I am having a 'if I am going to go thru ebay for a 80cc 2 stroke kit?' I could get an original china original at $165 or a *** nock off for $240 take home price. Some minor upgrades can also be found for both. The made in J@¶°#€©£ has roller bearings on the crank. What should I do if longevity is an issue? Please do not mention 4 letter words! The icing might be where can a 9 hole 48t sprocket be be found?
If you can post a picture to help, thanks!
I just took my starter cord and put an electrical cord strain relief part with the inside clamp part removed on a cover on my motor bike. It is to allow my starter cord to go through a cover and be where I can pull it to start and it does not abrade the cord. I thought I would need to lengthen the cord, but my engine starts easy and I have a primer bulb on the carburetor too. The cord does go at an angle, but not much resistance. I only have about 18 inches I can pull on the cord unless I lengthen the cord.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=16
Page 16 Post 153 the two pictures
Need not read the text there is a lot I know.... but FYI it is temporarily showing the long exhaust being tested shown in the picture and is for later multipurpose use as art vehicle to look like a fish. It is gonna be to keep fumes far away from art cover for safety.
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I would like to adapt a 5/8 inch shaft on my engine to 3/4 inch driver element of a torque converter system. The driven element that Comet makes for the 30 series is in 5/8 inch but the driver is either 3/4 inch or 1 inch with the key permanently installed on the driver.
If the key was not integrated on the driver, I could make a special key with a one dimension the height being 1/8 inch (the difference between 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch) so that a bushing with the 3/16 inch cut slot would make a nice adapter. The cylinder shape thing with the cut slot, called a adapter bushing you see at Grainger and on Ebay, so that is not a problem.
I could make a special size key or some on Ebay even have a 3/16 inch by 5/16 inch (3/16 inch + 1/8 inch) special size key.
It is just that the Comet 30 series driver element either in 3/4 inch or 1 inch have a permanently integrated key that is too short by 1/8 inch if you are going to use one of these adapters.
There is another way much more involved using a stepped size non-square key made special. It could only be used for the 1 inch driver not the 3/4 inch driver as the permanently installed key in the 3/4 inch would not reach far enough to make it work.
I thought of getting two adapters, one from 5/8 inch to 3/4 inch and another from 3/4 inch to 1 inch and make a special key shaped to go into the keyway on the engine 5/8 inch shaft.
The special key extends through the first bushing and part way into the second bushing.
This would be so that both bushings turn with the engine shaft.
The driver built in key extends 1/8 inch into the 2nd bushing.
The key built into the driver for the 1 inch shaft uses normally a square key of 1/4 inch when not already built in. The built in one then is half the height. That means that 1/8 inch then that goes into the second outer bushing as the integrated key the driver supplies.
Using a mill maybe the key would be sufficient, but using a Dremel tool, hacksaw, and file is what I maybe have to use depending on costs involved.
Anyone had need to adapt from 5/8 inch to 1 inch with a key already built in where there is no option?
Other than that I would look for another manufacturer that does not use a permanently installed key on both the driver and driven elements of a torque converter.
MT
If the key was not integrated on the driver, I could make a special key with a one dimension the height being 1/8 inch (the difference between 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch) so that a bushing with the 3/16 inch cut slot would make a nice adapter. The cylinder shape thing with the cut slot, called a adapter bushing you see at Grainger and on Ebay, so that is not a problem.
I could make a special size key or some on Ebay even have a 3/16 inch by 5/16 inch (3/16 inch + 1/8 inch) special size key.
It is just that the Comet 30 series driver element either in 3/4 inch or 1 inch have a permanently integrated key that is too short by 1/8 inch if you are going to use one of these adapters.
There is another way much more involved using a stepped size non-square key made special. It could only be used for the 1 inch driver not the 3/4 inch driver as the permanently installed key in the 3/4 inch would not reach far enough to make it work.
I thought of getting two adapters, one from 5/8 inch to 3/4 inch and another from 3/4 inch to 1 inch and make a special key shaped to go into the keyway on the engine 5/8 inch shaft.
The special key extends through the first bushing and part way into the second bushing.
This would be so that both bushings turn with the engine shaft.
The driver built in key extends 1/8 inch into the 2nd bushing.
The key built into the driver for the 1 inch shaft uses normally a square key of 1/4 inch when not already built in. The built in one then is half the height. That means that 1/8 inch then that goes into the second outer bushing as the integrated key the driver supplies.
Using a mill maybe the key would be sufficient, but using a Dremel tool, hacksaw, and file is what I maybe have to use depending on costs involved.
Anyone had need to adapt from 5/8 inch to 1 inch with a key already built in where there is no option?
Other than that I would look for another manufacturer that does not use a permanently installed key on both the driver and driven elements of a torque converter.
MT
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FYI:
I found this thread and it has some solutions for 5/8" shaft and 3/4" torque converter CVT problem:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=534550#post534550
I posted to it on page page 1 post number 8
MT
I found this thread and it has some solutions for 5/8" shaft and 3/4" torque converter CVT problem:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=534550#post534550
I posted to it on page page 1 post number 8
MT
I ride year round rain, snow, sleet, or heat & being the "USE EVERYTHING & ANYTHING you have" for what you need type of person I am.
I found these old knee pads from when I had injured my knee and said to myself HMM I bet these would keep my pants out of my chain.
So I tried it and let me tell you ... my ankles have never been happier,the wind use to blow up my pant leg no matter what I did after riding with these pads I call them that has stopped completely
I can't imagine not using them now. Especially on days like this .. See bike picture The pad was $7 I think , made by ACE @ walmart.
They also do wonders for the sticks & things that like to jump up and whack your ankles when riding the very edge of the road
I found these old knee pads from when I had injured my knee and said to myself HMM I bet these would keep my pants out of my chain.
So I tried it and let me tell you ... my ankles have never been happier,the wind use to blow up my pant leg no matter what I did after riding with these pads I call them that has stopped completely
I can't imagine not using them now. Especially on days like this .. See bike picture The pad was $7 I think , made by ACE @ walmart.
They also do wonders for the sticks & things that like to jump up and whack your ankles when riding the very edge of the road
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I use a chunk of old bicycle tire tube to hold my clutch lever in. I have the spring loaded locking mechanism BUT do not trust that ..Something in the design I just cant bring myself to 100% trust it a nice 2" chunk of any bicycle inner tube works great I just leave t right on my grip at all times you cant even notice it.
I tend to often misplace my phone ..So my wife installed an app called "Android Lost"
Well that FREE app saved me $300 bucks last week I inadvertently left my phone on my bicycles rear rack & took off to work the other morning it was below 0 temps
I spent a good part of my morning layering up I took the bike out side. my wife came to the door "you forgot your phone stupid ".
So I took it from my loving wife & set it on my rear rack while I put my gloves on I jump on my bike 8 miles later I get to work no phone I get home that night tell my wife the bad news . She jumps on the PC pulls up "Androidlost.com" she went to the control page clicks "locate phone"
I could see approx where it was on the map So I got back on my bicycle fired it and was amazed at how long that phone hung on for dear life.
Taking direction from my wife I was on her phone she on kids phone she told me when I was on top of it
but I couldn't find it anyplace
My wife says hold on hun let me try something . She then instructed me to put her phone in my pocket and listen close then I heard it she remotely set off the alarm and I was able to hone in on it it was buried under 6" of leaves on the side of the road in fine working order good thing too because that night we got 14" of snow I love that app and installed it on every one of the families my entire android family of phones .
Another good thing about that app is if someone steals your phone you can send a message that POP's UP on any screen they may be on, and when they click OK or X to close it ,"CLICK" it snaps a forward facing photo,and attaches a real time GPS location to the picture. & cookie the crook is BUSTED!!
This app is unreal ..and to top that off it is free . yea they can prob read all my phone numbers see all ya pics but no more so than say facebook does besides..I've nothing to hide so!!! you can also lock the phone turn on or off wifi , gps, sync, you can get the last 50 text messages ect. etc.lo Best 0 dollars i ever spent
Well that FREE app saved me $300 bucks last week I inadvertently left my phone on my bicycles rear rack & took off to work the other morning it was below 0 temps
I spent a good part of my morning layering up I took the bike out side. my wife came to the door "you forgot your phone stupid ".
So I took it from my loving wife & set it on my rear rack while I put my gloves on I jump on my bike 8 miles later I get to work no phone I get home that night tell my wife the bad news . She jumps on the PC pulls up "Androidlost.com" she went to the control page clicks "locate phone"
I could see approx where it was on the map So I got back on my bicycle fired it and was amazed at how long that phone hung on for dear life.
Taking direction from my wife I was on her phone she on kids phone she told me when I was on top of it
but I couldn't find it anyplace
My wife says hold on hun let me try something . She then instructed me to put her phone in my pocket and listen close then I heard it she remotely set off the alarm and I was able to hone in on it it was buried under 6" of leaves on the side of the road in fine working order good thing too because that night we got 14" of snow I love that app and installed it on every one of the families my entire android family of phones .
Another good thing about that app is if someone steals your phone you can send a message that POP's UP on any screen they may be on, and when they click OK or X to close it ,"CLICK" it snaps a forward facing photo,and attaches a real time GPS location to the picture. & cookie the crook is BUSTED!!
This app is unreal ..and to top that off it is free . yea they can prob read all my phone numbers see all ya pics but no more so than say facebook does besides..I've nothing to hide so!!! you can also lock the phone turn on or off wifi , gps, sync, you can get the last 50 text messages ect. etc.lo Best 0 dollars i ever spent
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Good idea, Jumpa.. Obviously it's already been useful for you. I'll take a look at that app myself. I like that it can take a pic w/gps info.
I've got AVG installed on my Galaxy and it has similar features. I can log in and get the location of my phone, track it, lock it, make it ring and a few other things.
*edit.. just installed and activated the app. Hopefully I won't need it, but I'd rather have it and not need it than the reverse.
I've got AVG installed on my Galaxy and it has similar features. I can log in and get the location of my phone, track it, lock it, make it ring and a few other things.
*edit.. just installed and activated the app. Hopefully I won't need it, but I'd rather have it and not need it than the reverse.
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Not sure if this whole "Andriod Lost" ordeal fits under the "leave a tip take a tip " cat.however since the phone lost was while I was on my motorized bicycle I figured I could get a mulligan on it.
One more good feature on this app is you can wipe your phone clean also wipe the storage card as well if need be
One more good feature on this app is you can wipe your phone clean also wipe the storage card as well if need be
It can also record audio "remotely" for up to ten hours ... a handy feature if you think about it..
Re: take a tip...leave a tip...or a bunch of 'em
it's a hame the upload made me cut out the CASE XX 2 Finn
Every thing one needs to make a quality gasket
it's a hame the upload made me cut out the CASE XX 2 Finn
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I don't recall seeing this in the thread, but I use the foam BMX handgrips to cut down on the dreaded hand buzz.
Me, too. Then I cover them in elk hide and stitch them up. Nice for arthritic old hands.even if you don't have engine vibrations.
SB
I am hoping that I'm in the right place to get a tip?
I have a 1947 JC Higgins had it Bead Blasted and bought Rustolium Primer, Paint and clear lacquer cleaned the metal with acetone, primed and started with cream color and Bam! Crinkle! ok color sand re-paint, everything cool then Lacquer Bam! Crinkle! ok everything stripped for 3rd time what is going on ????????????
I have a 1947 JC Higgins had it Bead Blasted and bought Rustolium Primer, Paint and clear lacquer cleaned the metal with acetone, primed and started with cream color and Bam! Crinkle! ok color sand re-paint, everything cool then Lacquer Bam! Crinkle! ok everything stripped for 3rd time what is going on ????????????
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I had a similar experience with one build. I stripped the bike to bare metal, primed it, painted with the color coat and when spraying the final clear coat it immediately crinkled and looked like ****. It turns out that I had not waited long enough for the color coat to cure before giving it the clear coat. Don't remember how long I waited, but it wasn't enough. What might be a good idea is to test paint something that doesn't matter, an old fender or something and then test a small area with the clear coat to see if you've waited long enough for the curing of the color coat.
SB
1st time I waited a week because I was working a job that left me no time to mess with it , so after that week I color sanded it and clear coated it and immediately got Crinkle now today I just said #$% it primed, waited an hour for it to dry then then laid down the cream color waited about 10 min then cleared JEEZZZZZZZ!! it came out Beautiful!! now I'm going to wait for the cure then color sand , mask the spears out and lay down the black then clear again so far I've just been messing with the forks until I can get it down Pat I had to get the frame re- bead blasted and it is still bare metal.
Your ride is too clean for a sane person's.I ride year round rain, snow, sleet, or heat & being the "USE EVERYTHING & ANYTHING you have" for what you need type of person I am.
Your clearcoat is attacking your basecoat. Get the right paint and clear.
Using products made to work together from the same manufacturer will prevent this issue.
Eveything is Rustolium Primer, Paint and Clear I found the key to this is not to fallow directions and Waite 1 hr. to 48 hr. but rather Waite about 10 mins. then clear coat that way everything blends and dry's together, waiting for the recommended time limits only causes the paint to re-activate then the clear will shrink with the reactivation of the paint underneath as it dry's.
