Motorized Bicycle OVERSIZED TUBING solved

Barely and Mike,
Here's a link to a source for the bushings I use, Rod End Bushing Kit - 1/2 Inch and a photo of how they work on a car.
If you have a hot rod shop in town, someone who sells street rod parts they should have them. As I said they are hard as rocks, no give so they're not like using a soft mount, which I would never do. I don't use the steel inserts for my motor mounts. I use a short stub of 3/4" round stock drilled and tapped to use the decorative aluminum end cap. Hope this helps.
Tom
 

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OVERSIZED TUBING solved

Looks like there are a lot of good ideas in this thread and I thought I'd throw mine in. I mounted the Grubee to the seat post tube with the stock mount. The tube is 1" and all I had to do was cut some 1/16" rubber to use as a shim. I made a front mount by welding together some scrap 3/16" steel into a "T" bracket. Then I used a 1" Three Piece Clamp to go around the frame tube. Three piece clamps can be found in motorcycle parts catalogs in sizes from 1" through 1-1/4" that I know of so you should be able to find one to suit your needs.
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Kojack,
I like the simplicity of your design. If it were mine I'd replace the wingnut with a good nyloc type, but that's just me. Otherwise you have a solid design that should work well for you.
Tom
 
Don't worry, that wingnut was just for mockup. I have a stainless locknut I'll use on the final setup. BTW 2Door, I really like your mount using the rubber bushings but didn't see it until after I came up with this one. Nougat, the bolt is a 1/2" so I don't think shearing should be a problem. I think most of the load will be from the engine pulling sideways. Time will tell. Also, although I have a pretty good weld fillet on it, I may also add a couple of gussets to the "T".
 
( 2door ) , that mount is sweet , in a weld on application i like yours best .
but as a clamp on unit , i think adding a bottom piece of tubing , like ( dats510 ) did on his mount would be a big improvement .
( dats 510 ) your mount is awsome , i had that exact same idea after crushing my first piece of tube with a muffler clamp , but you beat me to it .

you really need to be careful with muffler clamps , the sharp edges of the clamps can cut the tube , and the bolt squishes and deforms the tube .

i like you guyzezez ideas with using a 1/2 cuts of thicker pieces of pipe to protect the tube .

2 thumbs up , on both those ideas
 
My mount total parts at home depot was $3.89. I bought a 3/4 by 4" black iron nipple and 2 - 2 inch by 3" long u bolts. I bought the nipple in the original mount then ubolted the nipple top and bottom to my front tube. Worked great. I probably would have ordered an adapter from one of the vendors here, but I was impatient.
 
Sick Bike Parts has a bracket for the front mount to take big tubes. I got one for my Schwinn Mesa (1 3/4" front tube)when I installed their Shift Kit. The bracket will take a wide range of front tube diameters. Just tell them your tube size.

Jim
 
2door said:
Back on page 5 of this thread I posted a photo of a clamp on front mount for a Schwinn Jaguar. Here's one of the same design but a welded mount instead of clamped. Sorry no photos of it painted. The bushing is polyurethane automotive suspension part. Very very firm, not rubber. The aluminum cap was just something I did on a lathe.
Tom
Click to expand...

Lots of very excellant ideas. But I really like this one. Hmmmm...

Miguel
 
Re: OVERSIZED TUBING solved

[very good that your support, eliminates engine vibrations. I would like to ask how the support placed on the other side of the engine? excuse my English
 
i think redb66 posted these clamps a while back. I saw them on my first visit to the forum. made these mounts.
 

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and another..unfortunately I took the picture vertically, and even re orienting it in iphoto first didnt help allow it to post. turn your head sideways I suppose. ha, sorry. anyway the mount is 1/4 plate from my friends off road shop. we cut and welded it. problem is for this you need a drill press, a welder, chop saw, grinder, etc...you get the picture. not a regular-tools-average-garage deal.
 

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2door said:
Back on page 5 of this thread I posted a photo of a clamp on front mount for a Schwinn Jaguar. Here's one of the same design but a welded mount instead of clamped. Sorry no photos of it painted. The bushing is polyurethane automotive suspension part. Very very firm, not rubber. The aluminum cap was just something I did on a lathe.
Tom
Click to expand...

Hey Tom, Not only have I been looking for a '32 ford, but DANG I like that mount. I used to work on a class 8 race team back in the day, and before everything switched to solid junctions, these were used at roll cage intersections, particularly noticeable at the top of the cab for the "down-bars".
Seeing this mount I had a V-8 moment. and not the engine kind. "why didnt I do that?!" comes to mind. It looks to me to be the best solution, and I wonder: How is the vibration dampning? I am imagining slightly less fuel foaming? maybe reduced bar buzz? I'm building a race bike and we are really pushing the limits on this china girl trying for 3.5 hp, and in riding pistonbikes Rob's #1 racer, one thought is BAR VIBRATION. let me know your opinion!
thanks,

jake
 
Dogtown,

I doubt that my mount does anything to help with the inherent vibrations produced from a 2 stroke, single cylinder engine. It's just simple and easily duplicated if you have the tools. The plate welded to the downtube has a 3/4" steel pin that fits snugly inside the urethane bushing. The pin is drilled and tapped to hold the aluminum cap. The cap is there for looks and to hold the front of the engine down firmly on the mount.

Keep in mind that the bushing is 'NOT RUBBER'. It is a very hard urethane piece made for automotive suspension use. It does nothing in the way of vibration absorption.
The engine is essentially mounted solid to the frame which is how we suggest they be installed.
Good luck with your project.
Tom
 

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2door said:
Dogtown,

I doubt that my mount does anything to help with the inherent vibrations produced from a 2 stroke, single cylinder engine. It's just simple and easily duplicated if you have the tools. The plate welded to the downtube has a 3/4" steel pin that fits snugly inside the urethane bushing. The pin is drilled and tapped to hold the aluminum cap. The cap is there for looks and to hold the front of the engine down firmly on the mount.

Keep in mind that the bushing is 'NOT RUBBER'. It is a very hard urethane piece made for automotive suspension use. It does nothing in the way of vibration absorption.
The engine is essentially mounted solid to the frame which is how we suggest they be installed.
Good luck with your project.
Tom
Click to expand...
thanks man, I appreciate it. and Yeah, I was aware of the stiffness of the urethane from my automotive experience, and only mentioned it as its softer than steel and may perhaps do a teeeny bit. Anyway, rock on!
 
2Door,that is an awesome mount,very clean,urethane would absorb a little.
next project may get something along the same line.
make up mounts,install onto engine,mock up in frame,tack into place,remove engine from mounts and finish welding.
i may try to find a way to clean my first one up,as i drilled it,then didnt like the way it shifted then welded the plate to the frame.

there are many great innovations for mounting these engines in this thread,another must read for the beginners.
beginner to the bike scene,not to fabricating things i need.
 
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