Sportsman 200

I saw this in person today and it is clean. A very cool set up. I wish I had the formal training of a full fledged engineer like Pat. I am just a humble garage hack compared to him.
 
Yes Pat you do great work! My fuel tank & oil tank & sprocket adapter are great!
I dont understand about all these sprockets n fingz. But the setup looks great :-)
 
Now that the chains are hooked up I think it's pretty clear what they all do. Think of the bottom bracket shaft as a stationary shaft, which it is when not pedaling. The reduction hub, the assembly with the two sprockets on the left side of the BB, has two internal bearings and spins freely on the BB shaft when driven by the engine. When you pedal the BB shaft can turn freely of the reduction hub. It may look complicated at first, but is actually quite simple. I rode the bike around under pedal power today and it functioned perfectly. Nice and smooth. The two disc clutch has no drag at all on the pedal system.


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr

I wanted a vintage looking BTR style drive system and now I have it!


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
 
Hey Bro,

It looks great! Can't wait to take it for a spin. It looks like all you need are controls and shes ready to go. Hopefully it will all run as a good as it looks, because it looks excellent!
 
WOW! I am impressed again. I had an idea similar to this for my last build but I gave up on it because I have no knowledge about machining. I need to start running Ideas past you. Maybe we could collaborate on something some time. Being a artist I have all these great Ideas that I don't know how to turn in to reality. I am truly jealous of you skills and you never cease to impress me. Keep up the good work.
 
Thanks for the comments, guys. Lurker, I know what you mean about ideas floating around inside your head needing to get out and become reality. Your builds are beautiful, by the way, and I am watching your V-twin build closely. As I establish more contacts I am finding ways to bring my ideas to reality. One idea needing escape to reality is taking my new reduction hub and stuffing a planetary gear system into it. I want a lever mounted to the left side of the gas tank that I can pull back to a direct drive, and push forward for an under drive ratio. I'll figure it out eventually, or get my brother to figure it out for me. He comes up with some good ideas every so often.
 
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Pat, I picked up a Honda clone motor last month with the idea of building my own frame (I'm a frame builder), but looks as if I'm better off waiting for your setup. Dynamite!!!

--RnB
 
Sori Codfreak, & Slinkyburd, I doo nott want too hijak Snorkpet's thred, so we betterr get bak on topick.
Reegards,
Brendarr777
 
agk said:
Several years ago we experimented with different length manifolds ranging from 2" to about 8". The manifolds were curved and made of steel. We used thick wall tubing so we could get a tight radius on the bend.

All the manifolds worked well. The longer one produced stronger low to mid range power. They would all be cold to the touch after running the engine. The longer manifolds would be dripping with condensation.

At some point we switched to aluminum curved manifolds which we currently have listed on our website. These manifolds have a thin wall and need to be braced to avoid damage from vibration.

Using the rubber hose to create a manifold is great for vibration. We use thick radiator hose and one hose with multiple bends provides optional angles for various manifolds. With this method it's best to keep the manifold short. If you use a long section of hose you will have to make a brace for the carburetor side. You will also have to insert a coil spring in the hose otherwise the vacuum from the piston will collapse the hose.
Click to expand...

Hi Shane,
When you were experimenting with the longer steel manifolds did you insulate the carb from heat by placing a non-metal spacer between the carb and manifold? If, as you say, they were cold to the touch, I would guess a complete steel manifold would be fine. The ones you sell as I recall do not have any heat insulating spacer.
 
The stock 6.5hp engine uses a black plastic insulator between the carb and cylinder head. When you use our manifold ( 2 1/2" in length ) or a custom manifold you do not need the insulator. The longer manifold puts enough distance between the carb and cylinder head. Our manifolds get cold to the touch which is great! A cold air/fuel charge entering the combustion chamber will create more HP!

sportscarpat said:
Hi Shane,
When you were experimenting with the longer steel manifolds did you insulate the carb from heat by placing a non-metal spacer between the carb and manifold? If, as you say, they were cold to the touch, I would guess a complete steel manifold would be fine. The ones you sell as I recall do not have any heat insulating spacer.
Click to expand...
 
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