On my Briggs Carburetor which is not the one listed below on Amazon, but another which is the Briggs and Stratton 498170, I have found out how to remove the throttle butterfly parts which I wanted to remove.
I show this other one as it is made similarly and they have more pictures to see. I would have taken pictures, but I had forgotten.
The reason I wanted to remove the throttle part was that the cable linkage part that attaches to it is made of plastic and it broke when I dropped it by accident. I kept that carburetor and today found a need for it. The oring gasket on the other carburetor, where the bowl is attached was leaking. The one that was saved was functional if I could swap the control linkage part.
The control linkage part is like a pin that swivels inside the carburetor throat and has the butterfly round disk attached. This one does not have screws to remove it. It is just press fitted in the plastic rod that has a cut away vertically just enough that the butterfly round disk stays in place.
I turned the butterfly disk round so it was aligned with the carburetor throat on the side towards the engine. Then I took a needle nose pliers and grasped it and pulled and at the same time moved the pliers back and forth to try to wiggle it free. There are some detents that keep it in place, so a little work is needed to remove it.
Once removed the pin swivel with the throttle link age connection point comes out the top. There is a round felt part that is by the top which I suppose keeps leakage from air entering there. Maybe also to make it move freely.
I did the same on the other carburetor and it was a bit more stuck and I left scratches on the butterfly disk but it was not dented or deformed. It could be sanded and smoothed out if I need it later.
I press-fitted it into the other carburetor and felt is snap into the detents.
The carburetor worked fine and did not leak. I checked it first anyway with blowing into the gas inlet with it right side up and by breath was heard going through the jet. When I put it upside down nothing went through.
Who can throw stuff out! It helped in a pinch. I did not have to wait for mailing of another part.
The second of five pictures downward on the Amazon website shows the end where I use the needle nose pliers to pull the butterfly disk press fit part out.
https://www.amazon.com/799866-Carbu...TF8&qid=1510111731&sr=8-1&keywords=B073129YTD
I show this other one as it is made similarly and they have more pictures to see. I would have taken pictures, but I had forgotten.
The reason I wanted to remove the throttle part was that the cable linkage part that attaches to it is made of plastic and it broke when I dropped it by accident. I kept that carburetor and today found a need for it. The oring gasket on the other carburetor, where the bowl is attached was leaking. The one that was saved was functional if I could swap the control linkage part.
The control linkage part is like a pin that swivels inside the carburetor throat and has the butterfly round disk attached. This one does not have screws to remove it. It is just press fitted in the plastic rod that has a cut away vertically just enough that the butterfly round disk stays in place.
I turned the butterfly disk round so it was aligned with the carburetor throat on the side towards the engine. Then I took a needle nose pliers and grasped it and pulled and at the same time moved the pliers back and forth to try to wiggle it free. There are some detents that keep it in place, so a little work is needed to remove it.
Once removed the pin swivel with the throttle link age connection point comes out the top. There is a round felt part that is by the top which I suppose keeps leakage from air entering there. Maybe also to make it move freely.
I did the same on the other carburetor and it was a bit more stuck and I left scratches on the butterfly disk but it was not dented or deformed. It could be sanded and smoothed out if I need it later.
I press-fitted it into the other carburetor and felt is snap into the detents.
The carburetor worked fine and did not leak. I checked it first anyway with blowing into the gas inlet with it right side up and by breath was heard going through the jet. When I put it upside down nothing went through.
Who can throw stuff out! It helped in a pinch. I did not have to wait for mailing of another part.
The second of five pictures downward on the Amazon website shows the end where I use the needle nose pliers to pull the butterfly disk press fit part out.
https://www.amazon.com/799866-Carbu...TF8&qid=1510111731&sr=8-1&keywords=B073129YTD
Yep, I keep all my unbroken used parts. I've also been able to re-use something. Or, It's been sent out to help other members in need. Lord knows that I need to help balance my Karma equation!
I have succeeded in putting the bike back together after adjusting the intake valve, but had this leak start. I am sort of unhappy about that, but still it is better than on the trail. It made it easy as covers were off the engine and all my tools and parts were all still where I knew they were. Now when rain stops I will ride it till it gets all warmed up and see if restarting problem where I had to wait for it to cool off is not happen any more. I will be sure to not go very far, or keep it from stalling so I don't have to walk or wait for it to cool off if for some reason it was not the valve adjustment only. You know sometimes there can be multiple problem happened concurrently. I am psyched though that it is it. Then onto another engine with the same problem.
Last edited:
Do any of you guys have problems with the 415 chain? I ended up breaking two this week, well one was a loss completely, the second broke then i put a master link on there and it broke again..... I thought it could have been because i put a new spark plug on, so i switched it back to the old one and it still broke, could it be because of the cold weather i'm in Arizona so it was 45 degrees so im not sure if that will effect it? I cant figure it out for the life of me and this really is my only means for transportation
Your spark plug has nothing to do with the chain. And 45° F is easily within the normal operating temperature of a chain or anything to do with the bike.
I don't like the idea of having 2 drive chains to the rear wheel, 1 from the pedals, and one from the engine. A jack shaft arrangement solves this problem, but the kits are expensive, about $200 USD.
If the rear (engine driven) sprocket is in perfect alignment, and the sprocket is centered on the wheel, then the system should work. But getting the alignment right and keeping it that way is difficult.
I understand your dependence on the bike. Lots of people depend on only one vehicle. If it happens to be a motorized bike, you need to be a mechanic. If you budget some time every day to tending to the bike, it helps.
Last edited:
I have a motorized bicycle, it is a 66cc on a hyper mens cruiser from walmart. i want to put a rear disc brake on it, i've seen sprockets that offer the 6 hole mounts for one, but i have no space in between the frame and sprocket. I was wondering, could i put it on the other side with the bicycle drive sprocket? there is about 3/4 inch of clearance where i could put a stock 9 hole clamp assembly, and a disc hub mount to go from the 9 holes and have a spacer for the 6 holes at MBrebel. in turn, it would probably work like an adapter to the hub for disc brakes. here are the links for the disc hub mount, and the clamp assembly.
Disc hub mount:
https://mbrebel.com/product/disc-hub-mount-9-bolt-hole-standard-sprockets-bore-1-3inches-33mm/
Clamp assembly:
http://fastbikemotor.corecommerce.com/9-hole-sprocket-clamp-assembly.html
Disc hub mount:
https://mbrebel.com/product/disc-hub-mount-9-bolt-hole-standard-sprockets-bore-1-3inches-33mm/
Clamp assembly:
http://fastbikemotor.corecommerce.com/9-hole-sprocket-clamp-assembly.html
Just a thought, Tyler. But the hyper has no front brakes? Could get an adapter or new front forks and put a disk brake up forward.
Just a thunk. Some folks do fine with just coaster brakes. I personally really prefer both front and rear brakes. Much, much safer.
Just a thunk. Some folks do fine with just coaster brakes. I personally really prefer both front and rear brakes. Much, much safer.
I agree, but with what i have currently, only a coaster brake and a flimsy front u brake i stole off my other bike. now, with all my mods i did, i get all the way up to 40-50 mph and im just looking for an alternative.
If we as cyclists can dispense with factions we can become a much stronger force
for change by forming a coalition of pedal, electric, & gas.
Some of my bikes: 1, my bus touring bike 2, Dirt & beach 3, electric daily driver
4, gas road tour.
Attachments
Last edited:
Even though this is old I will answer it. I put a bead of Shoe Goo or Goop on top of the frame tube before I mount the tank. Works perfectly and it never moves. You can take it off later and it will pull off in one piece if you need to, but it is not affected by gasoline and works perfectly. Larry
You seem knowledgeable and I'm looking for advice, I'm still breaking in my engine and all the sudden it won't idle when I pull the clutch in. I've tried adjusting my needle, idle screw and throttle cable and I'm not sure what's wrong, thank you, chuck
i bought a 80cc motorized bike kit and the clutch stuff that were you suppose to ride to 5mph and let the clutch out which will engage the engine that doesnt work for mine i found out i could use a power drill and hook it up to the mag bolt to turn over the engine i got it to crank up and run one time today but i need to know whats wrong with my clutch
Using a drill to crank the engine requires a ratchet adaptor between socket and drill.
If not, the drill will eventually loosen the crank nut.