I saw this in person today and it is clean. A very cool set up. I wish I had the formal training of a full fledged engineer like Pat. I am just a humble garage hack compared to him.
Do you mean Twitchy Stinkybird?or get my brother to figure it out for me. He comes up with some good ideas every so often.
Hi Shane,Several years ago we experimented with different length manifolds ranging from 2" to about 8". The manifolds were curved and made of steel. We used thick wall tubing so we could get a tight radius on the bend.
All the manifolds worked well. The longer one produced stronger low to mid range power. They would all be cold to the touch after running the engine. The longer manifolds would be dripping with condensation.
At some point we switched to aluminum curved manifolds which we currently have listed on our website. These manifolds have a thin wall and need to be braced to avoid damage from vibration.
Using the rubber hose to create a manifold is great for vibration. We use thick radiator hose and one hose with multiple bends provides optional angles for various manifolds. With this method it's best to keep the manifold short. If you use a long section of hose you will have to make a brace for the carburetor side. You will also have to insert a coil spring in the hose otherwise the vacuum from the piston will collapse the hose.
Alright, sticking my neck out here as I hardly know you! He had two left, now he is out of stock. I just bought his last two.Heat insulator:
carburetor intake gasket insulator pit bike crf50 sdg | eBay
and yes, these things work, like magic actually.
Hi Shane,
When you were experimenting with the longer steel manifolds did you insulate the carb from heat by placing a non-metal spacer between the carb and manifold? If, as you say, they were cold to the touch, I would guess a complete steel manifold would be fine. The ones you sell as I recall do not have any heat insulating spacer.