Wow Goat. Isn't a 5 too hot? I was going to suggest a B6ES or B7ES
NGK descriptions
B- Thread Diameter = 14mm
C- Hex Size = 16mm (5/8
P- Projected Insulator
R- Resistor Type
6- Heat Rating (Lower the # the hotter the rating)
E- Thread Reach = 19mm (3/4
S- Standard 2.5mm Center Electrode
Been liking the NGK BP7ES because of the protruding electrode. The P with NGK brand stands for a Projected Insulator electrode at cylinder . Something I actually did not know until working In that small engine shop this year was...
''note mine clears the piston but I have a temperature gauge sensor washer shimming it out too.'' Imagine it would still clear regardless but somebody ought to take caution?
They were telling me to put projected style plugs in the two stroke engines. It was said to me that this style of projected electrode in general stays cleaner in a two stroke without out fowling and makes for better self cleaning. My own verdict is up on plugs with me ATM.
Still have my said NGK BP7ES in it from late this summer.. Have not replaced it and it has not fowled yet. I doubt I will have to go hotter than a six heat range in this P model and will still throw one in when it finally gets a little colder out.
Funny thing played with my new Direct Hit attachment and my plug at 20 tho gap instead of the previous 30 tho had with the old one. Ran my plug without it for a weak redline was smooth as butter.. Then with gap unchanged put the new one on.
Edit for more time to ride and observe....
Decided to advance my timing about 2 degrees. I think 20 tho is too small of a gap as it retards the timing ''gives that effect''. Gonna revisit a 25 tho gap and finesse the timing.
This is dangerous territory as advancing the timing will burn a two stroke up quick! It is winter time here so I got some forgiveness. Still took me by surprise .. I had the holidays mess up my testing schedule. Went ahead and ordered two of these was free shipping with black Friday .
http://www.pulstarpulseplugs.com/product.aspx?zpid=3631
Put about 300 miles on my last clutch adjustment and tried something new. It was a pain in the butt to make all my homemade washer shims to my intended thickness on a piece of glass and sand paper but it is the strongest smoothest consistent transition yet. These said shims were for the dowel pins and bolt thread bottom. Just took what have been learning hands on and applied it.
Had a evil little crumb of dirt in my idle jet circuit. Cleaned it out good with carb spray . Put my previous late summer jet back in too.
Switched it from the previous (//// ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) to the deformed washer at bolt bottom like before '' ( deformed washer '' then / ( ) ( ) ( ) ) ( ) ) to bolt head then retimed the bolts with a washer at the bottom where it meets the clutch hub threads with homemade shims.
Had some chatter that the clutch would slip at High rmp a ''tiny'' bit until this new stack. My true stall is about and has been around on all my stacks around or close to 8000 rpm ...... With this one as before it will lock up and gingerly idle around 10 mph until cracking the throttle a little then it will progress and lock up again every where to redline.. Pretty Kewl.
Done with this clutch... did all I think I can do. Feel like I have gone pretty full circle with it...Was frugal about it and sought out to learn it is all. Need to say tho this clutch has not been bad at all once I figured out where I was going with it. When I was off the map oh boy was I ...
Daddy is getting a couple of model Hole Shots like your racing with Easy. Next month. My job is currently holding up.
Finally got the dough for 3 more hubs from you folks too. Just gotta catch Dean and see what he wants for them? Got a ridiculous hot rod electric to eventually set up on the horizon planned for one of them.
The L/C should materialize full swing about January.. Open to any of your tuning expertise! As this one is supposed to be my money shot !!