BGF Hongdu/Solex
- Thread starter cannonball2
- Start date
Otero
Member
Ah so,
It's an easy install,(should be); The important thing is
to get the roller level & centered. What size roller did you get?
When I first got mine everyone was telling me to inflate to 55 psi.,
but I've discovered slightly under-inflated works better cuz when
the roller's pushed a bit farther into the tire it grips better.
Ignore that tip if you're under 160 lbs.
It's an easy install,(should be); The important thing is
to get the roller level & centered. What size roller did you get?
When I first got mine everyone was telling me to inflate to 55 psi.,
but I've discovered slightly under-inflated works better cuz when
the roller's pushed a bit farther into the tire it grips better.
Ignore that tip if you're under 160 lbs.
Mike B
New Member
I'm 6-2, 225. Not a lightweight.
I got the 1 inch roller, thought that best. I have another Staton with the 35 cc Robin Subaru and that is a sweet bike. That I got the 1.125 roller on. Works good.
The Tanaka has a little less torque, so I went a little lower, should be about the same. Gonna scrap those cheesy tires I put on there so the Solex roller would fit and go with a couple of old fav's the Serfas Drifters.
Hehe, the Solex wouldn't run good w/o 55 psi in the tires.
It's really tearing me up. I loved that old putt-putt. That motor has enormous low end torque and will run fine walk slow. I used to just comp release and let it roll down the driveway hill and let go and off it would putt. When it don't putt it's **** to deal with.
I'm too old for this crap anymore. When I want to ride, I want to ride, not play the drizzle gas, check the tiny pipes, drain the tank, remove the pump and all the plumbing routine. Then screw it all back on and find that it still don't work.
I'm going to see if I can do a spring loaded thing on this one so I won't even have to worry about setting the struts and the skewer thing.
I got the 1 inch roller, thought that best. I have another Staton with the 35 cc Robin Subaru and that is a sweet bike. That I got the 1.125 roller on. Works good.
The Tanaka has a little less torque, so I went a little lower, should be about the same. Gonna scrap those cheesy tires I put on there so the Solex roller would fit and go with a couple of old fav's the Serfas Drifters.
Hehe, the Solex wouldn't run good w/o 55 psi in the tires.
It's really tearing me up. I loved that old putt-putt. That motor has enormous low end torque and will run fine walk slow. I used to just comp release and let it roll down the driveway hill and let go and off it would putt. When it don't putt it's **** to deal with.
I'm too old for this crap anymore. When I want to ride, I want to ride, not play the drizzle gas, check the tiny pipes, drain the tank, remove the pump and all the plumbing routine. Then screw it all back on and find that it still don't work.
I'm going to see if I can do a spring loaded thing on this one so I won't even have to worry about setting the struts and the skewer thing.
Otero
Member
Know how ya feel 'bout the putt-putt. I almost shed a tear when
I had to scrap my old $15 huffy,(busted frame). It was like robbing the
dead when I stripped off all my after mkt. parts. I get tired of tweaking
my bike, but at my age it keeps me going. I feel I'm getting close to that
ideal configuration. Messed with my Staton today: put a wide, square.
Schwinn cruiser tire & snubbed her down. I can't get that thing to slip.
It's the same tire you see on Staton's demos, But I notice he doesn't
sell 'em. It doesn't leave much clearance twixt the stays though. This
tire has a lot of meat on it which is good.
I had to scrap my old $15 huffy,(busted frame). It was like robbing the
dead when I stripped off all my after mkt. parts. I get tired of tweaking
my bike, but at my age it keeps me going. I feel I'm getting close to that
ideal configuration. Messed with my Staton today: put a wide, square.
Schwinn cruiser tire & snubbed her down. I can't get that thing to slip.
It's the same tire you see on Staton's demos, But I notice he doesn't
sell 'em. It doesn't leave much clearance twixt the stays though. This
tire has a lot of meat on it which is good.
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Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
Nice idea, but I don't know if I'd want attach something called a 'Rubbee' onto one of my bicycles. 
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
At the moment here we know it's Summer because the rain's warmer. I haven't taken the Wu Yang out on the road yet because the weather has been so awful. Rained hard today which is a worry because it can bring the level of the river that flows beside the town up very quickly.
Otero
Member
I believe I know the feeling well. though it's winter here,
normally we would be experiencing rain & high water too.
Instead, For reasons unknown, it's cold & dry with temp.
0 to -6 C. The upside is I can ride friction dressed for
skiing. Back in Colorado I used to ski a lot, professionally
even, before I got all busted up. Cold, but this is great fun
to ride. It's the next best thing. I was out yesterday
zooming about for hours.
normally we would be experiencing rain & high water too.
Instead, For reasons unknown, it's cold & dry with temp.
0 to -6 C. The upside is I can ride friction dressed for
skiing. Back in Colorado I used to ski a lot, professionally
even, before I got all busted up. Cold, but this is great fun
to ride. It's the next best thing. I was out yesterday
zooming about for hours.
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Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
Yes the weather is really messed up with climate change and shifts in the ocean currents. Our river never gets a chance to develop any growth of reeds as when we get downpours of rain here it swiftly turns into a fast flowing torrent. We get gales too, but being more sheltered here under the Coromandel Ranges we don't get them as bad as they do out on the Hauraki Plains.
I agree, cold dry weather is great for getting out on a bicycle, - I love it, only unfortunately we tend to get far more days with heavy damp river mist in Winter than we do clear dry cold ones.
I agree, cold dry weather is great for getting out on a bicycle, - I love it, only unfortunately we tend to get far more days with heavy damp river mist in Winter than we do clear dry cold ones.
Otero
Member
Our climates are much the same, just reversed, though I
suspect it's more like the South island here. I may just
have to put the engine back on the touring bike. I got
ambitious last week & put 44 km on in a day pedaling.
I think I over did it. Not a reasonably sustainable pace
for a stove-up 65 yr. old.
suspect it's more like the South island here. I may just
have to put the engine back on the touring bike. I got
ambitious last week & put 44 km on in a day pedaling.
I think I over did it. Not a reasonably sustainable pace
for a stove-up 65 yr. old.
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
Today did not start well. While carefully filling the petrol tank so I didn't spill any fuel I was surprised to discover that I seemed to be spilling it anyway. Then I discovered that the Solex petrol tank had a pinhole leak on the welded seam.
All play came to a halt while I made good the leak and then had to wait for the epoxy compound I'd used to set off.
With evening coming on I had a go at starting the engine. Basically it didn't seem to want to even when I made use of the long sloping footpath that runs past our gate. Time to check everything. Fuel seemed to be circulating as it was supposed to, The ignition was producing a good spark; - I know because it bit me. Removing the head and cylinder barrel didn't find anything wrong. The rings gaps were nicely spaced, the cylinder bore had a good cross hatch honing pattern. My engine has a chrome top piston ring by the way.
I double checked the decompressor adjustment before putting the head back on. All gaskets were good and I'd found no undertightened bolts or nuts when I stripped the engine down.
Still no go, but it was getting late by then so I decided to check the carburetor tomorrow to make sure I haven't got a blocked jet, I must say though that these are very easy engines to work on which makes for a nice change.
All play came to a halt while I made good the leak and then had to wait for the epoxy compound I'd used to set off.
With evening coming on I had a go at starting the engine. Basically it didn't seem to want to even when I made use of the long sloping footpath that runs past our gate. Time to check everything. Fuel seemed to be circulating as it was supposed to, The ignition was producing a good spark; - I know because it bit me. Removing the head and cylinder barrel didn't find anything wrong. The rings gaps were nicely spaced, the cylinder bore had a good cross hatch honing pattern. My engine has a chrome top piston ring by the way.
I double checked the decompressor adjustment before putting the head back on. All gaskets were good and I'd found no undertightened bolts or nuts when I stripped the engine down.
Still no go, but it was getting late by then so I decided to check the carburetor tomorrow to make sure I haven't got a blocked jet, I must say though that these are very easy engines to work on which makes for a nice change.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
You are right about ease of working on. You can do just about anything short of a crankshaft replacement with the engine mounted. While its down check the head and base gaskets. Both of mine had the gaskets shuffled around, and had extras as I remember under the head. Its back in the thread somewhere. The gaskets were of poor quality and I replaced them with OEM VSX gaskets. If all is well with the top end, spark, carb etc. look maybe for a crankcase leak. Also the CDI type ignition will make spark with the flywheel in any position, check for a missing key maybe. I advise slosh sealing the tank as they are rusters as are.
Otero
Member
I dunno; like Mike I'm getting A bit tired of tweaking. My DIY belt drive
worked fine for quite a while 'til I went to the stronger engine which
twisted the clutch bell off the shaft stripping both. So now I have to
make a new shaft. Given my resources, I made the last one by hand
using a file. It took days! I'm about ready to throw in the towel &
buy a G.E.B.E. kit. At least both my engines are dependable.
Right, folks, all that sounds easy
worked fine for quite a while 'til I went to the stronger engine which
twisted the clutch bell off the shaft stripping both. So now I have to
make a new shaft. Given my resources, I made the last one by hand
using a file. It took days! I'm about ready to throw in the towel &
buy a G.E.B.E. kit. At least both my engines are dependable.
Right, folks, all that sounds easy
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
The gaskets on my engine look to be nice quality and I didn't find any extras in the way of head and base gaskets. Surprisingly my engine's petrol tank was completely clean inside, which by Murphy's law was the reason why it had a pinhole in the seam. Thanks for the suggestions on what to try next
Yes Otero I can understand, - sometimes all that we want is for something to work and not turn into a spannerfest every time we go near the thing.
Otero
Member
Well, the decision's been made for me. Having done a thorough study
of the G.E.B.E., the stays on all three of my bikes are too narrow to accept
their kit, to which I would have had to make a few mods anyway.
The upside is, after having read their dos & don't, it seems my DIY is
essentially more robust.....Or will be once I use a stronger thread on the
new shaft & bell. That should be ready some time in the next decade.
He said, beating a dead horse.
of the G.E.B.E., the stays on all three of my bikes are too narrow to accept
their kit, to which I would have had to make a few mods anyway.
The upside is, after having read their dos & don't, it seems my DIY is
essentially more robust.....Or will be once I use a stronger thread on the
new shaft & bell. That should be ready some time in the next decade.
He said, beating a dead horse.
