Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

I suppose it depends on the motorcycle shop. At the last one I worked at a guy brought in a 20" cruiser with a HT stuffed in it. I rewired it and cleaned out the carb and it ran like a champ.
 
OMG does that piss me off Gear when i hear that, Over here on the Right Coast its "Porfavor markka El uno para engless"
 
the reason i had to make the mount from scratc h is my kit supposedly came with a universal mount witch i did not get.

i had maybe 3 bucks left overall after i bought this, and i only get paid like 50 bucks a month for babysitting, so im kinda out of luck if i need to buy anything.
also, my stupid tensioner wont stay on no matter how tight i get it, it bends into the spokes and locks up the wheel:-||
 
Usually the sprocket not being centered on the rear axle is what causes wobble or stretch that throws the chain...that sprocket has to be centered perfectly and also has to be exactly perpendicular to the bike...no wobble side to side or back to front. Flip da bike upside-down and spin the wheel to see the side to side wobble. There should be the same gap if any around the center of the hub. One of the best things I did to solve this wobble problem is to only use one of the rag joints instead of two. I put it in the inner side of the spokes.
 
If you insist on using the tensioner get some rubber either from an old tube I cut up a welcome mat I had out side "That didn't go over to good with the Mrs's either" Wrap it around the bar then put the tensioner bracket on .

Then after I did that i drilled a hole through the tentioner as well as my chain stay and put a small bolt into it I didn't go all the way through the frame just enough to get a self tapping screwing to one side of it it held up till I took it off all together
 
george_n_texas said:
Usually the sprocket not being centered on the rear axle is what causes wobble or stretch that throws the chain...that sprocket has to be centered perfectly and also has to be exactly perpendicular to the bike...no wobble side to side or back to front. Flip da bike upside-down and spin the wheel to see the side to side wobble. There should be the same gap if any around the center of the hub. One of the best things I did to solve this wobble problem is to only use one of the rag joints instead of two. I put it in the inner side of the spokes.
Click to expand...
So your saying your sprocket is pressed right on your spokes?
 
thanks for the tips, ps anyone elses muffler break?

mine fell out of the casing.

when i got it it didnt have the outer endcap with the kit.

only the inner, is it covered by the warranty?
 
"mine fell out of the casing."

and

" a universal mount witch i did not get."

I'm sry...

lol

Welcome to the world of the chinagirl motors!

lol

Happy Times, indeed!

Gotta look at the brite side... ur gonna learn a lot!
We'll be glad to help you.

The chain tensioners are a liability.
What they basically do is get pulled into the spokes.

My recent used motorized bicycle had a combination wrench clamped in there to help it hold onto the chain stay!

I'm presently working on eliminating it. completely.

2 broken spokes...
Well, that is not good, and could very well be hazardous to your health.

<< I >> would clip 'em off with a wire cutters and make the trip home, cautiously, but that is not to say it is wise, or anything I would advise anyone to do.

I missed the kind of bike you have, but all spokes need attention, especially when new, and even more-so when power is applied to them.

Oh, unfortunately ur gonna have to remove the rag joint to repair the broken spokes...

Good luck
rc
 
i fixed the problem of the tensioner moving by attatching it to the top wheel brace/mount instead of the bottom, that way it pulls it tight and cant move, it does move very little tho, i fixed that problem by attatching a bolt in the idler wheel slide and attatching a guitar spring to it and the lower frame, ill try and get pics in a bit.
 
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if i posted it right this is my tensioner gehtto setup, works amazingly tho
 
o well, hey, i live in ofallon mo 63368 i need a 26 inch 1.5-1.75 wide rear coaster brake wheel and rim.

if anyone knows where i can get one it would be awesome
 
i hooked up the clutch like the video shows, and it works fine, but whenever you push it in, the engine dies.

any help???
 
Push it in? As in squeeze the lever to remove power from the rear wheel?
It could be as simple as turning the idle speed up a little bit.
 
Jumpa said:
So your saying your sprocket is pressed right on your spokes?
Click to expand...

Yes sir it is butted right up to the hub tight and centered after a bit of filing to make it large enough to seat. Mind you I never put probably 500 miles on either of my builds but the wobble problem was solved. I have heard a few others do this as well.
 
waintain said:
Stop at intersections,when police are present.
Click to expand...

(Phantom) pedal when riding thru intersections. Your MB will be mistaken as a pedal bicycle to police and video cameras. If cops are giving you second looks, phantom pedalling = bicycle riding with lots of coasting.dance1
 
5-7HEAVEN said:
(Phantom) pedal when riding thru intersections. Your MB will be mistaken as a pedal bicycle to police and video cameras. If cops are giving you second looks, phantom pedalling = bicycle riding with lots of coasting.dance1
Click to expand...

My FD engine stalls when I come to a stop, so I have to take off pedaling, and then reach back and pull the cord after I'm moving.

It's definitely a bicycle with a small assist engine! :)

Ok, my tip: Paint the red plastic cover on the HS/Honda engines with black plastic paint to help keep you in stealth mode! :)

cvlt1


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To avoid stripping out the mounting studs holes from overtightening I took 2" 6mm hex head bolts and threaded on the nuts, then installed the bolts. When the hex heads bottom out I can then use my wrench on the nut to draw in the mounting hardware without putting any added stress on the threads in the block. With the bolt not turning you are able to get a much stronger pull without stripping the block. This could probably be used on any stud hole on the motor however you shouldn't have to overtighten a carb or exhaust.
 
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