My bad, the way I read it I guess. The only thing I do on a new engine is vary the rpm and run it for short trips for a while. I don't like to run it hard to start, some however run theirs wot from the start.
100:1 Mix
- Thread starter Retmachinist
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- 100:1 amsoil motorized bicycle opti
Yea...I think you will find the recommended ratio just fine.
Try to load the engine often by going up slight grade hills. Pull in the clutch and idle/coast on downhill runs. Try to vary throttle position and only do WOT in short burst for first couple hundred miles. In my opinion..keeping a light load on the engine as often as possible will be most beneficial. Just the way I do it that seems to work out well for me and the china girls I have owned.
I remmember when ford cars were recommending 5w 20. Now it is 5w 30.
Is there anybody here with significant more miles than say 2000 on a china girl here?
While I will give opti it's well deserved respect. I have a motor here that is not a H.T. china. It has 20,000 miles on it now. Runs flawless. I do mean perfect! I ran Amsoil in it.
I did notice that the opti when I tried it was considerably thicker than the Ams I have been running.
My point is there is no China H.T. motors with 20k on them. I think I will make it to 40k easy peezy. Morini Baby...
So to summerize my impression is the vast amount of folks posting here prolly have 5k on a china at best?
Is there anybody here with significant more miles than say 2000 on a china girl here?
While I will give opti it's well deserved respect. I have a motor here that is not a H.T. china. It has 20,000 miles on it now. Runs flawless. I do mean perfect! I ran Amsoil in it.
I did notice that the opti when I tried it was considerably thicker than the Ams I have been running.
My point is there is no China H.T. motors with 20k on them. I think I will make it to 40k easy peezy. Morini Baby...
So to summerize my impression is the vast amount of folks posting here prolly have 5k on a china at best?
If that's the case...$90 for a replacement engine or rebuild every 5000 miles don't sound too bad to me. If I can get 20,000 miles of riding for $360 worth of HT engines, I am ALL in! Heck I have paid more for model aircraft engines that didn't last one afternoon of flying.LOL
Couldn't have said that better myself... I got a Morini too but that's a totally different subject and yeah... it should last at least 40K between rebuilds... Now if I get more than 1000 miles on an HT engine I'm more than happy.. anything above that is just the icing on the cake to me...
You guys amaze me with the high mileage engines. To think these little wonders could spin furiously for all those thousands (!) of miles.
I mixed a gallon of 25:1 gas (my instructions from Duane at Dax) and it didn't seem like much oil to run the thing 100+ miles. I doubt I'll ever run the thin mixes I'm reading about on here, but what do I know? (verry little)
I mixed a gallon of 25:1 gas (my instructions from Duane at Dax) and it didn't seem like much oil to run the thing 100+ miles. I doubt I'll ever run the thin mixes I'm reading about on here, but what do I know? (verry little)
The whole thing about the 100:1 mix is that the oil is thicker to begin with so it's almost like comparing gear oil to 10w30... 1 has more than enough substance to support that ratio where the other you could only safely run at 25:1 etc... This is very exagerated by the way, but most of you will get the idea... Mixing Opti2 or Amsoil at 20:1 or 25:1 can definitely be done, but you're just wasting it by doing so. Mixing your basic run of the mills 2 cycle oil or motor oil at 100:1, or even 50:1 for that matter and you're definitely asking for trouble. The oil needs to be formulated to run at these ratios but that doesn't mean you can add more oil to your mix, it mainly means not to try to use less oil in the mix...
Be fortunate enough to get a good engine to begin with, put a quality upper needle bearing in it, dont try to blow it up, tune the carb properly, run a quality oil in it at the recommended mix and chances are you'll get purdy darn good service out of it.
All of these engines are a bit of a crap shoot, but there are some that seem to be better put together than others.
So far Ive had 4 out of 6 engines hold up teally well, so I dont complain.
Ive got my best performance and smoothestrunning engines from Dax so far, but Ive heard there are others that have provided these same qualities.
I run Opti2 @ 100:1 in all of mine with excellent results, Im not an everyday rider, but when I ride I do long distances much of the time, 40 miles round trip isn't uncommon, I have heads on my engines that do allow them to run cooler and I honestly think if you run them hard for long distances this is a big plus.
Peace, map
All of these engines are a bit of a crap shoot, but there are some that seem to be better put together than others.
So far Ive had 4 out of 6 engines hold up teally well, so I dont complain.
Ive got my best performance and smoothestrunning engines from Dax so far, but Ive heard there are others that have provided these same qualities.
I run Opti2 @ 100:1 in all of mine with excellent results, Im not an everyday rider, but when I ride I do long distances much of the time, 40 miles round trip isn't uncommon, I have heads on my engines that do allow them to run cooler and I honestly think if you run them hard for long distances this is a big plus.
Peace, map
Ok so I went thru my first tank of opti 2 and pulled the head to inspect the piston ( I heard how it is suppose to look shiny and new) and the piston and combustion area have a red sticky coating on them. Any conclusion of why? This was a brand new top end I am breaking in on opti...
Red and sticky sounds like the stuff they coat certain parts in to either keep from rusting or in the case of aluminum to keep from oxidizing during oversea shipping or time sitting on a shelf. Not saying that is the case here as you would think that stuff would burn off if it was happened to be used, but just sounds strange when you say red and sticky because that sounds nothing like anything I have seen from running opti-2.
My combustion area is not red and sticky, but more like a clean looking tan color sort of similar to what my spark plug looks like. No built up black goo, carbon or white hot spots. Just a nice subtle tan and sparkling clean looking cylinder. I have had the head off two of my engines that were both run on opti-2 and they both looked like very "Happy" clean burning little engines on the inside with no visable signs of wear like scoring or hot running.
My combustion area is not red and sticky, but more like a clean looking tan color sort of similar to what my spark plug looks like. No built up black goo, carbon or white hot spots. Just a nice subtle tan and sparkling clean looking cylinder. I have had the head off two of my engines that were both run on opti-2 and they both looked like very "Happy" clean burning little engines on the inside with no visable signs of wear like scoring or hot running.
Well kinda redish looking, I'll have to get a picture. The only thing I can think of is the old oil in the bottom end that is flushing out
I can only suggest that thorough cleaning of the assembly oil might be in order for all new HT engines. So assuming you are running Opti2 at 100:1 ratio do you think that the deposits are anything other than residual oil? What is the dye color of Opti2? You aren't running leaded 110 aviation fuel?
It's not assembly oil, as it was only a new top end and it was thoroughly cleaned after the port work I did. There was no oil on the piston or new cylinder
There was a thread on this odd red color a while back and there was proof offered by one member that in different parts of the country the fuel has different additives to adjust for local climate/conditions. One of those additives was reported responsible for the red color seen by some members.
Most Opti-2 users say they see a brown color on pistons and plugs. I've been running Opti for a long time and my plugs and piston crowns are shades of grey.
Fuel additives might be the culprit in this case. Just a theory that I happen to agree with.
Tom
Most Opti-2 users say they see a brown color on pistons and plugs. I've been running Opti for a long time and my plugs and piston crowns are shades of grey.
Fuel additives might be the culprit in this case. Just a theory that I happen to agree with.
Tom
Yes I did assemble with 2 stroke oil.
And yes possibly a fuel additive here in Phoenix 2door, good conclusion
My piston tops and combustion chamber ares runs at a medium to sorta dark brown color, I just run 87 octane unleaded fuel and I run just slightly on the rich side since i generally ride for long distances at close to, or at WOT, I like the tad bit extra fuel and oil for a little extra cooling at the upper rpms.
I've always had a bit of a sticky residue in my exhaust ports from running Opti2, not thick and gunky just a thin tacky residue in the exhaust port.
map
I've always had a bit of a sticky residue in my exhaust ports from running Opti2, not thick and gunky just a thin tacky residue in the exhaust port.
map
So, is the consensus that Opti-2 is recommended for our 2-stroke motors? I just ran across this thread, and I was surprised to see that it's such a small amount of oil for a gallon of gas.