INCREDIBLE!!!
Did you fabricate that motor yourself ? Or is it one you can buy?
what did you do to your motorized bicycle today?
- Thread starter Skarrd
- Start date
Did you fabricate that motor yourself ? Or is it one you can buy?
Hooray, I got around to turning my pile of bike parts back into a bike. I hammered that Dax tension strap back into shape, replaced the studs and washers at the bottom with hex-head screws, nuts, and a lockwasher and nylock nut on each side. I put on some new "comfort pedals". I have these on the other motor assisted bicycle and they are nice for sneakers or boots. Not the best thing when wet, but I try to avoid wet weather anyway. $5 pair at Niagaracycle.com
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Here are a couple wheels for you.
Alex rim, Wheelmaster built bolt on freewheel hub. I just got one of these for a bike. It's nice for classic stuff.
$27
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...-125-silver-alloy-b-o-5-7-sp-36h-ss14g-spokes
$40, Alex rim, 12-G stainless spokes 36h bolt on wheel, for 5/6 speed (shouldn't have to spread your frame much if any)
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...5-2-125-alloy-silver-5-6-sp-12g-ss-spokes-36h
I've run 3 speed freewheels on generic multi-speed hubs before. You can use them on BMX (singlespeed) hubs, or multi-speed hubs, as long as the axle spacing and wheel dish are correct or compensated.
Here: $10 for one, and free shipping, cheaper by the dozen!
http://www.sourcingmap.com/bicycle-scooter-sprocket-wheel-speed-freewheel-repair-part-p-268417.html
Note: if your axle wasn't severely bent, and you didn't ride hundreds of miles on it that way, the races should be fine. You can get another axle for around $10 at BMX or bike shops, or off junk bikes.
Alex rim, Wheelmaster built bolt on freewheel hub. I just got one of these for a bike. It's nice for classic stuff.
$27
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...-125-silver-alloy-b-o-5-7-sp-36h-ss14g-spokes
$40, Alex rim, 12-G stainless spokes 36h bolt on wheel, for 5/6 speed (shouldn't have to spread your frame much if any)
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...5-2-125-alloy-silver-5-6-sp-12g-ss-spokes-36h
I've run 3 speed freewheels on generic multi-speed hubs before. You can use them on BMX (singlespeed) hubs, or multi-speed hubs, as long as the axle spacing and wheel dish are correct or compensated.
Here: $10 for one, and free shipping, cheaper by the dozen!
http://www.sourcingmap.com/bicycle-scooter-sprocket-wheel-speed-freewheel-repair-part-p-268417.html
Note: if your axle wasn't severely bent, and you didn't ride hundreds of miles on it that way, the races should be fine. You can get another axle for around $10 at BMX or bike shops, or off junk bikes.
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In the last week I have put different wheels, Tires and heavy duty thorn resistant tubes on the Kulana, also put a new rear sprocket I drilled out for the stock coupler mount and was able to get things adjusted soem that my KMC415H chain has correct tension and the idler tensioner could be eliminated completely, I went up to a 36T in place of the 34T that was on the other rear wheel, cruise speed is still a nice 42MPH at the 7940RPM range and I stiil have the same 45MPH top speed on a slight decline.
Today, I put different bars on the bike and shortened the brake cables and also added a set of cushy foam grips which sure feel nice, bike rides like a dream with the balloon Tires VS the 26x1.75 tires I had on it before, now I need to get the RT carb put on and tuned, and I really need to get my exhaust built, what I have on it now is crazy loud, it runs great but it is seriously screaming down the road at 40+mph with the wide open pipe.
Map
Today, I put different bars on the bike and shortened the brake cables and also added a set of cushy foam grips which sure feel nice, bike rides like a dream with the balloon Tires VS the 26x1.75 tires I had on it before, now I need to get the RT carb put on and tuned, and I really need to get my exhaust built, what I have on it now is crazy loud, it runs great but it is seriously screaming down the road at 40+mph with the wide open pipe.
Map
Attachments
Sat on a bucket next to my new chopper and stared at it, taking in the feel of it and starting that big list in my head on what I want versus what I can achieve/afford.
Waiting for a shiny new motor in the mail.
Took it for a pedal for some bonding time before undertaking the big new fit-out.
Waiting for a shiny new motor in the mail.
Took it for a pedal for some bonding time before undertaking the big new fit-out.
Apart from my bucket time, I rode my first build, (beach cruiser) to work. I have to go past an airport, so planes taking off next to me gives me that top-gun moment. Currently going quite well after a recent rear-bearing explosion called for a quick job involving grease and new bearings. Rolls for ages now.
I picked up a new back rim/set of tires last night. Rebuilt my coaster hub, laced and tru'd it this morning.
I finished this.
I think I have lost my mind. Can't stop playing with these things.
Will finish the Cheapo Mountain bike today as well.
Cant wait to start on a 4 stroker but need advise. Will have to check out all the builds on this site.
It is a sickness...
I think I have lost my mind. Can't stop playing with these things.
Will finish the Cheapo Mountain bike today as well.
Cant wait to start on a 4 stroker but need advise. Will have to check out all the builds on this site.
It is a sickness...
yeah, good price on those clairmonts right now - bought three to do - so far 3 of the 6 fenders have broken & been repaired
Sorry to hear that. Mine were fine I think. Have to double check as I knew I did not want them. They are yours if you want them. Just come get or pay for ship.
the bracket is what snaps off even after putting spacers in the front brakes to keep the right arm from pushing on the fender - just typical chinese crap, but they look good and are on sale cheap : ) We're paying $149 at walmart for them.
I make really strong brackets & rubber mount so fender can sway left/right a bit.
I make really strong brackets & rubber mount so fender can sway left/right a bit.
Fixed the air leak on my intake (new stud) took it for a ride and the plug was dripping wet which was great news because I gained torque but lost top end. Swapped out the jet and then threw the drive chain at about 17 mph. My ninja like skills held me from face planting over the bars lol.
Sorry for the late response it was super nice and informative answer.Here are a couple wheels for you.
Alex rim, Wheelmaster built bolt on freewheel hub. I just got one of these for a bike. It's nice for classic stuff.
$27
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...-125-silver-alloy-b-o-5-7-sp-36h-ss14g-spokes
$40, Alex rim, 12-G stainless spokes 36h bolt on wheel, for 5/6 speed (shouldn't have to spread your frame much if any)
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...5-2-125-alloy-silver-5-6-sp-12g-ss-spokes-36h
I've run 3 speed freewheels on generic multi-speed hubs before. You can use them on BMX (singlespeed) hubs, or multi-speed hubs, as long as the axle spacing and wheel dish are correct or compensated.
Here: $10 for one, and free shipping, cheaper by the dozen!
http://www.sourcingmap.com/bicycle-scooter-sprocket-wheel-speed-freewheel-repair-part-p-268417.html
Note: if your axle wasn't severely bent, and you didn't ride hundreds of miles on it that way, the races should be fine. You can get another axle for around $10 at BMX or bike shops, or off junk bikes.
On the multi sprocket wheels where the freewheel sprocket screws on there looks to be a long spacer that screws onto the axle. Can this be just cut to length after putting it all back together to fit the rear frame? Probably not, way to simple lol.
Thanks again (x1000) for the links, that's a great place to buy most any part I need as my local stores are, well snobs. My buddy took his trek in for a new fork and they charged him 25 bucks and even cut the stem. I went and got the same fork for an old non trek bike and it cost me 40 bucks and they wouldn't cut it for that price. Had I known what they charged my buddy I wouldn't have supported them. Bummer as I like to support locals.
Dan.
Big day in the workshop. Removed my rear wheel with damaged Shimano hub and took it to my bikeshop for repair. Removed the Bontrager tire that split when i hit a bump. Yanked the 2-stroke engine and reinstalled my old reliable HuaSheng. It should be fun running a HS with a 3-speed hub. Need to install a jackshaft. Will fit a motorized bicycle rear tire for more traction for trail riding and pulling my trailer. I;m enjoying motorized bicycles again after a stint with mopeds.
i confirmed a "new find" piston that will work in the 66cc stroke and with a reed valve only.
THE PLUSES
- Less friction/reduction of cylinder wall wear by 35% or Greater.
- 1mm thick chrome pated piston rings instead of 2mm thick non plated.
- reed windows in piston for reed valved engine only*
- wrist pin bearing stays put no "walk
CAN ONLY BE USED ON THE ENGINES WITH THE "SHORTER CON ROD" 110mm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/70cc-PISTON...her_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item2a30296f1f&vxp=mtr
THE PLUSES
- Less friction/reduction of cylinder wall wear by 35% or Greater.
- 1mm thick chrome pated piston rings instead of 2mm thick non plated.
- reed windows in piston for reed valved engine only*
- wrist pin bearing stays put no "walk
CAN ONLY BE USED ON THE ENGINES WITH THE "SHORTER CON ROD" 110mm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/70cc-PISTON...her_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item2a30296f1f&vxp=mtr
Did the usual weekend make sure everything is still tight check. CHECK. I haven't experienced anything coming loose so far as I have read in some other peoples posts.
Replaced my entire rear wheel assembly because the tire I had on developed a wobble. Damn, that there stock rear sprocket assembly is a pain in the a$$.
Pretty sure I got a head/gasket leak as there is oil residue around the fin on the top of the jug. Been trying to tighten it slowly over the last couple of weeks but, it doesn't seem to be working. Gonna have to try the Flat glass/sand paper method to see if I can get it to seat better. ****ty cast parts.
Running a grubbee skyhawk GT-2A bone stock except for the expansion chamber with muffler from BB. Lots more bottom end torque with this muffler set-up.
Cruise through town with a little off-roadin thrown in.
PEACE
Replaced my entire rear wheel assembly because the tire I had on developed a wobble. Damn, that there stock rear sprocket assembly is a pain in the a$$.
Pretty sure I got a head/gasket leak as there is oil residue around the fin on the top of the jug. Been trying to tighten it slowly over the last couple of weeks but, it doesn't seem to be working. Gonna have to try the Flat glass/sand paper method to see if I can get it to seat better. ****ty cast parts.
Running a grubbee skyhawk GT-2A bone stock except for the expansion chamber with muffler from BB. Lots more bottom end torque with this muffler set-up.
Cruise through town with a little off-roadin thrown in.
PEACE
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Went on a 14 mile ride, to a nearby very small town where I go to pay my water bill, nice ride.
I put my Dax through a good test today on that ride and found out what the bike will run WOT which is where I kept it for 90+% of the way there and back, my Dad wanted to cruise over there with me so he jumped on his Yamaha vStar 1100 and followed me, my clutch is slipping only after 120miles on this engine, I guess its a bit powerful for those soft rubber pucks, anyway my bike is pulling my 215lbs at 45-46MPH on the flat with no head wind and 48MPH @8240RPM on a decline.
These numbers are taken from my Dads bike speedo and my Tach I have on the bike, My speedo isn't consistent and normally reads 45MPH WOT, on the way back I was bucking a little wind and still maintained a fairly steady 42MPH on the Flat.
Carb is acting up a bit so I'll be getting my Dax RT Carb on it and tuned before to long.
I need a shift kit on this bike some day so I can have a nice 40mph cruise speed without reving this engine at 8000+RPMs constantly.
pulled the clutch cover earlier and pulled all the pucks out, dang near had to chisel them out, pretty junky looking actually, so I'll be making me a new set out of some qulity material soon.
Map
I put my Dax through a good test today on that ride and found out what the bike will run WOT which is where I kept it for 90+% of the way there and back, my Dad wanted to cruise over there with me so he jumped on his Yamaha vStar 1100 and followed me, my clutch is slipping only after 120miles on this engine, I guess its a bit powerful for those soft rubber pucks, anyway my bike is pulling my 215lbs at 45-46MPH on the flat with no head wind and 48MPH @8240RPM on a decline.
These numbers are taken from my Dads bike speedo and my Tach I have on the bike, My speedo isn't consistent and normally reads 45MPH WOT, on the way back I was bucking a little wind and still maintained a fairly steady 42MPH on the Flat.
Carb is acting up a bit so I'll be getting my Dax RT Carb on it and tuned before to long.
I need a shift kit on this bike some day so I can have a nice 40mph cruise speed without reving this engine at 8000+RPMs constantly.
pulled the clutch cover earlier and pulled all the pucks out, dang near had to chisel them out, pretty junky looking actually, so I'll be making me a new set out of some qulity material soon.
Map
What spacing is on your bike, now? 120? 126?
Yes, the spacer on the right is just a steel bushing, pinched between the right cone/nut and outer locknut. If you're shooting for 120mm spacing, just remove both spacers, and put the shorter spacer (and maybe a few washers before it, to clear the FW) on the right side. You may have to re-dish the wheel.
You can replace it with a nut of the same threading as the axle, or use tight-fitting washers. You could saw/grind the spacer, but it's easier just to use others.
For the 3 speed freewheel, you can remove that spacer and replace with some washers. You won't be able to use a Freewheel Remover on those. You have to use the "destruction method" of removal if you ever want it off. (simply, tap the lockring loose and remove all the guts, clamp FW body in vise, turn wheel).
The 3spd fw is the same width as many heavy duty BMX 1 spd freewheels.
Note: If you severely re-dish the wheel to compensate for moving the FW far right, you may have to un-lace and re-lace the wheel, by swapping the spokes from drive side to non drive side. Easy, really, and the wheel will look sharp.
Yes, the spacer on the right is just a steel bushing, pinched between the right cone/nut and outer locknut. If you're shooting for 120mm spacing, just remove both spacers, and put the shorter spacer (and maybe a few washers before it, to clear the FW) on the right side. You may have to re-dish the wheel.
You can replace it with a nut of the same threading as the axle, or use tight-fitting washers. You could saw/grind the spacer, but it's easier just to use others.
For the 3 speed freewheel, you can remove that spacer and replace with some washers. You won't be able to use a Freewheel Remover on those. You have to use the "destruction method" of removal if you ever want it off. (simply, tap the lockring loose and remove all the guts, clamp FW body in vise, turn wheel).
The 3spd fw is the same width as many heavy duty BMX 1 spd freewheels.
Note: If you severely re-dish the wheel to compensate for moving the FW far right, you may have to un-lace and re-lace the wheel, by swapping the spokes from drive side to non drive side. Easy, really, and the wheel will look sharp.
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Finally got my carb adjusted back to the 'normal' altitude of the OKC area......lol! If I ever take it back to the high mountains, I will have a different carb for it. The CNS just wasn't a happy camper up there.
I also went to Midwest Hose and got some more high temp silicone hose to cover my exhaust joints on the SBP expansion chamber. I was able to use longer pieces that were able to better secure the connections. It's now tight enough that I may be able to delete the springs that hold the pipe to the engine.... To do anything more substantial will require the 'investment' in a welder.
I also went to Midwest Hose and got some more high temp silicone hose to cover my exhaust joints on the SBP expansion chamber. I was able to use longer pieces that were able to better secure the connections. It's now tight enough that I may be able to delete the springs that hold the pipe to the engine.... To do anything more substantial will require the 'investment' in a welder.
Today I received a Bike Mount Holder Waterproof Case Bag for my cell phone to see the traveling speed, I went to try it suddenly fell into a hole and my cell came flying through the air and almost step over with the the bike,Thank God nothing happened to the cell was protected with Case Bag,permanently solved it with 2 screws,second attempt was well attached but when traveling 29 mph run out of gas,I store it because had no gas mixture.