Issues that only a pro can help me with, spark issues help!

Do you think this engine is simply defective and will not ever work?

  • Yes.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • No.

    Votes: 4 66.7%

  • Because it is from Goygofast on Ebay.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Nothing to do with it being from Boygofast on Ebay.

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .
Al.Fisherman said:
I think you are talking about the case gasket....the gasket between the two halves. Is the gasket protruding at the front or rear mount.

This picture was for another member. The only leak in the gasket that will effect the engine is the part that surrounds the crank shaft area (where the bearing is).
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Yes that is what i area i was talking about its the area where the gasket meets the front mount it is protruding about a centimeter out and into the mount, do you think that it would possibly leak enough to stop the engine from starting altogether? or maybe a leak in another area *considering its so poorly done that the gasket is in the mounting area*, most of these leaks cause lack of performance (as far as i know) i've never heard of a compression leak in any of these forums that would cause it to not start other than people blowing there head gaskets, but thats not exactly a leak either. :-||
 
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In a 2 cycle, the fuel mix leaves the carburetor, gets sucked (intake stroke) into the bottom of the crankcase (lubricates the bearings), then from the compression from the combustion is forced upward to be burned. So there can be a slight chance that there is a leak in the gasket. But before I went into the engine to check, I'd rule out all other possibilities first. You can have a crankcase shaft seal leak badly enough that the engine won't start. Did you use any starting fluid?
 
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Al.Fisherman said:
In a 2 cycle, the fuel mix leaves the carburetor, gets sucked (intake stroke) into the bottom of the crankcase (lubricates the bearings), then from the compression from the combustion is forced upward to be burned. So there can be a slight chance that there is a leak in the gasket. But before I went into the engine to check, I'd rule out all other possibilities first. You can have a crankcase shaft seal leak badly enough that the engine won't start. Did you use any starting fluid?
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Have not attempted a shot of starting fluid yet as im too broke to go get some, i will try it next time i have some extra spending cash, i have exhausted all possibility's already, i guess its down to a crank shaft leak, gonna try starting fluid first, though i do not think it will work because i tried gas in the spark plug whole and it did nothing. :-||
 
Mojo said:
Brilliant, i like the wheel you made for the clutch cable! very nice i bet it makes for a smoother clutching brnot
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Thank you. BUT it wasn't my design. A member made one for his bike, and I made mine. It reduces the amount of pull on the clutch handle, in my case about 80%.
 
UPDATE, found an auto parts store locally that has the starting fluid for 3 bucks going to pick it up later tonight and give it a shot.
 
Mojo said:
Do you know where i can find a High or at least Good quality gasket for my engine, the bottom area that splits in half ? lol we spoke of it above.
Found a gasket, not sure if it is good quality or if it matters what do you think ?

http://www.gasbike.net/bike-motor-part-crankcase-gasket-2452-prd1.html
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They are all about the same, unless you make one from gasket material. It would be easier to buy that one, and use some gasket sealer on it. I take a artist paint brush and apply Indian Head Sealer. The sealer has a dabber in the cap, I cut it off and the brusk makes a better application.

2oz is the smallest they sell.
 
Dude i think i found the cause!
i pulled off the angel fire slant head and noticed the end of the spark plug does not extend (what i think) is far enough out for the spark to reach the area it needs too, if i only had a damn camera !, i yanked a straight cylinder head from another build i have and it does not fit, this engine i am having issues starting has extra wide engine studs, and my other builds have slim ones, how can i size it properly, can some one upload an image showing how the spark plug looks on the inside of there cylinder for me?, screw the spark plug into the cylinder head then remove the cylinder head and take a snap shot, i do not think my sparks are getting even remotely close to the gas lol
 
The spark plug goes in plenty far enough to ignite the fuel. If it were to go any further inside the combustion chamber, the piston would hit it.
 
GearNut said:
The spark plug goes in plenty far enough to ignite the fuel. If it were to go any further inside the combustion chamber, the piston would hit it.
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yeah, you would think that, i am comparing it to another cylinder i have here and the one i am comparing it too is a whole centimeter closer too the piston head.
 
did you ever get this to run?
first off, if you have spark it should run.
providing that fuel is getting into the float bowl.
if fuel is getting into the float bowl, it should get into the engine UNLESS, the main jet is plugged or it fell out (which is common).
if you have spark and you have fuel, the only other thing left is compression.
take your float bowl off and make sure that there is fuel in it. just because you see fuel in the line does not mean that it's making it into the float bowl. the float can be wedged in the bowl and the needle & seat can be stuck closed (again, common on n.t. carbs even when brand new). if there's gas in the bowl, your spark plug should be wet. a dry plug indicates that no fuel is making it into the engine.
these things are not that difficult to figure out.

also, if you have something hooked to the white wire from the magneto, disconnect it because that alone couls be your entire problem.

you say that you checked for air leaks? how did you do that if the engine won't even run? to check for air leaks, the engine must be running.

another thing is that the vendor (bgf) has nothing to do with how this engine was assembled or how well the soldering on the wires was done.
bgf is just a drop shipper.....ALL of these china 2 strokes are built in china by different factories, and the people you buy them from are just drop shippers. not manufacturers / assemblers.
the assembled engines and kits come to the vendors in boxes from china, and they leave the vendors in the same boxes.
 
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dragray said:
did you ever get this to run?
first off, if you have spark it should run.
providing that fuel is getting into the float bowl.
if fuel is getting into the float bowl, it should get into the engine UNLESS, the main jet is plugged or it fell out (which is common).
if you have spark and you have fuel, the only other thing left is compression.
take your float bowl off and make sure that there is fuel in it. just because you see fuel in the line does not mean that it's making it into the float bowl. the float can be wedged in the bowl and the needle & seat can be stuck closed (again, common on n.t. carbs even when brand new). if there's gas in the bowl, your spark plug should be wet. a dry plug indicates that no fuel is making it into the engine.
these things are not that difficult to figure out.

also, if you have something hooked to the white wire from the magneto, disconnect it because that alone couls be your entire problem.

you say that you checked for air leaks? how did you do that if the engine won't even run? to check for air leaks, the engine must be running.

another thing is that the vendor (bgf) has nothing to do with how this engine was assembled or how well the soldering on the wires was done.
bgf is just a drop shipper.....ALL of these china 2 strokes are built in china by different factories, and the people you buy them from are just drop shippers. not manufacturers / assemblers.
the assembled engines and kits come to the vendors in boxes from china, and they leave the vendors in the same boxes.
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i figured out the issue, it was as i said in my very last 2 posts, the cylinder head was very odd and the plug sent with the kit, and the plugs i have around the house witch are sold on sick bikes, gasbikes.net, and piston bikes did not fit so i tried to re-gap the plug still not enough, i had to dremel around the plug area under the cylinder head where the spark emits from the spark and gas were not meeting EVERYTHING else checks out, it starts the first try, ***BUT NEW ISSUE*** directly after i shut it down, the clutch will NO disengage so i can start it again, i removed the clutch lever/ cover pulled the 1'' metal bar in it and the ball bearing i am use to seeing did not follow it, any recommendations as too what i should do about this ? zpt
 
I am sorry what i meant is the clutch will not ENGAGE, it is only allowing me to peddle the bike, when i release the clutch handle it does not Bump start, its as if i never released the clutch.
 
Okay, i don't know WTF i am talking about, the engine is unable to turn over and run, when i release the clutch handle the ''drive chain?'' does not engage Bump starting then engine, rather i just keep on peddling lol
 
Mojo said:
Okay, i don't know WTF i am talking about, the engine is unable to turn over and run, when i release the clutch handle the ''drive chain?'' does not engage Bump starting then engine, rather i just keep on peddling lol
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Is your clutch cable rigged too tight, so it doesnt let the clutch loose even when you let the handle out? Slide the cable out of the slot on the clutch lever and let it loose, does the motor engage now? If not, then you have an internal clutch issue...
 
nightcruiser said:
Is your clutch cable rigged too tight, so it doesnt let the clutch loose even when you let the handle out? Slide the cable out of the slot on the clutch lever and let it loose, does the motor engage now? If not, then you have an internal clutch issue...
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Yes its an internal clutch issue, the cable is fine, i went into the fly wheel area, the smaller gear has a Flat-Head screw holding it tightly inplace, witch fell too the ground as soon as i opened the fly wheel case or (Clutch Case/Crank Case) i picked it up
under the screw it had a star shaped locking type washer
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/272802150/DIN6797_DIN6798_INT_EXT_TOOTH_LOCK_WASHER.jpg
and a small piece of metal similar to a circle cut in half, or more of an oval cut in half, it i guess locks the smaller gear onto the ''crack shaft?'' allowing the smaller gear to turn the motor over via the nuch on the ''crank shaft?'' and the smaller gear. I re-assembled the whole clutch system, tightening the smaller gear in real well, and no issue now. we will see keep checking this thread for me cause i am 80% sure i will encounter another issue lol. thank you too all for the help, BY THE WAY the 2 U-clamps that come with Boygofast's Schwinn occ chopper mount FAILED and cracked so i am taking it next door to the auto body shop and having them WELD the Boygofast Chopper mount Directly to the Schwinn occ bike frame let me know your ideas on this, is it a good idea?, bad idea?, do you think it will work? should i just buy more U-clamps and chance it braking on a day out?, is the metal the chopper is made of Strong enough for a weld ? :-|| http://store02.prostores.com/boygofast/media/00/a20792a12afe2ccc5c79f9_m.jpg
 
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tooljunkie said:
i am standin here beside myself.....
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You and me both!....
i got it Welded the Weld job held up great. now she won't fking start again the spark plug is not Long enough, it is too far inside the cylinder head where it screws in, for the spark to meet up with the fuel/oil mix to ignite

and it came like this from the factory, i will NEVER buy Boygofast engines again, i got suckered in by there free shipping on a 155$ engine

but so far i will have too put about 50$ more into it just to get it running, thankfully i was able to get it welded for free or it would have been more like 70$ i would still need

i see how everyone on here is RAVING about how great these new Wider front mount engines are cause they ''fit wide tube frames right out of the box''

but it does not tighten onto the schwinn occ stingray mount from any dealer be it BGF or SPB, the size in diameter differs from the front engine mount and the rear engine mount,

the rear engine mount being the standard size for these kits ''up too now anyway'' and the front being 1 1/2'' witch is much to wide for the chopper mount

or a average sized frame, its meant to fit on a 1.55'' wide down tube from what i read any way, but it will not fit the occ chopper mount,

Any ideas ? maybe some ideas for decent/cheap Spacers/shims or is there a down-size option for this larger front mount ? i am freaking stumped.
:-||
 
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