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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by deacon, Jan 15, 2008.
That skull looks familiar....
Wow, cool maniac57 I just noticed yours. Did it come in black or is that an angle of the photo that makes it look black / Have you a larger photo?
My wife bought mine for my birthday in July of 2011 from Advanced Auto I almost pooped myself when I found out what she paid for 2 of them.
So WHEN i GOT MY NEW MOTOR I just swap out the cover.... as well as my trusty ole 48cc cover on the other side ..
I might've mentioned this before, but here it is again.
For years, I had struggled and wiggled past the access "arm" at the parking ramp's access. I even ran into the pillar with my motorcycle helmet. A couple years ago, I bought an access card which raises the arm and allows me to drive up the ramp. So I used to wrestle my card out, trigger the access sensor, then wrestle it back into my pocket.
Now I leave the card in my wallet, and my wallet in my left pants pocket. The sensor post is on a curb. Now I drive up to the sensor, place my foot on the curb, then the card in the wallet in my pocket triggers the sensor.
Passive access is great. That way, I'll never misplace my card, unless I misplace my wallet. No wrestling, no fumbling.
I read the other one as well!
Skulls are kinda a thing with me. Every single motorized vehicle I have ever owned had a skull on it somewhere...
I found a skull ring in the very first dirt track car I ever raced and it became my lucky charm when I won my very first heat. Had that ring for 30 years until a house fire destroyed it. Thats when I started putting skulls on all my motor toys.
And yeah, The two metal skull emblems I bought at autozone were over $20 bucks.
Still, it was worth it. Mine are chrome like yours, it just looks black at the angle of the pic.I had one on each side but the sticky stuff wore out on the mag side and one fell off. I still have it and I might just drill some holes to screw mount them both again someday.
Here are some more pics of my Pig
Here is another bike I used to own. Different skull.
If your fuel valve doesn't end up in the right spot after being tightened down in the gas tank, you can get 10mm shims used on RC cars in order to adjust its final position and still use the fiber washer.. Hit up the local hobby shop and ask for 3Racing part number 3RAC-SW10, Yokomo ZC-S100S, or Tamiyha 53588. Or order online.
I installed my 4-liter peanut tank on my rear rack. The rack broke, so while replacing it, I decided to hide the tank.
All I did was slit the bottom of a gym bag, slip it over the tank and voila!
Gym bag on a bicycle.
Id like to see a pic of that tank with and with out the gym bag
I bought two new tires today I got those half street tire, half knobby and hate them even pumped up to the max they are very sloppy and my lean/ dodge bumps has suffered immensely. I gotta get myself some real street tires, these junk ones are Kendra cheapo's from Benny's . I figured the softer feeling rubber would give me a smoother ride. Boy was I wrong these things are all over the road.
I will give them a few tanks and see if they improve
When breaking chain on the bench but checking length on the bike, use a zip tie around the link you want to remove so you don't lose your place and make it too short (or long).
High quality, cloth covered 5mm fuel line is available from your local air-cooled VW parts house.
Bike and gymn bag
Nice cover 5-7!
It would look more legit if you had some bungees or rope "holding" it in place.
Now you got me thinking of a large, 1.5 gallon or so tank on the rear rack of my bike with your stealth cover idea over it.
Thanks. I'll be using my 10-foot tow rope to secure the gymn bag.
I removed the 212cc HF engine off my race bike and installed an electric motor to please my neighbors........we're celebrating it with a huge party.........15 kegs and 4 live bands! Come join the fun down in San Diego today!!!
Want to shim your HT/CG's clutch shaft?
Say that your clutch (or cable) breaks. Now you have direct drive, and you're miles from home.
To get home under power, drop your bike stand, making sure the back tire is off ground. Start engine. Release bike stand, but DON'T jump on bike. Engine will bog but still run. push bike as fast as you can.....then jump on!
When you have to stop, jump off bike and lift rear tire off ground. When time to go, drop bike and push as fast as you can. Jump on again.
This will get you home.
Ask me how I know this.
It took me awhile, but I read all 80 pages. Lots of good advice(and some bad. lol )
It seems like an obvious thing to me, but after seeing two bikes with the same problem i have to add this tip.
Keep your wiring as far away from the exhaust as you can.
I watched a guy work on his bike for two days trying to find his "air leak". his bike just didn't have the power it should. Long story short he took my advice and the bike runs like new again.
Also if you have rust in your fuel tank you can do what i did to an old Garden tiller as a temporary fix until you fix the rust problem.
Place a neodymium magnet near the fuel outlet. any metal on the way out of the tank will be pulled to the magnet. (old computer hard drives are a good source for the magnets.)
I bought a camera the other day because I have a handful of mods and tricks that might be useful. But I've found that this cheap camera takes awful photos.
Oh, well........... Guess I'd better get a better camera.
Still, a couple of the photos I took are good enough. So I'll post them and I'll post some others when I can get decent pictures together.
The first one is my front motor mount. The downtube is wrapped in some neoprene-like material. Over that, top and bottom, is some 1/2 by 1/8 steel. The muffler clamps clamp over this. I think that I've got any stresses involved spread over that down tube quite well. You need to drill through the 'crowns' of the muffler clamps in order to put a 1/2 x 1/8 steel bridge (actually I think mine is more like 3/4 x 1/8) between them. Another bridge between the two motor studs of the same material. Bolt these two bridges together, and you've got a motor mount. WARNING; don't make my mistake. This needs to be bolted by more than one bolt. Otherwise the engine will tip. How could I be so dumb? I got mine solid by doing a bit of wedging. And I'll know better on the next one I make. Those bridges will likely be made out of 1x1/8 and bolted with three of four nuts and bolts.
The next photo is my rear cargo rack. It's a very ordinary rear rack of the $25 or so variety, painted to match the bike. I added a rectangular cargo platform made out of 1/2 x 1/8 steel strips, bolted through the rack. Also bolt on a couple of loops of lashing strap material. Add a couple of lashing straps, through these loops, and you have a cargo platform that'll hold a good sized duffel bag without the danger of it's sliding over and then down into the wheel.
That's it for now, but I'll be back.
Here's a couple more.....
Red Permatex seems to make a fine gasket material. You do not want to trust the gaskets that come with china girl engines. The elements'll get in sooner or later.
Something else that I've found useful; put the chain tensioner on the other chain. The photos are probably good enough to see it clearly. You make your engine drive chain just long enough that you can tension it just right by moving the axle back and forth in the dropouts. You make the pedal chain long enough to give you the space you need and then you take up that slack with the tensioner. You can see that it mounts upside down in this case. Now the only time my tensioner undergoes any stress at all is while braking with the coaster brake. And I'm sure that it's more than stout enough for that task.
Is there a menu that lets you choose the picture definition on the camera? That might help.