Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

[MEASURE TWICE]

Anyone have a grip on the twist grip throttle such it spins and turn the cable compressing the return spring, but may slip a little as the grip is not one with the cylinder part of the mechanism that turns the cable? It is in a way, but only has so much friction and with a weaker return spring the cable does not return all that well.

The cable is not kinked or without graphite lube.

I'm going the contact the shop I bought it from and see what they know... also the mfr... don't have the package anymore.

If no help and I have to find a way, I'll add some anything to anything rubber cement and slide the grip on and hope it works better.

Maybe a roll tension spring to make it as one! Just kidding... but have to have this thing fixed.

MT

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I found this web page:

http://www.dansmc.com/throttles.htm

I hear just shimming with electrical tape or glue had been done. I'll try putting the tape on, but first I'll have to see how easily the hand grip comes off. Maybe need to lube it? It already is some what loose but only I know spinning around. To take it off axlily I don't know how much friction there is in that plane.

I will check with the shop I bought it from later today and see if they have ideas too.

MT

 

[fugit]

I went the whole 9 yards on the tank. I bought the Kreem kit and washed out tank with chain and detergent, rinsed with water well, Soaked it full of phosphoric acid for 5 hours using a little rubber stopper where fuel valve goes then emptied, used the stuff that makes water go away(dont know the name of it but was in kit), and then spent a few hours with the kreem and lined the inside of the tank. The typical kreem kit is 50 bucks and wil do 10 or 12 tanks this size.

I read somewhere here about securing bolts with finger nail hardener but found some that actaully seeks out gaps and ridges. Used that on all screws on bike and non hot stuff.

Used two layers of teflon tape at fuel petcock when installing.

Pre spun screws on tank before installing about 1/4 of the way - much easier then trying to hold tank still and thread new screws over the paint.

When drilling for kill switch and throttle assembly i dabbed the bottom of the plastic peg on inside of kill switch with white paint and set the assembly carefully on the handle bars and removed. I had a perfect spot to drill after it dried a bit. I used a small drill bit to get stated and worked my way up to make hole.

Really enjoyed manic mechanics motor mounts Elegant

 

[fugit]

Well I got to do my first real improvision and modification today. Just before I went for a ride I pulled my clutch in and the spring button that holds the clutch in flew up and out across the patio. I found the spring and the button and saw it was cheaply held in place by a rivet - which broke hence sending the button flying.

So I found a small nut that is a lock nut that is used to hold fenders in place. The nut was a tad bigger then the bottom of the pin where the rivet was but the locking vinyl inside the lock nut snugged in good. So I filled the bolt with JBWELD and slid it on. I took a wrench and carefully snugged the end of the pin into the vinyl and then wiggled it to align the nut. It set up in about 15 minutes and has been working perfectly since.

The picture is the clutch handle and button bottom in the locked position.

 

[flmotorbikes]

Becarefull messing with the throttle the worst that can happens is it will tend to stick

 

[george_n_texas]

Yea we don't want no one burnin rubber in this neighborhood LOL

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Yep.
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[KANNONBALL13]

Here is my tip....I do not think that 91 oct. makes any difference. I had run 85 oct at 6000 feet above sea level, and I think it slowed everything down.

Also, I changed out my plug wire for an 8 mm, and upgraded to a Boch plug that is hotter, and I think things slowed down as well.
All I want is a flat run at 25mph it that asking to much?

 

[Goat Herder]

Here is my tip....I do not think that 91 oct. makes any difference. I had run 85 oct at 6000 feet above sea level, and I think it slowed everything down.

Also, I changed out my plug wire for an 8 mm, and upgraded to a Boch plug that is hotter, and I think things slowed down as well.
All I want is a flat run at 25mph it that asking to much?

What are you using for a motor?

 

[anonymous1]

Now all i need are blinkers, horn, headlight

 

[Old Reliable]

What do you mean these hts cant go 40 mph? I have mine running at 43, 32 tooth sprocket, msd plug wire and thats it for mods. Oh, and she still gets outstanding gas mileage. 4$ per week. But, those speeds require alot of tuning and preventative maintenance.

 

[Ciro]

Figured I would leave a couple basic tips since I'm sure ill be taking a few once I read through 50+ pages of ideas plus the ones I've already used from other sections of the forum for my first kit build.

Tip #1 should be common sense but just incase: lock up your bike through the frame and the front spokes, if you only lock up the wheel its easy to remove and easy to replace, if you only lock up your frame then just hope some1 needing new wheels and tires for the bike they just stole doesn't come by with a crescent wrench.
Tip #2: Power to weight ratio really does effect performance and maybe more than you realize, I've been told that in race cars every 10lbs. lost is like adding 1hp, with these kits and working on a much smaller scale weight and hp wise the change in performance could be more or less noticable, I highly doubt that the less than 3hp engine could be comparable to a 10hp motor if I dropped 100lbs but who knows? 3 hp with 150lb kid on it vs a 10 hp with a 250lb kid on it with all other factors remaining constant (gearing, fuel mix, aero dynamics) who would win? I guess the bottom line is we could all lose 10lbs and its not gonna hurt nothin lol

 

[george_n_texas]

Tip #2: Power to weight ratio really does effect performance and maybe more than you realize, I've been told that in race cars every 10lbs. lost is like adding 1hp, with these kits and working on a much smaller scale weight and hp wise the change in performance could be more or less noticable, I highly doubt that the less than 3hp engine could be comparable to a 10hp motor if I dropped 100lbs but who knows? 3 hp with 150lb kid on it vs a 10 hp with a 250lb kid on it with all other factors remaining constant (gearing, fuel mix, aero dynamics) who would win? I guess the bottom line is we could all lose 10lbs and its not gonna hurt nothin lol[/QUOTE]

I did notice one thing while trucking I got the same fuel economy or very close to it even when fully loaded because the same weight that holds you back going uphill pushes you even faster downhill. Now this is if you let it fly downhill which I did LOL. I remember going thru some mountains 85 MPH downhill and 15 uphill.

 

[Ludwig II]

For anyone considering using a sprocket attached to the l/h end of a disc brake hub, I found there are dished minimoto sprockets, which would offset a large sprocket away from the frame tube on a mountain bike, and that would make fitting a bit easier.

 

[Dave31]

If you are using a coaster brake, pedal forward after braking to release the brake completely for no drag and/or wearing out parts sooner.

 

[b4guaged]

what is the reasoning for zip tieng the spoke connections ?and the carb tuneing im not sure where mine should be im in hollywood fla near the beachand its on the 3rd from the botton with 5 all togeteher ?and does anyone suggest what to do if the engine is running extremly hott very quickly i do run a ngk plug

 

[rustycase]

Using zip ties at spoke intersections is an attempt to make the wheel a bit firmer. It may, or may not be effective.
I have seen it done a lot on offroad dirtbikes, though I have never done it myself.

If you feel your motor is running very hot it could be running lean, from too small a jet size.
What does your plug color look like?

...and there are so many variables beyond that...
Best to read a buncha threads here.

Good luck
rc

 

[Wally]

If a spoke breaks it can get hooked up and cause damage. Less chance of it flailing around.

 

[BikeBerryKelci]

The best thing I have found is slipping rubber pieces between the cylinder fins. You will be blown away by the dramatic change in engine noise...it's unbelievable!!! Put them every where you can that does not restrict air flow.

Great pictures! Great tip! Im going to have to borrow that from you!

 

[KCvale]

If you are using a coaster brake, pedal forward after braking to release the brake completely for no drag and/or wearing out parts sooner.

To get a lower gear ratio for pedal starting and better coaster brake performance swap out the common 18T rear sprocket with a 19T for $5, easy to do and a game changer on single speed coaster brake bikes.