No Spark!

Discussion in '2 Stroke Bicycle Engines & Kits' started by PatTheThird, Apr 24, 2011.

  1. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    zptLadies and gentlemen,

    I have a Grubee gt5 SkyHawk 66CC kit. Engine runs good and starts immediately when it starts at all. After a particularly windy rain storm my bike wouldnt start no matter what. I replaced the plug and cap since they were included in the kit. When that didnt work i opened the magneto cover. There was a little moisture in there so i was sure that was the problem. After drying it out and reassembly i was off and running. I moved it a little further under my porch and figured i was done with that issue. The next time it rained (it was more like a drizzle) the bike didnt even get moist but the bike wouldnt start. I assumed moisture was forming on the magneto wires and was dripping down through the sheilding and collecting in the magneto box. I went to TrackAuto and bought some gasket paper and some awesome 3M gasket sealant.
    I pulled the cover off and everythin apeared dry. I removed the sparker loop and dried it all with a hair drier, made a new gasket and resealed the box BONE dry. The next dry day i take the bike out. Nothing. I take it apart and put it back together. Nothing. I come inside and spend 2 hours on motorbicycling.com, went back out to check the connections on the loop. They looked fine so defeated i put it all back together and BOOM! It runs. I ride it all day and park it. I slept the sleep of the content. Next time i come out, NO RUN. For anyone who thinks i might be mistaking this for a fuel problem, please dont reply with fuel related suggestions. The issue is definatelly in the spark system. I can make it run every time. I just have to remove and reinstall the spark loop.
    The last time i went out it stopped running mid ride for the first time. Luckily i had a 10mm and a #2 phillips and the skill gained from performing this opperation so many times.
    I do notice that the loop looks a lil closer to the spinning magnet on the bottom. Is it possible the dude tapping these holes didnt eat his Wheaties?
    Now that i take a pic for y'all, it looks fine. BTW, i have the blue and black wires hooked up and the white capped. I dont use a kill switch.
     

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  2. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    I just put it back together and got nothing. When it runs, it starts right up with no choke and kicks butt. I have ordered a new everything. CDI, spark loop and magnet. I'm really wishing i did 4 stroke right now.
     
  3. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    I leave my bike out all the time and have never had the problems you are experiencing. Looks like you have the Chinese junk plug and plug cap, if so...If it was me they get trashed. Second I feel moisture is getting into the magneto, if so, a dose of WD-40 may cure that. If the WD-40 takes care of that I would clean the field with something like alcohol (not the drinking kind..LOL), let dry and coat the wire fields with the appropriate item.
     
  4. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    Can you thread the wire out of the CDI just like the cap? If so, what type of wire did you use? Are there different wire types?
     
  5. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    i'm going outside with the WD-40.

    " let dry and coat the wire fields with the appropriate item."

    Im confused by this statement. Please axcuse my ignorance.
     
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    The wire is held into the CDI by a screw. Turn counter clockwise to remove. I use a "Wire" like the old engines. Any lawnmower can set you up. You want to replace the wire, plug boot and the plug.
     
  7. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    I have sealed the wire conduit type material that carries the wires into the case with 3M sealant and heat shrinked the top. Also cut a new fat gasket and sealed it up. Plus it ran last night and has been dry weather since.
    Please, someone drop the precious knowledge on me that will make my bicycle run. LOL, bicycle run.
     
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    First of all WD-40 is NOT a lubricant, it is a moisture displacement product. They make a product that you can dip tools into to make a insulator shield, this can be painted on.

    http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation
     
  9. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    Do you think its worth while soldering the blue and black wires? I have a old lawn boy behind my shed. I would just as soon buy a new one though. Do you think an automotive store will have what i need?
     
  10. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    Thanks for your replies by the way. What a wonderful resource!
     
  11. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    I solder ALL wires. First I cut off the white wire and trash it. I trash the blue and black wire and re-solder with a good grade of wire. Any automotive store has a spool of about 20 feet..about $2.00. (16 to 18G) I use the same color so I only have to buy one. Just remember which is what. I normally strip a small section from the ground.
     
    #11 Al.Fisherman, Apr 24, 2011
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2011
  12. rohmell

    rohmell Active Member

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    I always replace the magneto wires with longer ones. A good source for the wire is a computer power cord. Strip off the outer covering and use the wires that are inside.
    You will need two, and if you are lucky, one cord will give you black, white and green, and the other cord will give you blue, brown and yellowish green.
    Take the black and white from one and the blue from the other and you have the original wire colors.
     
  13. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    You just replace them to where they connect with thr CDI wires?
     
  14. PatTheThird

    PatTheThird New Member

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    I cut off the bullet connectors and soldered the wires. I also resoldered the wire to tab on the magneto loop. Now it runs. I tested it with the old plug and wire, they were fine. I did upgrade to an automotive wire and cap and an autolite plug. Who knows :) I believe there could have been a cold joint on those tabs.
    Thanks all.
     
  15. Fallforeme

    Fallforeme New Member

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    Hello just joined this site. Im not getting any spark put a new cdi and magneto.
     
  16. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman New Member

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    If you have a kill switch wired in...let's start by disconnecting it. Then we can go on from there. Start your own post, you will get better responses.
     
  17. gubba

    gubba New Member

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    i have had cases where the magneto itself is loose or simi-tight
    the black wire is the GROUND wire
    they screw it onto the mag frame thereby letting the block be the ground
    only the blue wire needs to be soldered on, just leave it alone....i unsolder the white wire and throw it away
    pull the black wire out of the mag chamber.
    plug blue to bue and black to black like normal to the coil
    find a good ground for the black wire from the mag anywhere on the bike
    change your plug to a NGKB5HS or NGKB6HS, set to 30

    hope this helps

    stay dry
    gubba
     
    #17 gubba, Aug 14, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2011
  18. KCvale

    KCvale Well-Known Member

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    One thing sure jumped out at me with this picture Pat.

    [​IMG]

    Your white aux power wire is right up against the case.
    That thing can arc even on just a humid day. Just get your side cutters and cut that white wire off at the magneto tab.

    Like rohmell I replace all the wires.

    The magneto needs a good motor ground so the spark plug has ground and yes, the ground tab can be a crappy factory solder job on rare occasions, like a motor built first thing in the morning after Saki Sunday party night ;-}
     
  19. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    Check that magneto(6volt output) wire is NOT touching frame. Grounding this wire will kill spark. ( found out after chasing intermittent fault for three days...)
     

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