I had the same thing happen after about 600 miles. It's like a chip of piston just came off. The replacement parts from BGF are better than the kits!
Boy-go-fast?
- Thread starter jf30cp
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Hey I love ebay and their rating system and at 97.7 with 127 negative feedbacks
alone this year why would I buy from him?
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...sspagename=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller
alone this year why would I buy from him?
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...sspagename=VIP:feedback&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller
Hopefully he gets back with me and I can get some good replacement parts. I hope the rod and bearings are ok.
It looks like what ever that chunk of meal is it came in via the port that the scratch is lined up with .My guess is a piece of slag that didn't quite get seen during um "covering my mouth" the Inspection. I always pop off thew head on a a new build or while changing a plug it is well worth the extra 15 minutes it takes. However I'm not so sure Ida seen that bugger hiding in that port. also helps & I'm sure everyone knows this already but it's a good idea to also if you install 4 washers or so on each head stud to make sure they do not bottom out. I have a similar looking head and piston from the upper head gasket disintegrating and dropping chunks of itself into the cylinder , did enough damage to notice considerable HP loss
I got my kit in a timely fashion, but after assembly it will not run. Turns out now they tell me my head gasket must be to thin which they say causes my engine to have too much compression for the break in period. . Guess what, I now get to wait another week while I order these thicker head gaskets at my cost for my brand new engine kit from boysgofast. I'll go fast too if this thing will ever run. Hope they enjoy spending my money while I pay for and wait for the proper parts for my engine which should have been installed on the engine before it was ever sold to and shipped out in the first place. This is my first engine for a bicycle. Can anyone recommend a company that truly sells a good quality engine?
Sorry Aluminumwelder, you'll have pretty much this same issue from any vendor. There is no quality to these kits.
BGF is really good with replacement parts however!
BGF is really good with replacement parts however!
If you will start a new thread in the general section you will get more help and feed back on your problem.
AW, that's really a stretch... to think any HT engine has too much compression for it's own break-in period.
and I would also have difficulty believing bgf is maintaining a technical staff to deal with customers who have mechanical difficulties... That's not to say anything bad about bgf, they are a re-seller, and that's it.
If the engine will not turn over, by releasing the clutch easily, while pedaling, perhaps the clutch may need adjustment.
If I was set in the opinion there was too much compression, I might try loosening the sparkplug a turn or a turn and a half, for the very first start.
If there is some strange circumstance... (wow) that the fit and finish of the cylinder/piston/rings are so great, (which is really, really unlikely), perhaps you might wish to pull the plug, squirt a shot of lubricating oil into the cylinder, and turn it over for a minute or so with the plug removed.
...really a long shot!...
It seems we are not getting the whole picture here, or all the information...
Did you run a compression check?
Does the engine turn over well without the plug installed?
What really happens when you release the clutch?
as said above, perhaps it would be best if you posted in the mechanical repair section of the board...
Good luck
rc
and I would also have difficulty believing bgf is maintaining a technical staff to deal with customers who have mechanical difficulties... That's not to say anything bad about bgf, they are a re-seller, and that's it.
If the engine will not turn over, by releasing the clutch easily, while pedaling, perhaps the clutch may need adjustment.
If I was set in the opinion there was too much compression, I might try loosening the sparkplug a turn or a turn and a half, for the very first start.
If there is some strange circumstance... (wow) that the fit and finish of the cylinder/piston/rings are so great, (which is really, really unlikely), perhaps you might wish to pull the plug, squirt a shot of lubricating oil into the cylinder, and turn it over for a minute or so with the plug removed.
...really a long shot!...
It seems we are not getting the whole picture here, or all the information...
Did you run a compression check?
Does the engine turn over well without the plug installed?
What really happens when you release the clutch?
as said above, perhaps it would be best if you posted in the mechanical repair section of the board...
Good luck
rc
only problem i ever had was I ordered a standard kit and they sent me a large mount motor with the kit. we resolved the issue pretty quickly tho. other then that its been all good. i dont see the point in paying more money for the same crap parts.
Glad all you guys had good luck with BGF, but I have had just the opposite.. I have a motor{my first} that i recently purchased from them.. It will not run.. I have offered to pay the freight both ways to obtain another one.All they say is that my head gasket must be to thin causing me too much compression and that I need to double the head gasket so as to make it thicker and thus lower the compression.. sounds like hogwash to me. **** I could just loosen the spark plug a couple of turns if I wanted to do that. Don't know what is wrong with engine but I guess I can kiss my purchase price and shipping fee good buy..Live and learn...
I would take the head off and check for debris on top of the piston keeping the engine from rotating. You can reuse the head gasket, its tin. From what you are saying i'd try that first.
The head gasket is aluminum. It can be re-used once with good results. It is squished to a very slight angle that is machined into the top of the cylinder when the head it tightened.
To re-use it you should flip it over so that it will be squished to the opposite of the original side to get better sealing results.
This is common practice on the Rotax snowmobile and ultralight engines also.
Does the engine turn over without the plug? Sometimes on a new engine the clutch will slip and keep the motor from turning over. Might need to tighten the internal spring if you can't get it to stop slipping with flower nut adjustment, or might be oil or grease in the clutch that needs to be cleaned off
You can not loosten the plug to run it. It will leak air and cause a lean condition, and if the motor don't fry first, the plug will soon blow out and prolly take some threads from the head with it
To re-use it you should flip it over so that it will be squished to the opposite of the original side to get better sealing results.
This is common practice on the Rotax snowmobile and ultralight engines also.
Does the engine turn over without the plug? Sometimes on a new engine the clutch will slip and keep the motor from turning over. Might need to tighten the internal spring if you can't get it to stop slipping with flower nut adjustment, or might be oil or grease in the clutch that needs to be cleaned off
You can not loosten the plug to run it. It will leak air and cause a lean condition, and if the motor don't fry first, the plug will soon blow out and prolly take some threads from the head with it
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I saw this posting a day or two late. I had one of these dual brake levers on order by the time I read this post. Well, it arrived today. Honestly, this thing is a joke and they should be ashamed to be selling crap like this. Oldsub is right, it is just a single brake lever with shady work done to it. I was not against the idea of a single lever modified to be a double if the work had been done in a quality way. In fact I was going to make one myself but thought I would save myself some time and effort. Boy, was I wrong, pun intended. It only took me looking at it for two seconds out of the package to say aw **** no. They drilled a hole through the lever itself and inserted 1/4" rod through it. Still, I wasn't against the idea for I will end up doing similar on my own. However, all they did was drill a 1/16" hole on each end for the cable to slide through. Nothing to retain the cable ends, not countersunk, nothing. They are just left hanging in mid air. The holes were also in no way lined up. The way they drilled them was in such a way that only one cable or the other could be lined up. Imagine looking at the rod from one end. One hole was drill from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock. The other hole was drilled from 2 o'clock to 8 o'clock. Next, there is no way to readily adjust cable tension. Instead of tapping threads into the base plate they drilled all the way through and just put nuts on the other side. Only way to adjust is if you added washers and re-tightened. First you'd have to break them loose from the overly thick paint on the threads not to mention everything else. The paint on this thing is so thick and covered with orange peel. If they really are up in Los Angeles, two hours away from me, I am tempted to drive up there and hand return this piece of crap in person.....
~ evil ~
Everyone does not have the same experience as OP with BGF. I have had no reason to complain.
The kits are low end and that should be expected pretty much anywhere. I've had to replace all the bearings on my kit and a few gaskets, and a top end.
Their replacement parts are cheap and awesome! The quality is way better than what comes with the kit engine. Their replacement engines are even better quality. At least from what I'm seeing.
As far as service, if I email them, in a friendly manner, they get back to me within 12 hours. If I email upset, It will be a few days before I get a response.
They ship same day and I usually get parts on the east coast within 3 days even for an entire engine or an order over 15 pounds.
Basically, you get what you give with BGF.
The kits are low end and that should be expected pretty much anywhere. I've had to replace all the bearings on my kit and a few gaskets, and a top end.
Their replacement parts are cheap and awesome! The quality is way better than what comes with the kit engine. Their replacement engines are even better quality. At least from what I'm seeing.
As far as service, if I email them, in a friendly manner, they get back to me within 12 hours. If I email upset, It will be a few days before I get a response.
They ship same day and I usually get parts on the east coast within 3 days even for an entire engine or an order over 15 pounds.
Basically, you get what you give with BGF.
on the subject of BGf and service im afraid i have to wag my finger at them. my second kit was a boy go fast, the one that just recently blew up. yes i got what i paid for, it took a little long for it to ship but there are other variable to factor in there (postal service delays).
I can however say this. I got my kit installed it and it never fired up. test working coil fromold kit no go, tested magneto from old kit: worked for 5 minutes or so then nothing. i could not get the seller to send me replacements for the kit becuase it had been 30 days after purchase even though tracking showed i had only had the item a week. that is a major contributor to the cause of my motors death as i got fed up and said F*** it, and gave up on motor bicycling for a while, kit sat and weathered away. i have since returned with the same kit only to have it blow up on me before 200mi. but again other variable factor there.
Im up in the air, the man sells what he says hes selling and ships in a timely manner.
However as far as virtuosity, customer service and the need to do right by his customers... i cant say as much.
I can however say this. I got my kit installed it and it never fired up. test working coil fromold kit no go, tested magneto from old kit: worked for 5 minutes or so then nothing. i could not get the seller to send me replacements for the kit becuase it had been 30 days after purchase even though tracking showed i had only had the item a week. that is a major contributor to the cause of my motors death as i got fed up and said F*** it, and gave up on motor bicycling for a while, kit sat and weathered away. i have since returned with the same kit only to have it blow up on me before 200mi. but again other variable factor there.
Im up in the air, the man sells what he says hes selling and ships in a timely manner.
However as far as virtuosity, customer service and the need to do right by his customers... i cant say as much.
200 miles, man you got to ride. My first kit was from BGF and I never made it around the block before it locked up . He cried fuel mix on me . 16:1 mix my @ss. 
Dang seriously? I got about 650 miles on mine before a major repair needed to be done. I'm now at about 800 and doing a full engine overhaul. First a piston went, then a clutch rod bearing, and now a crank side bearing.
What feul ratio were you running when it locked up? I'd say he was right, due to the fact that he doesn't lube the engines before he sends them. Meaning the engines, unless oil gets to the piston really fast, could lock up really quickly. ALWAYS lube new engines.
What feul ratio were you running when it locked up? I'd say he was right, due to the fact that he doesn't lube the engines before he sends them. Meaning the engines, unless oil gets to the piston really fast, could lock up really quickly. ALWAYS lube new engines.
Major engine repair.@ 650 miles you got to be kidding it's just broke in. you must a boy to boy go fast 1 of those Peter great crap kids 650 miles you doing overhaul . I have 1600 miles on my gt5 no problems. And I race the FK.out of it everyday.
Then again, All I've ever used are BGF engines, It's all I can afford. I don't keep track of milage, but my first bike I rode almost every day for two years, no problem. I'm not easy on them either, WOT most of the time. The Huffy I'm riding now is another BGF. Again, WOT most of the time. It's only been about a year on this one.
Do you really think there's a factory in china making engines for BGF and another factory making them for everybody else? The only real difference between one engine or another are the bearings. If you want to be sure, the only way is to take it apart and check. If you got one with real cheap bearings or bushings, then change them. Other than that it's all about break in. I KNOW BGF buys a cheaper engine, probably with cheaper bearings. THATS WHY THERE CHEAPER TO BUY. I check to make sure the piston has a bearing and not a bushing, (replace it if so,) and run heavy on the oil for break in. (I use the cheapest oil Wallmart has to offer.) For break in I've been known to run 8oz to a gallon with non synthetic. less with synthetic. (But usually around 4 1/2 to 5oz for break in.) Even after break in I run it a little heavy, 3 1/2 or 4oz per gallon. Of course the less oil, the better the performance, but if your running on the edge of barely enough oil to lube yer engine, then good luck keeping things lube'd up. Too much oil won't hurt yer engine, Too little will. On race day mix it for performance. The rest of the time, mix it to ensure engine life.
Again, The only difference in engines is bearings, and BGF don't care about the bearings, so ya gotta check it yourself. If yer not mechanically inclined then I guess ya gotta pay the extra $100 or $150 for it to make sure you get good bearings. Not trying to be an A**, But if yer running a chinese 2 stroke perhaps you should learn how to tear one down anyway.
fatdaddy.
Do you really think there's a factory in china making engines for BGF and another factory making them for everybody else? The only real difference between one engine or another are the bearings. If you want to be sure, the only way is to take it apart and check. If you got one with real cheap bearings or bushings, then change them. Other than that it's all about break in. I KNOW BGF buys a cheaper engine, probably with cheaper bearings. THATS WHY THERE CHEAPER TO BUY. I check to make sure the piston has a bearing and not a bushing, (replace it if so,) and run heavy on the oil for break in. (I use the cheapest oil Wallmart has to offer.) For break in I've been known to run 8oz to a gallon with non synthetic. less with synthetic. (But usually around 4 1/2 to 5oz for break in.) Even after break in I run it a little heavy, 3 1/2 or 4oz per gallon. Of course the less oil, the better the performance, but if your running on the edge of barely enough oil to lube yer engine, then good luck keeping things lube'd up. Too much oil won't hurt yer engine, Too little will. On race day mix it for performance. The rest of the time, mix it to ensure engine life.
Again, The only difference in engines is bearings, and BGF don't care about the bearings, so ya gotta check it yourself. If yer not mechanically inclined then I guess ya gotta pay the extra $100 or $150 for it to make sure you get good bearings. Not trying to be an A**, But if yer running a chinese 2 stroke perhaps you should learn how to tear one down anyway.
fatdaddy.
