still using the regular 72 jet I think the one that comes with it.
 
With the engine idling (as best as it can) You can either spray water from a spray bottle or use carb cleaner, WD40, ect all around the intake manifold. Pay special attention to where the carb attaches as well as where the manifold bolts to the cylinder. Any change in idle speed indicates a leak.
Do NOT use brake cleaner!!! If it gets sucked in and burns in the engine, the fumes can cause nerve damage.

If you use a flammable spray, keep any fumes from getting drawn in through the air cleaner as it will give you a false result.
That is why I like to use water. It works just as well.


As for your photos, it looks like the slide is up too far for a slow idle. Unscrew the idle speed screw a little at a time to lower the slide and lower the idle speed.
 
I removed it, cleaned the sleeve and sanded the chrome intake a little and sealed the carb to the manifold with SealAll, gasoline resistant sealer/adhesive and waited until today to test. It runs great, maybe a little better than it has for a couple of weeks.
The plastic sleeve that's in the carb throat is intact, no apparent place where it could allow air through but after it was sealed my idle went back to normal and the surging went away. I did not disturb the intake flange gasket but checked the tightness of the fasteners. The leak was in the plastic sleeve, I'm certain.
Just thought I'd pass that along to you other RT owners.
Tom

So your leak was between the plastic and the intake. not the plastic and the carb? and you said you used some glue so is the plastic part attached permanently to your manifold now? also, i have an o-ring from sbp in between the manifold and the back of the plastic part. seems to still be leaking somewhere.
 
Use an awesome product called Seal All for carb "gluing". It comes apart when you want it to, stays together when you want it to, cleans up easily when you want it to, and is gasoline proof.
Oh yeah, it dries clear too. No funny colored goo oozing out from the connections.
Seal-All Adhesive Product Information
 
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So your leak was between the plastic and the intake. not the plastic and the carb? and you said you used some glue so is the plastic part attached permanently to your manifold now? also, i have an o-ring from sbp in between the manifold and the back of the plastic part. seems to still be leaking somewhere.
Correct. The air leak obviously was between the plastic and the metal parts. I applied Seal All to both the inside and outside of the plastic sleeve.

SealAll is a very good product, as GearNut said. Much better than most silicone based sealers. If you check the label of most silicones you'll see they are not meant to be used in direct contact with gasoline. They'll work as a sealer on the carburetor temporarily but will be softened and become gooey after some time and allow air to pass.

SealAll is formulated for repairs to gas tanks, fuel line connections etc. and is completely uneffected by gasoline, even it it contains ethanol.

The parts can be disassembled when needed.

Tom
 
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had my carb for a while now, and let me say i love it..but i am currently doing a rebuild and am wondering if i can paint the carb. also if the intake gets hotter than 500 degrees. as i would like to paint that too. no unpainted parts on this build. (im even painting the ends of my bolts)
 
I'm not sure that'd I paint the carb to me it just dosn't sound like a good idea. I don't think it will hurt anything it's just if fuel gets on it the paint will flake right away making it look pretty pathetic and messy, but for the other parts like the intake and wutnot, I don't think you can go wrong with engine enamel or BBQ paint. The engine enamel is rated to like 4-500 degrees or something like that but really your intake will never get hotter than about 260 max. So I'd say your safe painting anything that won't get touched by gas.
 
Correct. The air leak obviously was between the plastic and the metal parts. I applied Seal All to both the inside and outside of the plastic sleeve.

SealAll is a very good product, as GearNut said. Much better than most silicone based sealers. If you check the label of most silicones you'll see they are not meant to be used in direct contact with gasoline. They'll work as a sealer on the carburetor temporarily but will be softened and become gooey after some time and allow air to pass.

SealAll is formulated for repairs to gas tanks, fuel line connections etc. and is completely uneffected by gasoline, even it it contains ethanol.

The parts can be disassembled when needed.

Tom

(^) another bump for this suggestion
 
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