Motorized Bicycle OVERSIZED TUBING solved

[lennyharp]

The main thing is to not have a pressure point that will effectively cut the aluminium tube with the harder steel bolt. Aluminium does not fare well against vibration and metal fatigue. The steel u-bolt will cut thru the aluminium tube after a time of hard use. Rubber is not enough protection. datz510 uses steel tubing to spread the stress and protect the inferior Al tubing. My preference is to just use a more resilient tube like Steel 4130 Chromium Molybdenum tubing for the frame. This is what racing bicycles, cars, karts and motorcycles as well as aircraft have used for a long time. Buy a frame that gives you more chance to last a long time, if you want to safely use the bike much.

 

[commuter]

the frame i decided to motorize has a 2 1/4" down tube, a 1 1/2" seattube, and a lil different geometery so I sourced out some 6061 block from work to machine mounts almost exactly like these.

Hopefully nobody from my work reads this,

I am going to try to find time during my shift tonite to start on them but if i cant them i am actually going to have to go in early tomorrow and make them on my own time . . .

I will post pics of progress as it goes along.

depending on how they turn out, the time it takes to machine them, and wether or not i will be able to keep "sourcing out" this expensive material there is a possibility of offering these to members on here if anyone would be interested.

 

[Andyinchville1]

Hi,

Nice mounts Commuter!....Pssst (whispering)...How much for them? ;-)

Andrew

PS - Something I would think about in the event of mass production would be a setup that allows a the blocks to "move" or be adjusted and then bolted firmly in place since not all bikes have the same angles between the down tube and the seat post.... hard to explain what I mean but if you can look at Easy Riders mounting of the Morini Engine (his first build) I think you will understand what I mean)....Of course if a person bought an angle meter from Lowes or similar place they could tell you the relative angles and the mounting blocks could be manufactured to fit?

 

[commuter]

the mounts pictured are not mine, they were pictured earlier in this thread and im just basically copying them.

i started on the mounts last night and if i didnt wait until my memory stick in the cam had over 1500 pics on it they would have been uploaded off the cam by now, will post a pic of progress shortly

its really a pretty simple design to fab up, take blocks of alum, bore a holes in them, drill holes thru one side into the tube bores for motor mount bolts, all the way thru on the sides for clamping bolts, mill the motor sides to rquired angles, and then cut the blocks in half leaving two halves. all you have to do after that is countersink the motor side holes on the inside of the tube bores to keep the bolt heads out of the tube bores.

right now im just trying to get a set done without raising too many eyebrows at work. once i get my set done and all the lil issues figured out in machining them, i will be able to make sets pretty quick.

i had already thought about the different tube sizes and frame angles so if i do start offering to make these for others it would probably be on a custom order basis as i would have to know the tube sizes and mount angles needed.

 

[Andyinchville1]

HI Commuter,

Thanks for the follow-up....Please keep us posted....as I'm sure there are probably more interested parties out there as well....Also looking forward to the pics when you get a chance!

Andrew

 

[MB-Monkey]

Just to add a little info here. I took the thick silver adapter plate and a muffler clamp down to my local metal shop and they cut a piece of 3" 3\16 drop steel for me then knocked the holes from the adapter and the muffler clamp into the steel i brought it back and it fit perfectly just make sure the adapter holes are on the bottom of the plate and the clamp holes at the top to leave enough room for the clamp nutz.

 

[Train]

Took some of your guys' suggestions for my oversized frame and had a friend cut a plate out with some holes for a muffler clamp and the front motor mount. Came out nice...haven't finished the bike yet, so we'll see how it holds up.

 

[MB-Monkey]

very nice plate very similar to the one i had made

 

[2door]

OVERSIZED TUBING solved

This isn't something for the timid but for those with some metal working skills this front engine mount is a nice departure from drilling holes in the frame or muffler clamps.
The saddle part is a half section of 1&1/4" pipe with the upright fabricated from 1/4" steel plate. I used stainless but mild steel will do the job too.
I'll let the photos speak for themselves and if you have questions just ask.
Tom

 

[MB-Monkey]

Re: Schwinn Jaguar/ Cruiser Front Mount

thats a great looking mount. would it work on other models?

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Re: Schwinn Jaguar/ Cruiser Front Mount

That IS a great looking mount! Very clean, small & simple... it's not some big ugly over engineered monstrosity.
Good job! I'm sure you could sell a few of those here!

 

[2door]

Re: Schwinn Jaguar/ Cruiser Front Mount

thats a great looking mount. would it work on other models?

Monk,
I've been told that several Schwinns use the same frame as the Jaguar. I'm almost certain the Point Beach is identical. The design could be used for any large downtube or curved cruiser style frame.

Venice,
The amount of labor involved would make these cost prohibitive. I used a Bridgeport mill, a lathe and tig welder. About 6 hours total labor so I wouldn't even consider building them in mass. Thanks for the kind words though.
Tom

 

[Large Filipino]

I like that,2Door for it still allows the original front mount to hug a tube. When that front mount hugs the tube it gives better side to side strength I believe.

 

[Dave31]

I have no idea how to move a thread but I goofed and should have posted mine here. So here's a link to it.
http://motorbicycling.com/f6/schwinn-jaguar-cruiser-front-mount-6427.html

Tom

I merged the the threads 4 ya 2door, should be on page 5 post #49

 

[2door]

I merged the the threads 4 ya 2door, should be on page 5 post #49

Thank you, Fair,
Helps blend the threads.
Tom

 

[Mopedamauter79]

What if a piece of rubber was placed between the modded plate and a second steel plate for both the base and top connections to the bike frame. Would it limit the amount of vibration caused by the motor? Or would be so negligible that it would be a waste of time?

Do you have a larger pic of this mount so I can get a better look at it ? Also do the nuts on the original engine studs dig into the frame ? I'm not sure if they would. I'm guess your mount would prevent the rocking back and forth of the engine and stop any digging in ?

 

[Ghost0]

You can also check out one of these to solve the problem.
http://motorbicycling.com/f23/sbp-universal-front-mount-chat-6882.html

 

[ebmvegan]

Do you have a larger pic of this mount so I can get a better look at it ? Also do the nuts on the original engine studs dig into the frame ? I'm not sure if they would. I'm guess your mount would prevent the rocking back and forth of the engine and stop any digging in ?

Sorry, I do not. I haven't needed it yet.

 

[Earthman]

I’m installing an “80cc” 2-cycle engine on a 24” Huffy frame. There isn’t much room for the engine so I shortened the stock rear motor mount by ½ inch and squashed the over sized down tube a bit in a vice so the front engine mount would fit the deformed tube (see pics). This allowed me to mount the engine lower in the frame and clear the top tube. It was easy to squash the down tube and I don’t think I weakened it much.

 

[Beetle Juice]

Guys when I ask a question you hit hard and fast with a reply that is what I like I even seen a mountain bike in which I thought that it would be impossible to mount a motor on in the pics you sent me. With any of these modified mount has anyone every had any trouble? The bikes in China must all have small tubing. Once again Beetle Juice Happy