bicycle engine clutch.
- Thread starter Norman
- Start date
new it may just need breaking in. also the clutch handles that come with some of the kits are real junk and a lot of people replaced them with break levers which give you more throw. some of the kits do come with better handles though
I had that problem and on the other site they gave me a lot of grief about it. All you need to do is work it by hand several times then get a good lever the one with the kit wouldn't pull mine at all. I bought a brake lever and never looked back.
Take the sprocket cover off, and put a dab of grease where the clutch arm goes through it.... Also on the pivot that presses in on the pin. When yopu reassemble it, make sure you pull all the slack out of the cable and push all the freeplay out of the arm before you tighten the cable end. (it's easier with two sets of hands)
Run a few drops of light oil down the cable.
Run a few drops of light oil down the cable.
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To worjk that clutch arm I have a post where you work the clutch arm with vice grips make it very esay to hook up the onery cable at the clutch arm.
The rest of the advice will do you good as well lube will always make things go easier.
The rest of the advice will do you good as well lube will always make things go easier.
You will be amazed how easy it is to adjust the clutch after the first time you do it. The nice thing is you can dial it in perfectly. Mine was "over engaged" from the factory....ie when the engine warmed up, my bike would start moving even with the handle fully pulled.
Indeed a nice lever makes a big difference as does taking the left engine sprocket off and greasing in the hole and greasing the pivot point. Also lube the cable and the cable exit point on that mount on the back of your engine.
PLUS make sure your cable sheath is not too long for the cable as it was on mine. I cut about 5/8" off my sheath with a Dremel cut off wheel (cable pulled back of course), relubed it, stuck it back together. Sweet!!
Indeed a nice lever makes a big difference as does taking the left engine sprocket off and greasing in the hole and greasing the pivot point. Also lube the cable and the cable exit point on that mount on the back of your engine.
PLUS make sure your cable sheath is not too long for the cable as it was on mine. I cut about 5/8" off my sheath with a Dremel cut off wheel (cable pulled back of course), relubed it, stuck it back together. Sweet!!
PS you know you have it well lubed and stuff when you can push the clutch arm with your left hand and take the cable out of the slot with your right hand.
Something else take off the lower cable mount and shoot some grease in the hole watch for it to come out around the bearings behind the sprocket and behind the clutch this is where the real spring for the clutch lives and if you look at my total tear down you will see just what is in there.
Hope this will help you out all kinds of good stuff here to do and try. I don't think any other forum has done a complete tear down with pictures and text like is on here hope all this info will get you a good running ride on your motorized bicycle.
Norman
Hope this will help you out all kinds of good stuff here to do and try. I don't think any other forum has done a complete tear down with pictures and text like is on here hope all this info will get you a good running ride on your motorized bicycle.
Norman
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My bike motor seems to have a whining sound.....is this normal ? The clutch seems to be correctly adjusted so I'm not sure if it is coming from that or something else. Any ideas ?
Many thanks....
PS..I ordered another kit today to make one for my son. This one should go together much easier.
Many thanks....
PS..I ordered another kit today to make one for my son. This one should go together much easier.
Yes, these engines have some pretty wicked gear whine, some more than others.
Check the gears and make sure they have a small amount of grease on them. Lithium or high pressure wheel bearing grease work best- just a little dab will do ya'.
Check the gears and make sure they have a small amount of grease on them. Lithium or high pressure wheel bearing grease work best- just a little dab will do ya'.
Hi Norm, I noticed your clutch pucks look different from the ones we had. Is that an older style motor? Is it a one piece clutch or is it the same concept as the motors we got from DAX?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
Easy
I'm not sure I have a Dax engine I could pull off the clutch plate and take a look I got one from Kings and the rest from boygofast so beats me!
I'm not sure I have a Dax engine I could pull off the clutch plate and take a look I got one from Kings and the rest from boygofast so beats me!
When I need to adjust my cable end, I take it out of the arm move it where i think it needs to be tighten it, then push the arm back until I can slide the cable in. Work like a champ for me.
Okay, do not have to take the small gear off to turn the clover nut thing. Okay, let me get this straight. Pull the clutchin and lock it then remove the set screw, then turn clover nut clockwise. Then put set screw back in. The clover nut does not look like it has anything to put a wrench on from the photos, must be easy to turn hu?