Maytag Flyer

GoldenMotor.com

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
Truckd, I had looked at the Gyes seats before refurbing this one, I passed on them however.

Im loving this build, whats next?
Because you asked.

Next up will be the front end,
I want to get this to be a roller before I hang the engine in place, just so I can get some stuff cleaned up in the shop and out of the way.

I did not want to cut the new Worksman front end up so I took the front off of a wrecked CCM MTB, the steering bearings were a smaller ball size than the Worksman units but the inner races were interchangeable. The steering post is about 1/4 inch longer so it suits my requirements perfectly.


So I cut the steering post free from the forks.

Then cleaned it up and transfered the races from the Worksman post, then installed it.

You can see that there is space between the top inner race and the nut, this space will let me fit in a top crown.

I now have the starting point for the front end and can now work out the final design and get some materials.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
120
63
Southern California
''I must decide on the mounting and configuration of the engine and to do this I must decide if I will retain the stock magneto ignition and fan or go to a total loss system with points and a CDI like Buddfab's build.''

As a Maytag collector, I love this build. Just a thought on the magneto/flywheel problem. You shouldn't need the fan on the flywheel. If you machine the rim and fins off, you are left with a nice looking cover that will polish up well and rev a little faster. I wouldn't ruin your good flywheel as it's valuable and has the serial number on it. I've run across plenty of broken ones that would be cheap donors. The exposed points on Buddfab's looks great but you can still make adjustable timing using the entire coil mounted plate linked to a lever that twists it on the motor.
 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
Thanks for the input.

I had considered removing the outer ring and fins but I was/am concerned that by removing it I would loose some structural integrity and the remaining portion may twist once the stresses of the outer section are removed.

What is your opinion on this?

I have never operated one of these engines before and I appreciate the knowledge of someone familiar with them.

My serial number indicates production in 1939 and the flywheel is in good shape. If I was to save it, finding and shipping a damaged one to use in this build (across border to Canada) would probably offset the value of the one I have though.
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
1,808
120
63
Southern California
Thanks for the input.

I had considered removing the outer ring and fins but I was/am concerned that by removing it I would loose some structural integrity and the remaining portion may twist once the stresses of the outer section are removed.

What is your opinion on this?

I have never operated one of these engines before and I appreciate the knowledge of someone familiar with them.

My serial number indicates production in 1939 and the flywheel is in good shape. If I was to save it, finding and shipping a damaged one to use in this build (across border to Canada) would probably offset the value of the one I have though.


I've seen and heard these motors running without the outer ring and fins before and they seem to work well. You may want to add a metal disc to the other side to make up for lost flywheel effect, but I wouldn't bother until you see the need. On a kickstarted engine, I am a big fan of flywheel weight. It turns over more times helping it to start, lugs easier for better takeoffs and smoothes out the impulses. But on a pedal started engine, it should start very easy and rev faster with the lighter flywheel. As far as structual integrity, they're fairly substantial castings further reinforced by the bolted in magnet ring. It's kind of a judgement call. Obviously if you have room for a full flywheel, you could cut it down later after you get it running. On the other hand if it changes the design enough to warrant different mounting, you would need to plan for the smaller wheel. Having one of each would be optimum, however, as you say, cost and availability may be prohibitive. When I get a chance, I will look through my spare parts for a donor flywheel. if I find one I may not want to give it up because I was thinking of a similar build. It's always nice to let someone else do the experimenting and benefit from their findings. You're pretty far along with your build and I may not get to mine for another year or so. Also, I'm hoping the carb you found will work. You already mentioned removing the jet and governor. It would be cool to see a build thread on Buddfab's bike. I was wondering if you were going to get the motor running with all the modifications before mounting it in the frame. Also, will yours retain a kickstarter or will it be pedal or rope started? This is something I've wanted to build for about 20 years, so keep plugging and it will get done.
 

monark

New Member
Feb 1, 2012
87
0
0
sweden
been following this for a while and its apparent you are a very sharp craftsman (blacksmith maybe?).The only link i as a swede have to toronto is the hockeyplayers (Lidas,Forsgren aso).love the build and will follow the outcome closely.
 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
msrfan,, I will get it running and tuned on a test mount before it is installed in the bike. I have been awaiting reassembly until I was sure which way it would be installed, which way it would rotate and which way the exhaust ports would point, and where the intake port would point. I now have that part in my head but I want to make this bike roll and pedal before I finish mounting the engine.

This weekend I did not accomplish much on the Flyer. I have been busy getting prepared to haul one of my other projects to the Detroit Autorama Extreme for next weekend.

I did get a little more done for the front end. Rolled some 1 inch tube for the rear legs and whittled away at a slab of 3/8 inch plate until I had the lower plate for the triple tree.



Hopefully more progress on this the following week and then another car show in Toronto. That is one reason that this project will take some time to complete.


.trk
 
Last edited:

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
Made up a few more parts for the front end.
Fit the neck post into the lower tree and welded it in place.
Cut, drilled, threaded and bent the two pieces that fit between the lower tree and the crown, then made up the crown piece.
Then made the pieces that will mount the bottom rockers and welded them into the curved tubes.
The small holes are just pilot holes to be enlarged once I get the proper hardware and bushings.



Here is the loosely assembled parts made so far.



I have also acquired a couple of Lucas carbide lamps. This is the first one


 
Last edited:

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
This is the second light that I think I will use for the headlamp. The other one may get a red lens and become a tail lamp.




Thats it for now..
 
Last edited:

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
6,082
4,059
113
minesota
Awesome defanet like the second light polish it up be kool. What are you going to use for the pivist and bushings? I am useing drill rod stock from www.use-enco.com I will cut them to close length put them in the lathe drill them for bolts the trin then to the finial lenght. Heat them red and toss in oil a lot cheeper then scholder bolts.........Curt
 

harry76

Well-Known Member
Apr 16, 2011
2,557
47
48
Brisbane, Australia
Man this build just keeps getting better and better. You sir are a craftsman. Im learning a lot. This may end up being one of the best builds on here and truly worthy of IMO one of the best looking engines around: the maytag twin.

I have the same headlight as your second one, though yours looks to be in better condition. I will however advise you that the rear of the 2 top covers can come loose, i actually lost mine on a ride, but i replaced it with a washer and switch for the LED light i fitted, so its not too bad. But you may want to look at fastening it somehow, if you havent already

 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
Thanks for the comments.

CurtisFox, I will be useing flanged oilite bushings and shoulder bolts.

Harry76, Thanks for the heads up on the cap. However I think your lamp looks better than mine, The chimney on this one is slightly cooked.
 

harry76

Well-Known Member
Apr 16, 2011
2,557
47
48
Brisbane, Australia
Thanks for the comments.

CurtisFox, I will be useing flanged oilite bushings and shoulder bolts.

Harry76, Thanks for the heads up on the cap. However I think your lamp looks better than mine, The chimney on this one is slightly cooked.
Your is way better then mine, did you notice where someone has repaired mine between the upper and lower section.

I didnt even notice the "cooked" chimney until you pointed it out, is it obvious in person?.... A man of your talents im sure you could straighten it up a bit? Or will it break do you think?
 

Whozawhat

New Member
Jan 15, 2012
214
4
0
Canada
It is fragile, but that is ok, I won't attempt repair, this is not going to be a shiny bike.
More like it was just dragged out of a barn.
 

RicksRides

Member
Feb 22, 2012
864
6
18
osceola IN
Lookingh real good sar far. Iam watching this build close . i have 2 of the engines but thought them too small in the power range 5/8 to 3/4 hp, so im curious how it will move.