Sportsman 200

Pat, what car is under the car cover? A Z? Corvette? It has a nice shape. I'm a car guy too. The 200 is really looking nice. You are going to love the sound that engine makes. How stiff is your engine mount from side to side? It has to be like a rock.
 
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Velodrome said:
UNREAL! DANG PAT! If.. IF you do a production run of these Id sell about 1/4 of my gun colection to get one ( you have no idea how much that pains me but I'd do it :( ) Be nice to have the option to tip the head of the motor back twoard the seat for a slightly more "elderly" look.
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No, never ever give up firearms. Morally wrong.
 
cobrafreak said:
Pat, what car is under the car cover? A Z? Corvette? It has a nice shape. I'm a car guy too. The 200 is really looking nice. You are going to love the sound that engine makes. How stiff is your engine mount from side to side? It has to be like a rock.
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Hi John,
The engine mount is built from 3/16" plate and ties across the width of the bottom bracket and half way around the down tube. It's not going anywhere. Oh, the car under the cover is my GT40. SportsCarPat! Still want a Cobra, too. I like my Fords.


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
 
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cobrafreak said:
Did you build the GT40 or was it a turn key?
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Turn key minus. I did the drive train. 302 with stack fuel injection, custom air box, custom rear subframe, ZF transaxle running inverted like the original cars. It's a CAV GT40 replica with stainless monoque chassis. I'll try to get some pictures of it posted.
 
Pat,

wow, I was checking out those fotos on your flikr, man the 200 is looking super sweet. i am curious how you will mount your carb and if you will go with one of the mikuni 22mm like cobra did. I have that carb as well, and i think a few others do too. My current mount uses a flex hose so it sticks out a bit as you can see in my pics on my build thread. what are you thinking?
 
tomgndallas said:
Pat,

wow, I was checking out those fotos on your flikr, man the 200 is looking super sweet. i am curious how you will mount your carb and if you will go with one of the mikuni 22mm like cobra did. I have that carb as well, and i think a few others do too. My current mount uses a flex hose so it sticks out a bit as you can see in my pics on my build thread. what are you thinking?
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I have the 22 Mikuni and bought the carb manifold kit from AGK. Was thinking about doing the same things as John and Jeff did with the formed 90 degree hose, but it may just be a starting point. My two biggests hurtles left are the intake and exhaust and they need to look right. I have spare down tubes kicking around so will probably use one to make the exhaust pipe, although I may just make a real mean and nasty shorty pipe to be loud as **** and blow flames like the real boardies! Oh, three hurtles. I forgot the BB mounted hub carrier for the primary/secondary reduction.
 
Pat, I have experienced heavy duty vapor lock just by sitting my bike in the sun for an hour with the 22 Mikuni mounted. If you put this carb behind the engine you will see vapor lock often.
 
I don't know. This happened to me two times. I shut the engine down after riding on a hot day and I tried to restart it an hour later while the bike was in the hot sun. The only way I could start it in both cases was to open the throttle and blow hard through the air filter. Now two times is hardly at all and no big deal for me. I have my fins on the flywheel keeping the carb constantly cold to the touch. If the carb is behind the engine directly I see this happening a lot.
 
cobrafreak said:
Pat, I have experienced heavy duty vapor lock just by sitting my bike in the sun for an hour with the 22 Mikuni mounted. If you put this carb behind the engine you will see vapor lock often.
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I don't want to reinvent the wheel, at least in this area. Sounds like rubber mounting the carb will keep it cool and reduce vibration. My Morini uses a complete rubber moulded intake so it must be a good idea.
 
Several years ago we experimented with different length manifolds ranging from 2" to about 8". The manifolds were curved and made of steel. We used thick wall tubing so we could get a tight radius on the bend.

All the manifolds worked well. The longer one produced stronger low to mid range power. They would all be cold to the touch after running the engine. The longer manifolds would be dripping with condensation.

At some point we switched to aluminum curved manifolds which we currently have listed on our website. These manifolds have a thin wall and need to be braced to avoid damage from vibration.

Using the rubber hose to create a manifold is great for vibration. We use thick radiator hose and one hose with multiple bends provides optional angles for various manifolds. With this method it's best to keep the manifold short. If you use a long section of hose you will have to make a brace for the carburetor side. You will also have to insert a coil spring in the hose otherwise the vacuum from the piston will collapse the hose.
 
Here are the first pictures of the custom drive system I have been working on. The reduction hub, as I have been calling it, carries a 38t #35 chain sprocket for the primary drive and a secondary 13t #41 chain sprocket for the secondary. This will feed back to a 52t rear sprocket giving me like a 12.66:1 final drive ratio. The reduction hub carries two bearings and spins freely on the bottom bracket shaft. This will allow the pedals to remain stationary while under motor power, and also allow me to pedal the bike when the motor is shut down. Cool, huh?


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr

Here is how it looks on the bike. The Bully twin disc clutch has a 12t sprocket. I carefully measured all the offsets while the frame was in the frame jig and thankfully I got it right the first time! All chains and sprockets align perfectly.


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr

A bigger picture of the whole bike. I need to find some time to mount up the drive chains.


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr

This build is slowly coming together and I put a great deal of effort into this design. I plan to use the same pedal crank assembly on my Morini powered bike as well. That bike will run without the reduction hub as I need a small pedal sprocket with wide offset on the crank arms.


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr

Pedal side sprocket rides on a machined aluminum hub adapter that is keyed to the BB shaft allowing the sprocket to be easily aligned with the rear pedal sprocket, then firmly locked into position.


Sportsman 200 by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
 
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WOW that is sweet, kinda reminds me of something from pre 1920's

Sportscarpat, aka The Innovator !!!!

Was sitting here in this Tower Crane 320 feet 97.536 meters in the air high above the city of Richmond, Virginia, just hanging out up here setting pre-cast concrete panels, sometimes I'm hooked up to a piece of precast for hours, anyway I realized I could use my dumbphone to see what's new in the forum.

Pat, you never cease to amaze us mb-er's with your talents and quality products cudos.

Peace Bro, Crazy Horse.
 
Pat...that is what I versioned you were going to have but had no idea how nice it would turn out. That was so well thought out and with the adjustment and sprocket options it's unlimited. All I can say is WOW.
 
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I have been getting a bit fidgety, waiting to see your reduction jackshaft. I am amazed. I knew you would do it after you showing me an old picture of a boardtrack drivetrain.

Your engineering skills are remarkable
 
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