Bee's Knee's Manufacturing. The thought intrigues me to no end.
I was thinking that a piece of tubing with an inside diameter to match outside diameter of the tubing that your clamping to would work. Length of the outside tubing as you need it to be. Cut the tubing that's being used as the clamp in half length wise so both halves are the equal size. A thin blade would help so not to much metal is removed.
Weld each half of the split collars to the end of the tubing halves. You can then weld any mounting attachment you want to the tubing. To make an adjustable mount I would use one of the nuts that they use to join two lengths of threaded steel rod together. I've forgotten what they are called but I get them at Home Depot and I'm sure any good hardware store or fastener supply would have them world wide.
To mount the nut I would use lengths of strap steel the right width so they can be welded to the nut on either side. To mount the strap steel to the tubing I usually use a hole saw the size of the tubing I'm welding it to, to cut a hole in the steel as close as possible to one end. Then I cut the end of the steel off across the middle of the hole if it is still there and weld it to the half piece of tubing. Do this before you well the strap steel to the nut. Lesson learned the hard way.
A bolt with enough thread to make the needed adjustments can be threaded into the nut and cut off where needed and a block of steel with the correct size of hole can be welded onto the bolt.
Sounds like a lot of work and it is but when you look at the cost of the premade mounts I can do a lot of work.
Steve.
Sounds like an excellent method to me
Bee's Knees Manufacturing, - I like the sound of that. Could indeed be a winner Steve.
There's a scrap steel specialist going by the name of Iron Maiden in Auckland (the Big Smoke) who is really well organised and sells used and offcut steel stock way more cheaply than the new steel stockists. They will also courier whatever you want in the quantity you want at a good price too.
I can and do buy the odd length of steel from the engineer chaps at the end of the road if I'm stuck with finding something the right size, BUT their prices are much more expensive per metre and if I was to ask them to order in anything the cartage costs aren't cheap. As much as I like to support the local businesses in our little town when it comes to buying steel I really can't afford to.
Sidecar and Sociable suspension? I was planning on leaving the old rickshaw chassis with its standard rigidly supported wheel to keep things simple. It's a 28inch wheel mounted on a truly massive bearing supported hub and stub axle. I was planning on using the gents heavyweight bicycle frame in very much its standard form too with unsprung strutted front forks. Once I'm sure of the geometry and the handling I will most probably devise a sprung front fork, but it won't be a priority. My old rickshaw looks to have had a long and productive life before it came to me so I don't plan on messing with its success too much
A sprung bodyshell and or sprung seating? I think that would be really sensible. The body that's on it at the moment is rigidly mounted and actually quite heavy so the jury is still out regarding its ultimate fate. I had wondered about modifying it to become a cyclecar body and building something new for the Sociable; - anyway we shall see.
The first official roadtest? Well I must admit I'm as much in the dark as all of you are with regard to differences in handling characteristics. My instincts say it should be a little better than a sidecar outfit, but I guess we shall all find out soon enough.