bicycle engine clutch.

Norman

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Here we go again I got Rufus my handy dandy portable grease rag helper raring to go and tear into the clutch. Easy kitty we are gitten ready to rip. What worries me is the cat is white!?


I'm taking off this nut and small gear just to show how its done, cause there's been trouble with the woodruff key on other people's bikes and I'm showing you how to get it off right hand threads and I'm using a hand impact tool To work on only the clutch leave the small gear alone and keep on looking at the rest of this post.


The puller to get the gear off and it works good you will see.Please use the goo on the threads so you don't tear it up.( ruin the threads)

 
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Norman

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Re: The clutch.

The outer part of the puller housing on the small gear

the inner part of puller in place

puller being used to remove the small gear
 

Norman

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Re: The clutch.

drawing of how the goodies all look



hard to see the key but its there


this is the set screw you take out to turn the so called flower nut or star nut to adjust the clutch
 
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Norman

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Re: The clutch.

the clutch plate spring, plate, flower nut, retaining set screw. Someone said to stretch this spring don't do that you are wasting your time.


friction pads and where if grease gets on them they will slip


with small gear off you can spin this gear with your finger.

 
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Norman

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Re: The clutch.

this inner part is the driven part of the clutch turn rear wheel and it goes around. Great just what you wanted to know.the little nub in the center is the rod that works the clutch plate and inside there somewhere is the spring that slams the silver plate shut onto the pads to make it all work and not that wossy spring we took off before even Rufus knows that.




turn flower nut clock wise to stop slipping and counter clock wise to make it slip but pull in and lock the lever on the handlebars so you can spin it( the flower nut) with your fingers. 1 to 2 turns may be too much keep reading and looking as its easy if you do it right. I ain't lieing well a little. Heck I'll send Rufus he will get it right and make all of us look like fools.


how the lever and arm should look when everything working the clutch lever arm should have a little slack when adjusted correctly 1/16" or a little free play.














when clutch is pulled in, how it will look again your arm position my vary a little so hang in there cause there is the easy way to turn the flower nut( pull in the clutch lever and set the lock) and you don't need a wrench like I've seen on posts else where. which I've said a doz. times, wella few times? Don't get me mad, Rufus will turn loose the flyin monkees and you know what they did to the scarecrow don't you?!!

 
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Norman

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Re: The clutch.

you only need to turn the flower nut with your fingers to adjust and not a big friggen socket and breaker bar pull in and lock the clutch lever use your finger its easy. Some of the shade tree mechanics need to be forced to sit only under the tree and not touch tools by the way.



make since ?Don't burry the flowernut just get it started and release the clutch lever and see where you are then keep turning it in until when you test it it'll not slip? Did that sound right?

what else can I do to confuse you and me?

 
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Norman

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Re: The clutch.

You don't need to remove the small gear to adjust the clutch I did it just to show how to remove the gear. Leave the small gear on to adjust the clutch.If the big gear and the small gear will spin and the clutch lever is let out and the engine will not spin but like I said all the rest of the stuff is spinning, the little woodruff key has bit the dust and now you will know how to remove the small gear to fix it. To get under the driven parts which I've not done yet remove the nut that holds the driven parts and then you are on your own.

Ok put the gear back on and use a hammer type impact wrench like I did in the beginning ( $6.00 @ harber freight) to put the screw back on and you need to make sure the woodruff key was in place which you can seat it in its slot with a (BRASS punch) so you don't mushroom the key. There is a locking star washer under the screw to lock it in place so you should not need any loctite but if you've just got to do a little booger and not a big snotty wadd.
Rufus says don't forget the little dab of grease to lube the gears and don't over do it. Put the cover on with a gasket and go ride.Woops! Ruf said to check the operation out of the clutch before you button it up for good but to play it safe put the cover on with 2 screws to test as Rufus hates it when his tail gets in moving parts. He sure as heck will turn loose the flying monkees if he get his tail hurt and that really scares me.
THE END

 
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deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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Re: The clutch.

Okay norman

for me who is less than a novice even. When you say turn the wheel one to two turns do you mean complete turns or just one or two notches?
 

Norman

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Re: The clutch.

Assuming you have taken it apart and did like I said start the flower nut on the clutch with the lever pulled in and locked and 2 to 3 complete turns to get the( flower nut shorted to F-nut) F- nut started. Then let the clutch lever out and see where you are if you push the bike with the lever out or pedal and let out the lever and the clutch slips then pull in the lever/lock it and turn the F-nut clockwise 1 full turn and test again you will get it right this way but it take patience and time don't forget to put a dab of thread locker in the locking set screw and if you always pull in the clutch lever when messing with the F-nut you can turn it with your fingers and not strip the nuts threads out. Pulling in the lever and locking is also handy when aligning up the set screw hole on the F-nut. Did that make since?!
Did this help you with the clutch mysteries?
Norman
 

Pablo

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Dec 28, 2007
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Re: The clutch.

Wow thanks Norm. Better than the video!!

Here's my situation:

1) I can't even get any free play on my cable. It barely reaches through the whole in the clutch lever arm.
2) I have the adjustment nut on top of the back of the engine all the way out to give me the throw I need to disengage the clutch.
3) When engine gets warm, disengaged clutch starts to engage automagically and bike start to roll!

So my question is which way should I turn the adjustment nut?
 

deacon

minor bike philosopher
Jan 15, 2008
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Re: The clutch.

Now that you explained how to test the clutch (duh on me) I can figure it out. I can't believe that I didn't figure that out myself.
 

Norman

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Re: The clutch.

Do this only if there is no extra cable hanging off the actuating lever on the engine the outer housing is too long and you will need to take the cable apart. cut off an inch off the outer housing and reassemble and then adjust you clutch. If you've got some extra cable hanging on the end of your actuating arm loosen the nut on the cable ferrell and get a little slack that way. When and if you cut the outer housing be sure to pull the inner cable clear out don't need the inner one chopped off. One of my bike does have a little drag when the clutch is in the locked button position but when the lever is pulled in all the way there is no drag on the clutch. Rufus says I got to get back to work so good luck.
 
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TeddyB

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Jan 19, 2008
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Re: The clutch.

Norman I hope this is not too off topic. My clutch is working fine on my 80 cc chinese but is rattling like a coffee can with a few loose marbles in it.

what could this be? If I lightly press on the cover with my 2 thums it quiets down. All the screws are tight!

Ted
 

Norman

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Re: The clutch.

take the cover off and see what falls out. could be the gears need grease or the cover is rubbing on the gears. One of my engines gears whine loudly at a certain rpm. check the small gears slotted screw and make sure its tight. The cover on some engines will resonate like a drum on some of these engines as well. That problem can be addressed by putting a sound deadening material on the cover if your hands quites it down when you lay your hand on it its possible the cover is making the noise. Check out the cover.
 

Easy Rider

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Jan 15, 2008
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Great post Norm, My clutch is slipping pretty bad and its in need of some serious adjusting. I was wondering if its necessary to remove the small gear to adjust the clutch? Also I wasn't sure if the clutch needs to be engaged during the adjusting? Thanks for the awesome post Norm!
BTW....
Does anyone know who sells clutches?

Thanks
 

Norman

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No you don't need to remove the small gear another one of the guys was wondering how to remove the small gear so I did that just to show how to get the small gear off. To turn the I call it the flower some call it the star nut. Its the nut with the very small locking screw holding it from turning. To adjust this flower nut pull in the clutch lever and lock the lever then you can turn the nut with your fingers and not damage or strip the nut out. If your clutch is slipping remove the silver clutch plate clean off the silver plate with brake clean and you can spray the clutch pads with brake clean. Then reassemble your clutch. Don't stretch that spring it won't do you any good. put your flower nut on with your fingers (still got the clutch lever locked) and screw it on a couple of turns let out the clutch lever and see if it slips turn the flower nut in 1 complete turn and keep trying it it should get to where it won't slip. remember to pull in the clutch lever when turning the flower nut and you should not have trouble remember to put a dab of locktight on the little locking screw then done and a small dab of grease on the gears. I have a post showing all of this. so you should not run into a major problem.
Last time I looked there is vendors who sell the clutch pads as an assembly Dax comes to mind and check with who you bought the engine from as I'll bet they have parts as well. have fun work safe and I hope I answered your question.