Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

I got this free app for my Samsung Galaxy Prevail cell phone called " GPS Speedometer" free demo and Velcro the phone to the handle bars as I ride I now get a perfect digital speedometer, on the button accuracy ,there is even an rpm option for it. I have no idea how tf that works but it does. Here is what it looks like on the machine!!

H1920001.jpg



Here it is Side ways

H1920002.jpg


BEST APP EVER FOR A PHONE "GPS SPEEDOMETER"
 
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Re: Extra tire protection!

5-7HEAVEN said:
My nearly-new tire tube ripped @ the valve. It was the heavy-duty thick one. I felt bad just throwing it away. Instead, I cut out the valve and slit the tube all the way around on the inside. Then I wrapped the defective tube around the new tube and reinstalled it onto the rear wheel.

Extra protection!dance1
Click to expand...
I never toss away tubes I cut them up like you did and I will use a chunk as my clutch engage for rolling the bike around " My lock broke 2nd day I had it" I also use some cut up pieces in my patch kit nothing works better on a tube than actual tube! If you have a idler set up you can use tube chunk under that to help limit the movement, motor mounts for less vibe, same goes for tank installation if you don't have double sided tape there are so many uses for a holy tube. Shoot I may go buy one just to cut it up NAA!! That's not gonna happen just trying to make 7 feel better !! Has any one tried those jell life time tubes ?
 
vincent713 said:
Hey Jumpa,

Is this app from Android? Also, do you need internet connection for this app to work?
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Yes it is from Android Vin. It works on a lot of different phones I guess I'm not sure how it works I think it just works off the phone itself no internet needed just to dload the app I mean there is no way I can reach my wireless when I'm 2 miles away wifi isn't that good ...yet It even worked when I had my wireless disabled on the phone because I had the same question must work off the same thing the GPS does in your car ... satellite?
 
5-7HEAVEN said:
I adjust the carb on my Tanaka 47R engine quite often.

So now, I adjust my carb's "L" and "H" settings with the fingernail on my forefinger.
Click to expand...


57, if you ever find yourself with spare adjustment needles, mail them to me, with some small brass threaded nuts of the appropriate size and I will braze or weld them on so you can have a nice little knob for making your adjustments.
Hate to see u pokin' at yer carb! lol
Best
rc
 
rustycase said:
57, if you ever find yourself with spare adjustment needles, mail them to me, with some small brass threaded nuts of the appropriate size and I will braze or weld them on so you can have a nice little knob for making your adjustments.
Hate to see u pokin' at yer carb! lol
Best
rc
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot, rc! I might take you up on that.

That's funny, the way you worded it, lol.laff
 
Hi,havent looked thru the hole thread but back to the fuel in tank problem in the beginning.a real easy way if your not concearned about how it looks and is easy to keep taps on fuel is to use the ways of archimedes,just put a T coupling just under the petcock and from that you mount a bit of clear fuelhose on the outside of the tank (uppwards).then you plugg it when its in level with the gascap.just a tip oon the cheaply side.
 
Jumpa said:
I got this free app for my Samsung Galaxy Prevail cell phone called " GPS Speedometer" free demo and Velcro the phone to the handle bars as I ride I now get a perfect digital speedometer, on the button accuracy ,there is even an rpm option for it. I have no idea how tf that works but it does. Here is what it looks like on the machine!!

H1920001.jpg



Here it is Side ways

H1920002.jpg


BEST APP EVER FOR A PHONE "GPS SPEEDOMETER"
Click to expand...
That is pretty kewl!
 
monark said:
Hi,havent looked thru the hole thread but back to the fuel in tank problem in the beginning.a real easy way if your not concearned about how it looks and is easy to keep taps on fuel is to use the ways of archimedes,just put a T coupling just under the petcock and from that you mount a bit of clear fuelhose on the outside of the tank (uppwards).then you plugg it when its in level with the gascap.just a tip oon the cheaply side.
Click to expand...

That's a good tip. The "sight gauge" could even have the vertical run away from the tank, say on the seat tube or head tube. Thanks,
SB
 
hi again,about the sight gauge. you cant plug the upper end or there will be a vacumproblem.got a flashback an looked it up.we did on a friends old moped once and we hooked the upper end to the breather in the gascap.you gotta have a type of closed loop. ride on
 
Yes,
That makes sense, the air trapped in the sight gauge line would prohibit gas flowing. Could still be done remotely if the line reaches high enough and has a fuel shut off valve at the upper end when the bike was not in use... say if it ran up the seat post and under the seat. Simpler though as you have it.
SB
 
usflghi. im new to mbs.

i ordered my kit saturday and just got it today.

i ordered a mage motors 66cc kit and im not sure if this is the right one but it has a slant head.

in the assembly video it had a completley different kit.

im having trouble with the wires. i hooked it up like it said to

but the kill switch wont work.

the kill sitch is yellow/red and green

the engine is green black and white

and the plug cap box is green and black.


i have all the green together.

and both black with red/yellow wire.

the white one is supposedly for headlight?

i have it on a 26 inch huffy cranbrook.

and also, i accidently broke 2 spokes and bent a few due to a misalignment error

can i still ride this safely?

any help would be apreciated. thanks
 
Hi bikeman8, welcome to the forum!

The correct wiring for your setup would be:

Green to Green (the way you have it all ready).
Black to Black.
Leave the kill switch disconnected until after you have the engine running.
The kill switches are well known to be shorted out brand new. If yours is too and you connect it right away, the engine will never run, and you will be mad at it.
You can easily stop the engine by applying the choke or by holding the rear brake on and quickly letting the clutch out with the engine at idle speed.

When you do get to connecting the kill switch it does not matter what wire goes to what so as an example: Green to Green wires and Yellow/ Red to Black wires.

The white wire is supposed to be used for powering a light but it is too weak to power any light that will actually be bright enough to be any good.
Either cap it off with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing, or best to just cut it off right at the magneto inside the magneto housing.

Broken or bent spokes should never ever be trusted for any reason EVER.
Either repair the wheel or replace it.
It is not worth injuring yourself over.
 
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and a fool proof alignment adapter for rear sprocket
scroll 3/4 of the way down under bike parts you will
see an aluminum sprocket adapter sent by the gods
It puts the load on the hub ,where it should be, not \
on the spokes
http://www.sportsmanflyer.com/
 
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.trkthanks for the help guys.

also, im having trouble aligning the wheels.

if i brought it up to a motorcycle shop could they fix it and tune it?

ill try and post pics of my bike that ive dubbed frankenstien, as i have had to make the front mount from scratch.
 
I had the exact bike the Cranebrook it is blue pic in my profile photo's you can see in my picture how high it was mounted "the motor" before I got rid of that stupid pull starter that almost ripped my arm off . When I got rid of the pull starter I was able to drop the motor down to where it belonged made life so much easier & bike more balanced
 
curious as to why you had to make the front mount from scratch? No need unless you got the pull starter!
 
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