Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Retmachinist, Jul 24, 2009.
Nothing to be concerned about IMHO, wont hurt a thing.
So, is the consensus that Opti-2 is recommended for our 2-stroke motors? I just ran across this thread, and I was surprised to see that it's such a small amount of oil for a gallon of gas.
A lot of people are running opti-2 at 100 to1, I have only run it at 71 to 1 or 1.8 oz to a gallon . two different motors and both have run good.
Check the date of the original post in this thread. 2009.
I've been running Opti-2 @100:1 for over five years. Never had a bearing or piston failure. I use this oil/ratio in my motorized bicycles, snow blowers, garden tillers and weed eater That should tell you something. I doubt that I'm an isolated case. But I'm just one guy with an opinion based on experience.
My question is WHY, do you want to run less lubrication? I once was
a Amzoil dealer.I also raced Karts.Amzoil came out with there 100 to 1
In racing kart engines they run 20 to 1 & if you try to go much above that
watch out (ask me why).Well I was scared to run 100 to 1 so I mixed it
50to 1.Guess what, the engine stuck after lap two.
Now ask your self why you want less lube in your engine?Is it cause you
want a cleaner burn?Well todays Synthetic oils are very clean at 32 to 1.
It is you call & engine.
Because it isn't how much oil you use, it's about the lubricating ability of the oil.
Like has been posted in this thread many times; if you don't want to use it, don't. But I would think it would be difficult to argue with the success rate of those who do.
This is a crazy thread that refuses to die. As if all oils are the same. Obviously they aren't. Read the label from the manufacturer. If it says 50 to 1, then do that. If it says 100 to 1 then do that. How long do you imagine a company would stay in business if engines were blowing up? I've been using this forever it seems. I especially appreciate it in my chainsaws where I am right there by the exhaust. Burns clean. Enough said.
Couldn't have said it better myself...
I agree 100%
prime example of this was an old Craftsman chainsaw I had years ago, it said specifically on the saw to mix 8oz of non detergent 30w oil per gallon of Regular gasoline, that saw was a monster, belched smoke that would kill all the skeeters in three to four surrounding counties and needed to tank refilled about every 4-5 minutes of cutting...
I personally think the super high grade modern superior chemically engineered oils like Opti2 and maybe a few others work so well in small 2 smokers at such ratios like 80-1-100-1 becuse the oils drop from the fuel easier and cling to the engines internals under higher heat conditions better and on a molecular level it seems that they just produce a much better and strong film of lubricant.
Im no scientist so I may be over my head with some of what Ive said here, but all I know is that, I run Opti2 at 100-1 and all my engines run great, yes Ive had some failures with engines but non that I would attribute to the oil or amount I use, I run all my engines the same way and after several thousand miles of hard riding I have no dou ts about Opti2 being able to provide what my engines need for lubrication.
Silverbear, I also agree cometely with what you have said here also.
Still no complaints from me either. The opti-2 has been fantastic. No signs of any abnormal wear, cool running, clean engine, very little smoke. Can't see any reason now why it would all of the sudden stop performing the way it has over the last 400 miles. Excellent stuff in my opinion.
Guy,s I could give a sh!t what you run or what you do.I just told you
about sticking a pistion on a racing kart engine, in just a few laps using
Amsoil 100-1 & even mixing it at 50-1.
I also ask what you thought you gained running less lubrication.No one
said anything about what you should or should not do.This form is to
share info & let the people reading it make up there on mind.
Like I said before it's your engine not mine.
Personally I think running 100:1 of any kind of oil will gain you nothing but premature failure in the long run. I don't think real longevity is a factor here as the handful of people I hear running this oil at that ratio don't tell you how many hours they run their engines in 5 years.
A 5 year old engine with 55 hrs. on it doesn't really prove much. Put 550 hrs on an engine at that ratio and I'll be impressed.
A true test of how great Opti-2 is, would be to run it in a CY-46 (GP 460) for any length of time @ 100:1 and get back to me when it blows (seizes).
Someone here....make a believer outta me. I would never run less than 50:1 in any 2-stroke and how many engine manufacturers would agree with me?
What are the benefits of Opti2 really? Cheaper? Better? I'll stick to Maxima oils thank you very much.
I race karts as well and one thing I have learned is that all oils are not created equal in what I have experienced on the track. I race 4 strokes and not 2 strokes, but there is no way I would run conventional oil in my crankcase. 14oz of Amsoil 5w30w has served me very well. My father n law however does run a vintage West Bend 2 cycle powered kart with a conventional oil mix of 16:1. It works out well for him, but I feel sorry for the poor fellow running behind him eating all that smoke and excess oil shooting out the header.
My point is run what works for you. My father n law could never be convinced to run anything other then 16:1 in that 2 cycle west bend because he gets the results he wants from using it and trust that mix. Same goes for the Opti-2 I run in my bike at 100:1. It performs to my satisfaction, is clean burning and has never given me a reason to doubt it. However...if one is not comfortable with the idea or has had a previous problem like you did with amsoil 100:1....then by all means I would say do not use it. I guess it all comes down to ones experience with a product and thus far I report to others that mine have been positive when asked about opti 100:1. If someone blew a piston on the stuff...then I want to hear that to.
Defiantly not all, but a lot of the engines being discussed here are 66cc china girls. I am not really sure if anyone has ever determined how many miles one should expect from one of these $100 engines? 100 hours or so may be the very best one should expect from a china girl...heck I don't know. However it would be quite sickening to only get 100 hours out of a Honda engine.
I used to rebuild a few K-Series Kohler engines for garden tractor restorations and general rule of thumb was around 800 hours in between rebuilds. So if you got more then that you was doing something well and if you had less...then it was time to find out what the guy getting all the hours out of his was doing.
So until the day we can determine a "standard" or expectation of what should be considered a good lifespan for a China Girl engine...it really is hard to judge. The best one can do in my opinion is find out what the high mileage guys are using and go with that. Easy to find guys using both high and low ratio mixes of synthetic and conventional oils getting plenty of good miles.
Personally I figure if I can get 2000 miles out of a $100 2 stroke engine and have to deal with very little smoke while racking up those miles...I will be quite satisfied.
I hear what yer saying ck70 and the fact that I don't even run china girls makes my point useless anyhow. The only 2-strokes I run as of late are CY 46cc chinese Zenoah clones.
The CY46 is recommended to run only 25:1 period. I have found this to be true as I was running a full blown CY46 at 32:1 and it didn't last very long at all.
When someone runs a CY46 hard for say 1 year using Opti2 @ 100:1 and it's still running.......get back to me!
( for the record my CY46's turn 18,000-22,000rpm maxed......seriously)
if you're afraid you'll blow your $80 engine by running a brand of oil at the ratio that a certain oil is itended for, then simply don't use it, those of us who know what the oil is designed for and have run for years on the stuff on a daily basis know it works and it does NOT seize engines or eat up bearings.
what does seize up engines is overheating and poor machine work, not to mention dirty hands and lack of cleaning the parts up properly before and during assembly.
I guess it's too easy to just blame the oil then come into a forum and shoot off at the mouth like you're some kind of authority on this oil because your uncle's brother's best friend's sister's 17 year old nephew blew an engine before and it just so happened to have this brand of oil in it when it happened.
I know less about engines than you guys, but my understanding is that some engines also have different requirements. I have a couple of old Villiars 2 strokes from somewhere between the 1930's to 1950's and also a model 1932 Sachs 2 stroke made in 1934. Well made engines. The old guy who sold the engines does restoration of old Cushmans, Whizzers and such and has an international reputation for his knowledge. Anyway he was adamant about not using either synthetics or opti 2 in the vintage engines. He said to use what they were designed for which was 30 weight motor oil at 16-1. His recommendation for best results was for Shell aircraft engine motor oil (Aeroshell) in 30 weight. He said this is what all of the guys racing small outboards used back when if they wanted to keep their engines from blowing up. Found some, but very expensive. I use that oil just for those old engines. Any other of my 2 stroke stuff gets opti-2. Anyway, he said the engines then were designed differently. Maybe he's all wrong and old school, but he knows more than I do. These old engines have a reputation of running forever, so that's what I'm counting on.
Regarding the opti 2 and longevity, I don't know and I don't race bikes, running them hard. However, when you cut up ten logger cords of firewood going at it full throttle all day long under heavy load, day after day after day, it has to be something like racing a bike engine at the max. My old Jonsered 621 keeps on cutting with lots of power and virtually no smoke. Tool rental places use it and they must have a reason. My suspicion is that we have a number of good options for keeping our engines well lubricated. I think its good to be both curious and cautious and then use your best judgement. Gentlemen, start your engines... vroom!
I am not familiar with the CY46's, but I have sure owned a bunch of Zenoahs. I fly giant scale RC airplanes and always liked running Lawn Boy Ashless oil in those at 32:1. The Lawn Boy ashless oil always seemed to burn fairly clean and not smoke out the guys in the pits while the plane is on the starter bench. I have also ran synthetic at 100:1 in a G23 as well without issue, but for example I am only spinning an 18X8 prop on a Zenoah G38 at around 8500 rpm and no where close to what you are spinning those CY46's up to on that bike. So I am not real certain how the Lawn Boy oil would hold up to those RPM's or even the synthetic as far as that goes. 22,000 rpm is really cranking and I doubt there are many in these forums cranking up those kind of rpm's. So what might perform great in an engine at lower rpm's may not perform at all in the same type engine spinning up to ballistic type rpm's.
My point being is that what may be good for one type engine running within a certain range and load might be disastrous in another type engine used for same application but at much different rpm's and load.
Kinda like saying that cheap 10-30w Wal-Mart oil works awesome in my roto-tiller...which it does, but I doubt my 4 cycle racing kart engine would hold up very long running that cheap stuff. In fact I am almost certain of it as I have seen it tried by others a few times with less then positive results. Not a good sound when you can hear a kart engine trying to sieze up due to improper lubrication.
Lord I can see why this thread has lasted so long.Everyone is a expert when it
comes to oil.Ok I don'y know anything, My son two IKF national Kart Racing
champion ships, I owned a Racing kart shop in Okla city Okla, was the # #2 leading
dealer for Yamaha Kart engines in the USA in 1978, & had the National Champion ships
at our track that same year.I could go on but I,m will not.
I can back up any of the info above.I don't no why I,m even replying to this post,
so I will just leave it at that.
The most expensive sound in powersports - Silence.
Sorry to hear you toasted an engine. I am sure the amsoil rep picked up the price of a new jug & piston right?