100:1 Mix

The whole thing about the 100:1 mix is that the oil is thicker to begin with so it's almost like comparing gear oil to 10w30... 1 has more than enough substance to support that ratio where the other you could only safely run at 25:1 etc... This is very exagerated by the way, but most of you will get the idea... Mixing Opti2 or Amsoil at 20:1 or 25:1 can definitely be done, but you're just wasting it by doing so. Mixing your basic run of the mills 2 cycle oil or motor oil at 100:1, or even 50:1 for that matter and you're definitely asking for trouble. The oil needs to be formulated to run at these ratios but that doesn't mean you can add more oil to your mix, it mainly means not to try to use less oil in the mix...
 
Be fortunate enough to get a good engine to begin with, put a quality upper needle bearing in it, dont try to blow it up, tune the carb properly, run a quality oil in it at the recommended mix and chances are you'll get purdy darn good service out of it.

All of these engines are a bit of a crap shoot, but there are some that seem to be better put together than others.

So far Ive had 4 out of 6 engines hold up teally well, so I dont complain.

Ive got my best performance and smoothestrunning engines from Dax so far, but Ive heard there are others that have provided these same qualities.

I run Opti2 @ 100:1 in all of mine with excellent results, Im not an everyday rider, but when I ride I do long distances much of the time, 40 miles round trip isn't uncommon, I have heads on my engines that do allow them to run cooler and I honestly think if you run them hard for long distances this is a big plus.

Peace, map

dnut
 
Ok so I went thru my first tank of opti 2 and pulled the head to inspect the piston ( I heard how it is suppose to look shiny and new) and the piston and combustion area have a red sticky coating on them. Any conclusion of why? This was a brand new top end I am breaking in on opti...
 
Red and sticky sounds like the stuff they coat certain parts in to either keep from rusting or in the case of aluminum to keep from oxidizing during oversea shipping or time sitting on a shelf. Not saying that is the case here as you would think that stuff would burn off if it was happened to be used, but just sounds strange when you say red and sticky because that sounds nothing like anything I have seen from running opti-2.
My combustion area is not red and sticky, but more like a clean looking tan color sort of similar to what my spark plug looks like. No built up black goo, carbon or white hot spots. Just a nice subtle tan and sparkling clean looking cylinder. I have had the head off two of my engines that were both run on opti-2 and they both looked like very "Happy" clean burning little engines on the inside with no visable signs of wear like scoring or hot running.
 
I can only suggest that thorough cleaning of the assembly oil might be in order for all new HT engines. So assuming you are running Opti2 at 100:1 ratio do you think that the deposits are anything other than residual oil? What is the dye color of Opti2? You aren't running leaded 110 aviation fuel?
 
There was a thread on this odd red color a while back and there was proof offered by one member that in different parts of the country the fuel has different additives to adjust for local climate/conditions. One of those additives was reported responsible for the red color seen by some members.

Most Opti-2 users say they see a brown color on pistons and plugs. I've been running Opti for a long time and my plugs and piston crowns are shades of grey.

Fuel additives might be the culprit in this case. Just a theory that I happen to agree with.

Tom
 
My piston tops and combustion chamber ares runs at a medium to sorta dark brown color, I just run 87 octane unleaded fuel and I run just slightly on the rich side since i generally ride for long distances at close to, or at WOT, I like the tad bit extra fuel and oil for a little extra cooling at the upper rpms.

I've always had a bit of a sticky residue in my exhaust ports from running Opti2, not thick and gunky just a thin tacky residue in the exhaust port.

map
dnut
 
So, is the consensus that Opti-2 is recommended for our 2-stroke motors? I just ran across this thread, and I was surprised to see that it's such a small amount of oil for a gallon of gas.
 
A lot of people are running opti-2 at 100 to1, I have only run it at 71 to 1 or 1.8 oz to a gallon . two different motors and both have run good.
 
alesterfeind said:
So, is the consensus that Opti-2 is recommended for our 2-stroke motors? I just ran across this thread, and I was surprised to see that it's such a small amount of oil for a gallon of gas.
Click to expand...
Check the date of the original post in this thread. 2009.

I've been running Opti-2 @100:1 for over five years. Never had a bearing or piston failure. I use this oil/ratio in my motorized bicycles, snow blowers, garden tillers and weed eater That should tell you something. I doubt that I'm an isolated case. But I'm just one guy with an opinion based on experience.

Tom
 
My question is WHY, do you want to run less lubrication? I once was
a Amzoil dealer.I also raced Karts.Amzoil came out with there 100 to 1
oil.

In racing kart engines they run 20 to 1 & if you try to go much above that
watch out (ask me why).Well I was scared to run 100 to 1 so I mixed it
50to 1.Guess what, the engine stuck after lap two.

Now ask your self why you want less lube in your engine?Is it cause you
want a cleaner burn?Well todays Synthetic oils are very clean at 32 to 1.
It is you call & engine.
Fly
 
Last edited:
Flyman said:
My question is WHY, do you want to run less lubrication? I once was
a Amzoil dealer.I also raced Karts.Amzoil came out with there 100 to 1
oil.

In racing kart engines they run 20 to 1 & if you try to go much above that
watch out (ask me why).Well I was scared to run 100 to 1 so I mixed it
50to 1.Guess what, the engine stuck after lap two.

Now ask your self why you want less lube in your engine?Is it cause you
want a cleaner burn?Well todays Synthetic oils are very clean at 32 to 1.
It is you call & engine.
Fly
Click to expand...
Because it isn't how much oil you use, it's about the lubricating ability of the oil.

Like has been posted in this thread many times; if you don't want to use it, don't. But I would think it would be difficult to argue with the success rate of those who do.

Tom
 
This is a crazy thread that refuses to die. As if all oils are the same. Obviously they aren't. Read the label from the manufacturer. If it says 50 to 1, then do that. If it says 100 to 1 then do that. How long do you imagine a company would stay in business if engines were blowing up? I've been using this forever it seems. I especially appreciate it in my chainsaws where I am right there by the exhaust. Burns clean. Enough said.
SB
 
silverbear said:
This is a crazy thread that refuses to die. As if all oils are the same. Obviously they aren't. Read the label from the manufacturer. If it says 50 to 1, then do that. If it says 100 to 1 then do that. How long do you imagine a company would stay in business if engines were blowing up? I've been using this forever it seems. I especially appreciate it in my chainsaws where I am right there by the exhaust. Burns clean. Enough said.
SB
Click to expand...

Couldn't have said it better myself...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top