That is looking pretty cool! little concerned about the seat post, do you think it will hold up after a few miles on the road ?
Maytag Flyer
- Thread starter Whozawhat
- Start date
Makes me sick!!!! Where do you get off having such fine skills?LOL
Very nice build so far. When I was a kid back in the 70's...the old neighbor guy I was around alot had an old Maytag washer engine. I used to drag that thing out all the time just to start it up and just listen to it run. Really looking forward to seeing and hearing yours run in a future video.
Very nice build so far. When I was a kid back in the 70's...the old neighbor guy I was around alot had an old Maytag washer engine. I used to drag that thing out all the time just to start it up and just listen to it run. Really looking forward to seeing and hearing yours run in a future video.
I used a welding torch to heat it up to bend it. It was then quenched to help retain the spring quality of the steel.
The seat post is not just a "C" shape welded on top of the existing post. It is 5/8 inch diameter solid rod heat shaped and quenched in a "sickle" shape with the handle portion inserted in the center of the original seat post then welded in place, it won't break and if it slowly starts to bend I will know I am too fat.
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Yes, In my head. The engine will be configured in the regular manner with the cylinders fore and aft, the magneto on the right, carburetor on the left. Positioned high in the frame due to the shape of the engine. A vertical primary drive belt will connect to a double belt pulley which is fixed to a jackshaft located in a housing mounted lower in the frame loop. The second pulley is for the rear wheel drive rim.
That will look real good with primary and final belt drive. These motors put out less than 1hp. You may consider using the 1100 series Gates or 3L series Dayco or equivalent, as the wider, more common 1/2'' belt takes much more power than the narrower one. Are you going to be able to pedal start? I'm curious to see your clutch setup. Great job on the frame.
I wonder if he's into the Volks-rods like Fishguts was? Say, anybody heard from Fishguts lately?
That is Bugsplat, my last project. I have a long build thread on Volksrods.com or a condensed 17 minute youtube video, and I know Fishguts through the Volksrods forum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xq0gD-DIoc&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xq0gD-DIoc&feature=youtu.be
Holy Crap Dude! Thats one bad a$$ bug! EVERYBODY! Watch his video. Unreal fabrication skills and a keen eye for the bizzare! ( in a good way ) Not out out of the box thinking... What box? He dont need no stinking box.
That Vid was Crazy Awesome! Thanks for sharing that, wow. But, now everyone will scrutinize your bike twice as hard 
Kidding, of course, great work.
Kidding, of course, great work.
Glad you like Bugsplat it is lots of fun, also one reason why I don't make much progress on the Flyer when the weather is nice.
However getting back to MB building.
I have been gathering and making parts for the engine and jackshaft installation. I will post pics when it is assembled as it makes more sense than a pile of bits on the bench.
I also decided the curved seat post didn't look right so I changed it back to a straight post. Then added another pair of braces to the front of the carry rack, just because it looked like it needed them. Then at a friends suggestion I added some rivets to give it a more authentic period look.
However getting back to MB building.
I have been gathering and making parts for the engine and jackshaft installation. I will post pics when it is assembled as it makes more sense than a pile of bits on the bench.
I also decided the curved seat post didn't look right so I changed it back to a straight post. Then added another pair of braces to the front of the carry rack, just because it looked like it needed them. Then at a friends suggestion I added some rivets to give it a more authentic period look.
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A true DIY'er!
I missed looking at your thread for almost the full year and glad I came across it.
I was wondering about a situation I might possibly try although not absolutely necessary for my single speed motor bike. It uses A5 section belts and I have to swap two pulleys on two separate jackshafts around to change the ratio so I go from a parade speed 4 to 7mph and alternate OHV in the dirt at 7 to 17mph or so.
If I could route one belt out of the way of one side of the rear brakes I would have a quicker way of changing ratio by just not using one of the two jackshafts. This involves using an idler pulley to keep the belt out of the way of the brake part, but I don’t know how A5 section (Link-Belts) is with a roller on the opposite side (top) of the V-section. The top side of the section belt is a bit bumpy as the links connect one after the other so I am skeptical. I’m wondering if it has been done and if it can work. I’ll probably try a mock setup without modifying the bike in a test stand to check on this at some time.
I see the old time real wide flat belt in the pictures of what you showed in the first posts you made. I suspect you are looking for your build to be somewhat like the photos to some degree as I see the sheave that is on the rear rim. These would be ideal if the need for idler pulley is necessary. It does look as though either side of the belt is flat, so it is symmetrical.
That previous seat post was such a charm, I hope you don’t toss it out all together….. use it on another build or at least call it art!
MT
I missed looking at your thread for almost the full year and glad I came across it.
I was wondering about a situation I might possibly try although not absolutely necessary for my single speed motor bike. It uses A5 section belts and I have to swap two pulleys on two separate jackshafts around to change the ratio so I go from a parade speed 4 to 7mph and alternate OHV in the dirt at 7 to 17mph or so.
If I could route one belt out of the way of one side of the rear brakes I would have a quicker way of changing ratio by just not using one of the two jackshafts. This involves using an idler pulley to keep the belt out of the way of the brake part, but I don’t know how A5 section (Link-Belts) is with a roller on the opposite side (top) of the V-section. The top side of the section belt is a bit bumpy as the links connect one after the other so I am skeptical. I’m wondering if it has been done and if it can work. I’ll probably try a mock setup without modifying the bike in a test stand to check on this at some time.
I see the old time real wide flat belt in the pictures of what you showed in the first posts you made. I suspect you are looking for your build to be somewhat like the photos to some degree as I see the sheave that is on the rear rim. These would be ideal if the need for idler pulley is necessary. It does look as though either side of the belt is flat, so it is symmetrical.
That previous seat post was such a charm, I hope you don’t toss it out all together….. use it on another build or at least call it art!
MT
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Here is a progress update.
I went to a vintage motorcycle swap meet a couple of weeks ago and picked a choke control lever from an old Brit motorcycle.
I will use it for a throttle control.
Also located some old hand levers and grips, one for brake and one for a clutch on the primary drive.
Figured out some mounts for an old MC fire extinguisher.
Got a jack shaft machined to fit my jackshaft housing. Now I can align things and weld the mounts in place.
The housing is the end caps off of an electric motor, I retained the original bearings inside. The shaft will get shortened as will the engine crankshaft once the pulleys and belt alignment is figured out.The housing will also get some copper plumbing added later to give it a look.
I went to a vintage motorcycle swap meet a couple of weeks ago and picked a choke control lever from an old Brit motorcycle.
I will use it for a throttle control.
Also located some old hand levers and grips, one for brake and one for a clutch on the primary drive.
Figured out some mounts for an old MC fire extinguisher.
Got a jack shaft machined to fit my jackshaft housing. Now I can align things and weld the mounts in place.
The housing is the end caps off of an electric motor, I retained the original bearings inside. The shaft will get shortened as will the engine crankshaft once the pulleys and belt alignment is figured out.The housing will also get some copper plumbing added later to give it a look.
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