Motorized Bicycle OVERSIZED TUBING solved
- Thread starter wayde
- Start date
I had to weld it to the rear engine plate due to tire clearance issues on my particular install, but whoever is doing the installation could easily slot the U bolt mounting holes to allow these to simply bolt on to the back plate, especially if the back plate is made a little wider in the affected areas.
What if a piece of rubber was placed between the modded plate and a second steel plate for both the base and top connections to the bike frame. Would it limit the amount of vibration caused by the motor? Or would be so negligible that it would be a waste of time?
Attachments
Being A Cnc Machinest Comes In Handy Some Time,,, I Didnt Make These ... I Found The Pics Some Where Else,, But I Plan On Making Mine Jus Like Them .....i Though They Were Very Kool ..
Oh Man! I have a big Dax on a Schwinn Point Beach and it keeps breaking the mounts and the motor wants to lean out the left side of the frame. I'm loosing it trying to find a way to mount the motor better. I have a bench grinder and the time to make those. Are there some for sale anywhere? I can't risk breaking the brand new motor or bike.
My china engine I'm pretty sure the piston bushing went for it was making a racket and busted my front mount it was vibrating so hard man those bolts were $2.50 a piece.
When I get around to it I'll take it apart. But I'm going with mounting the front mount the way it was meant to mount and extend out the back mount by getting longer studs and putting a few washers between the inside clamp and where it normally sits by the engine.
I thing the clamps are meant to go around the frame for strength. Just getting a plate I think puts too much stress on them M6 bolts/studs.
When I get around to it I'll take it apart. But I'm going with mounting the front mount the way it was meant to mount and extend out the back mount by getting longer studs and putting a few washers between the inside clamp and where it normally sits by the engine.
I thing the clamps are meant to go around the frame for strength. Just getting a plate I think puts too much stress on them M6 bolts/studs.
very nice mounts, look like they should be part of a upgrade package for us oversized tubing guys
I will have my drill press back monday, see the tavern (and justice for all). Ive had it! I'm going to take alum. billet and make my own. I think drilling a hole in an alum. frame in the down tube is just asking for it. Stainless allen bolts counter sunk then form fitted to the frame. Both mounts. I have 20-30 hours in something that should have taken a few minutes. If that don't do it I will have alum. plates welded to the motor it's self. I have to take it apart, no big deal. I can take a GSXR 1100 apart and rebuild the tranny I can sure handle this. 
This is MY ride. These other bikes are just inventory. It's a passion, a way of life. I eat,sleep,dream,bikes. All kinds. The bike told me I can't do it Love it!
This is MY ride. These other bikes are just inventory. It's a passion, a way of life. I eat,sleep,dream,bikes. All kinds. The bike told me I can't do it Love it!This mount looks great, if you are in a hurry I have another solution. On my first build I mounted the engine to high in the frame (the frame tube was about 2" wide. I drilled through the frame and had to use a longer bolt to align with the holes in the bottom of the engine. This lasted about 3 days before it broke. I cut a peice of tubing from an old seat post, cut it to length and rounded the bottom with my grinder. I took the bike to a muffler shop, I had them weld the tube to the frame and the flate plate (with the two holes) welded to the top of the tube. Then all I had to do was screw the two bolts into the engine. A little paint and it looks great. They charged me $10.00 for the welding.
Go to install pages last page down at the bottom and you will see how to do the front mount so it will last. It requires drilling. If you do not want to drill, then you will have to find another method of mounting. So far, I have only drilled. I do have some clam adapters that some have been using and like them, but I have never tried them so I can not say . Enjoy the ride..
These ch can be drilled out at the stud holes on the eng block, I use 5/16, or 8mm grade eight now.
thanks for the pic...im building a gary fisher aluminum...ive bought everthing from pillow block housing...which seem good....to clam shell brackets...hangers...building steel brackets...what kind of material are you using to protect the frame...?i went to leather...went away from rubber...if you get this message please respond...i think you are on the right track...just no for aluminum but everthing...thanks...dennisBe careful using straight U bolts on an aluminum frame... they will eventually tear through the frame with the vibration.
I have a design here that will distribute the loading over a larger surface area, preventing metal fatigue in these newer (thinner and lightweight) aluminum frames:
I'll post some photos of the finished product in a few minutes. Just finished them about 30 minutes ago.
did you try this...im building my second bike and im thinking the same for the next motor mounts...materialscraps.com have different rubbers that work...rubber with cloth inserts will work great or vintron...a rubber that gas and solvent doesnt effect...let me know...dennis hofferber
i fabbed a clamp style on mine too it looks pretty clean im going to read the picture posting info tommarrow id like to add to the ideas im going to pass out !! peace!!
thats what i ended up having to do ronnie only mine arent as thick that mount looks beefy clean too NICE!!!!!