Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip
Was readin the 12.5" OCC chopper strech and el Diablo Guapo had this rag joint centering tool .....KOOL..............Curt
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=52259
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=52259
Davezilla
New Member
Just get an automotive fuel filter like that... They do sell some of the anodized ones at most the major auto parts stores like Pep Boys, O'Reiley's and AutoZone... I use the clear screen type filters they sell at Advance auto in the small engine section on mine since I can see thru the filter real easy and it uses a rather large fine mesh screen to do the filtering and they can be back flushed every so often if ya see too many particles gathering up on the screens.
Some of those anodized fuel filters use the old style sintered brass filters that used to go in the carb inlet on the older type GM 2 and 4 barrel carbs, those type flow really well while still being able to filter out most the nasties you'll find in today's gasoline, the sintered brass filter elements can also be reused by dipping them in carb dip like Berryman B9 Chem dip, then rinse off with a blast of carb and choke spray, so if ya buy 2 of them you can run one while dipping the other.
Some of those anodized fuel filters use the old style sintered brass filters that used to go in the carb inlet on the older type GM 2 and 4 barrel carbs, those type flow really well while still being able to filter out most the nasties you'll find in today's gasoline, the sintered brass filter elements can also be reused by dipping them in carb dip like Berryman B9 Chem dip, then rinse off with a blast of carb and choke spray, so if ya buy 2 of them you can run one while dipping the other.
bluegoatwoods
Active Member
Want to double the range of your gasoline bike? I've stumbled on an easy way of doing it.
It would be simple to feed both tanks into the intake using a "T" fitting.
I didn't set that second tank up there for this reason, actually. My problem was that the tank in front sits so close to the engine that I can't find a reasonable way of routing the fuel line without it being closer to the engine than I'm comfortable with.
So I set that second tank up there thinking that I'm probably going to need to mount the tank over the rear wheel on this build.
Then it became clear to me just what a second tank could do for range. Though I don't suppose I need that extra range.
But some folks might.
It would be simple to feed both tanks into the intake using a "T" fitting.
I didn't set that second tank up there for this reason, actually. My problem was that the tank in front sits so close to the engine that I can't find a reasonable way of routing the fuel line without it being closer to the engine than I'm comfortable with.
So I set that second tank up there thinking that I'm probably going to need to mount the tank over the rear wheel on this build.
Then it became clear to me just what a second tank could do for range. Though I don't suppose I need that extra range.
But some folks might.
danodude75
New Member
Just a little cleaning tip for getting grease off of your hands if you don't have any goop/orange stuff or handcleaner. Take some vegetable oil and rub it into your hands like you would hand cleaner or soap... followed by dish soap. Rinse. Works way better than just dish soap alone.
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to link to a post in a thread I started since I though this might help someone that needs to change the crank seals on their engine.
I made me a little simple crude tool that makes the job a breeze and will prevent damage to the seals as they're installed.
Here is link to thread, just scroll down to the 3rd post on the first page and you will see how I install the seals and the simple tool I use.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=602776#post602776
I made me a little simple crude tool that makes the job a breeze and will prevent damage to the seals as they're installed.
Here is link to thread, just scroll down to the 3rd post on the first page and you will see how I install the seals and the simple tool I use.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=602776#post602776
allen standley
Well-Known Member
allen standley
Well-Known Member
bluegoatwoods
Active Member
Do you want a really convenient choke lever adjuster? This is pure luxury and it's not all that hard to make.
You'll need a shifter. I happen to like stem shifters on a motorized bike. I can change rear chain rings with either hand. Plus the left side stem shifter is not needed. So it can be put to this use. But a thumb shifter or twist shifter would work, too.
Run a cable from your shifter back to the choke.
You'll need an "L" bracket. On my bike this was just a bit awkward. With the offset intake I had to make a bracket that sticks out just a bit. On a bike with the carb set right along the axis of the bike it'll be a lot simpler.
This probably doesn't need much more explanation. You can see how it's all done, I'm sure.
The L bracket forms a stop for the cable. Slip a return spring into the center and a cable clamp to hold it all together.
Now you've got a good choke adjustment on your handlebars.
You'll need a shifter. I happen to like stem shifters on a motorized bike. I can change rear chain rings with either hand. Plus the left side stem shifter is not needed. So it can be put to this use. But a thumb shifter or twist shifter would work, too.
Run a cable from your shifter back to the choke.
You'll need an "L" bracket. On my bike this was just a bit awkward. With the offset intake I had to make a bracket that sticks out just a bit. On a bike with the carb set right along the axis of the bike it'll be a lot simpler.
This probably doesn't need much more explanation. You can see how it's all done, I'm sure.
The L bracket forms a stop for the cable. Slip a return spring into the center and a cable clamp to hold it all together.
Now you've got a good choke adjustment on your handlebars.
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
That is a nice setup. I don't want to let you think I am not meaning that it is real ingenuity, as it is and with common parts no less. Nice work!
But I do want to jest, where is the Nitrous Button?
But I do want to jest, where is the Nitrous Button?
bluegoatwoods
Active Member
Nitrous oxide??!!
Shhhh......
........we don't talk about that here
Shhhh......
........we don't talk about that here
Chaz
Well-Known Member
Here's my little tip.
If you are a bit on the lazy side, like me, and don't feel like going down to the hardware store to pick up nuts to replace the dreaded acorn head nuts. The tops can be sheared off easy as they are so thin. Two smooth strokes with a decent hacksaw should do it.
Hope this helps somebody. Cheers
If you are a bit on the lazy side, like me, and don't feel like going down to the hardware store to pick up nuts to replace the dreaded acorn head nuts. The tops can be sheared off easy as they are so thin. Two smooth strokes with a decent hacksaw should do it.
Hope this helps somebody. Cheers
I little tip I picked up years ago was to save the filings, and bits of metal kicked out when filing or drilling any type of metal. You can also cut up some steel wool with scissors into little small bits. When I mix up my JB Weld, I add some of this mix into it to strengthen the mix. About one third to one half of the total volume. It makes for a very solid repair, that can still be smoothed, drilled, or even drill and tap it. I've only ever used it with JB, but I imagine that it'll probably work with any epoxy compound.
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
I like your tip and will try it. For one it will stretch out the JBWeld which is not inexpensive (and is the best of the ones I've tried through the years) and two, it should indeed give some additional strength just as adding stone rubble to cement.
SB
Robbie
New Member
My Tip. A good way to secure muffler so it does Not vibrate and brake exhaust studs.
Use the muffler strap in the kit or muffler straping from hardware store
Cut to length attach one end to the 10mm nut on end cap on muffler and the other end to hole for your kickstand. With a bolt or use kickstand bolt. This is a easy and clean way to secure exhaust.
Use the muffler strap in the kit or muffler straping from hardware store
Cut to length attach one end to the 10mm nut on end cap on muffler and the other end to hole for your kickstand. With a bolt or use kickstand bolt. This is a easy and clean way to secure exhaust.
Attachments
Southgate Jonny
Member
Excellent idea, Robbie! I'm gonna do that setup on my bike today... thanks for the tip!
Robbie
New Member
Thanks! I broke & striped a few exhaust studs before i figured that out. works really well & is clean looking hardly noticeable & does not ruin the look of the pipe like the suggested install of the bracket. That's why nobody uses it. When iam not riding my bike it's living room art so I want the cleanest look!
Tip #2 everybody already knows will save lots a headaches LOCTITE LOCTITE LOCTITE everything!!! & RTV sealant on exhaust n' intake gaskets. I even use as a head gasket.
Tip #2 everybody already knows will save lots a headaches LOCTITE LOCTITE LOCTITE everything!!! & RTV sealant on exhaust n' intake gaskets. I even use as a head gasket.