Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

wear usually means that it wasn't greased often enough and/or the cable & clutch adjustment didn't leave that arm free when lever was released

grease it well & be sure there is free play after adjusting and it will last a while, but new ones are fairly cheap
 
My latest engine came with the clutch arm incorrectly orientated on the spline - once I managed to get it off it was easy to reorientate it slightly inwards of pointing directly straight back (with the cable back on and the slack adjusted out). The way it was (pointing out diagonally between straight back and straight out to the left) it was sticky and extremely stiff.
John
 
yea this one was similar except it had the set screw that held the arm in place broken off ( easy fix got lucky enough for it to have left threads for a new one) but the clutch finnaly gave out when riding in to work got cut off buy a lady and almost t -boned her hit and rode the clutch while yelling about her not seeing me so will do with the grease till payday then gonna try to get it fixed if not just order a new motor for the newest build and keep this one to tinker with thanx for the advise on everything.
 
so does anyone have a item number for the bumper bar bearing or the steel shot looking thing behind the bumper bar? like at ace hardware or something i have managed to wear a flat spot on mine and need to replace it.
 
so does anyone know the hub diameter for the huffy cranbrook beach cruiser in going to get one of the hub attachments for the sprocket and chain drive and would verry much like to get the right one
 
so i recently got a pair of the motorized rims from gasbike.net (hy-27) has anyone used these? and if so lol what tire size should i get for them and do they make the tires in a solid (no flat ) also im kinda curious about the rim width i have a huffy cranbrook that works great with the little 48cc motor kit just curious if i should go ahead with the tire shrinking if you will considering the rim is literally half the width of the stock rim get back to me if you guys have any suggestions on this
 
http://youtu.be/lssQ4-mPq1E


OK, I've not posted here in a while. I've placed a link to show my progress and although I deleted some of the recording time I've held on one or two videos. This is a simple video shows off an old seconds Montgomery Wards 30's bike frame. I got lots of parts to play with but this is what I've managed so far. This setup is a 48 cc 2 stroke the piston ID is punched out as much as anyone dare to and the connecting rod is ground round on each side to remove weight as well allow increased millimeters vacuum area. Setup includes 50 mm air-oil fork, 3 piece crank and conversion kit for peddle power reeds mini expansion chamber RSE Reed Kit Rocket CDI and Regina 415 just added a GT 5 billet aluminum cylinder head it fits and fires well so far, not shown only run it for a minuet had to replace the gasket on the reed kit.This bike has three welded motor mounts the frame is 42'' x 18''.Still awaiting a few parts. This bike is one of the tougher bikes anyone could work with and yeah the frame had to be cut and re welded to fit the sprocket in place top speed with a 44 T on this setup is slightly better than 30 mph currently the 48 cc is choice over the 66/80 here it is lighter with less vibration at upper RPM level but less torque at lower RPM. Enough coaster brake most of the time .
 
hazzardous1 said:
so does anyone know the hub diameter for the huffy cranbrook beach cruiser in going to get one of the hub attachments for the sprocket and chain drive and would verry much like to get the right one
Click to expand...

If memory serves, they are 1.5 inches exactly. I can verify that within 24 hours or so. But I think you can count on it.

You'd be well served to get yourself a set of calipers. The average MB rider (who's also the mechanic, after all) doesn't need any specialty tools. But there are a few that are very, very handy to have. This is one of them.

And they can be had for less than a 20 dollar bill these days from Harbor Freight. Amazon, too, I'll bet.
 
Seems that a lot of people think they can't use 3/4" clutches on 5/8" shafts, but you can get sleeves with the key slot in,so they will fit. Just have to get the right keystock, like 3/16" x 1/4". I did a search and found mine at Fastenal. Had some old clutches and just didn't want to by new when i had good ones, ( hope they are good) ............Curt
 
it seem like I spend 4 hrs a day messing around with the bike and always coming up with new ideas and ways to improve on it. I haven't had any problems with it. im hooked bad I just love tinkering around with it. Any advise on the break in period ? how much oil the best type to use ? how long should I ride before stopping for a cool down. im running Lucas 2 cycle 18:1 still on first tank
brnot
 
curtisfox said:
Seems that a lot of people think they can't use 3/4" clutches on 5/8" shafts, but you can get sleeves with the key slot in,so they will fit. Just have to get the right keystock, like 3/16" x 1/4". I did a search and found mine at Fastenal. Had some old clutches and just didn't want to by new when i had good ones, ( hope they are good) ............Curt
Click to expand...

On the opposite note:

The other way from 3/4 to 5/8 shaft reducer is something I was looking to find at one time. Unfortunately it is not just that the shaft is lengthened in the process, but I found the cost of the item varies between 100 to 400 dollars. If anyone sees shaft reducers that are less cost, then rather than buying another clutch I might use one of these. It is also pertinent to know if the belt or chain is going to fit in the new location further from the crankcase wall.

MT
 
MEASURE TWICE said:
On the opposite note:

The other way from 3/4 to 5/8 shaft reducer is something I was looking to find at one time. Unfortunately it is not just that the shaft is lengthened in the process, but I found the cost of the item varies between 100 to 400 dollars. If anyone sees shaft reducers that are less cost, then rather than buying another clutch I might use one of these. It is also pertinent to know if the belt or chain is going to fit in the new location further from the crankcase wall.

MT
Click to expand...

Here ya go take your pick, different lengths. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=3+4+to+5+8+keyed+shaft+reducer+bushing ..........Curt
 
I am extremely diassappointced in this engine (60cc bicycle flying horse). build went well,fired right up! HOWEVER after about 10 days
the clutch goes up!?. New pads easy to get. The clutch however was near impossible to get right. it had to be absolutely perfect!!!! not easy!!! ok alright. 3 rides (maybe 5 miles) the magneto goes NO SPARK!!! There not to many more parts left to go bad in such a simple engine. I was impressed with the build and first start of this machine and bought another one for backup. THIS WILL BE THE LAST ONE I EVER LOOK AT!!!! I got two years out of my first machine. they were great! If possible i guess i will go back, if not, i will find another. I am sure it wont be hard. I will be posting this letter on all the web-sites and forums that I have encountered along my journey. dont mean much but maybe i have alittle respect out there.
VERY DISAPPOINTED
ERIC
[email protected]:-||
 
curtisfox said:
Here ya go take your pick, different lengths. https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=3+4+to+5+8+keyed+shaft+reducer+bushing ..........Curt
Click to expand...

5/8 Clutch on a 3/4 shaft needs one of these, but you might as well just buy another clutch that fits 3/4 shaft. See opposite from larger shaft to smaller shaft conversion not economical. Ebay is like the cheapest, others up to 200 dollars seen elsewhere.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHAFT-Step-...Pc-/111700110335?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
 
Ya ! but would also move it out to far from the engine, best would be to use jack shaft and put the clutch on it..............Curt
 
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