motorhedfred
Member
Right, they do have bronze connecting rods IIRC.
Maytag Flyer
- Thread starter Whozawhat
- Start date
Whozawhat
New Member
I agree.
I am only looking to get parade or jogging speed out of this at normal engine operating RPM of 1650, anything above that and I will be running over pedestrians. oops.
This is only going to be used inside events at fairgrounds, parades and such. I live 1 block from a fairground that hosts alot of various fairs and agricultural events, one is focused on historic "Steam Era" vehicles and machinery.
Also to get around at weekend car shows and motorcycle rallies which are inside parks.
That way my bigger toys stay parked when they should,,,hic.
charliechaindrive.
New Member
This thing is coming along very nicey, those fenders complete the look of it.
Whozawhat
New Member
Todays project was to make a vintage style toolbox.
After making some paper templates and then cutting some 18 ga. metal I got it tacked together.
all welded and cleaned up.
Made a wire edged access door with brass thumbscrews.
Finished the box, made the mounts and fit it in place.
I now also have the primary drive pulleys, still have to make the drive pulley for the final flat belt. Then I can make the primary drive cover.
More next time I have a couple hours in the shop.
After making some paper templates and then cutting some 18 ga. metal I got it tacked together.
all welded and cleaned up.
Made a wire edged access door with brass thumbscrews.
Finished the box, made the mounts and fit it in place.
I now also have the primary drive pulleys, still have to make the drive pulley for the final flat belt. Then I can make the primary drive cover.
More next time I have a couple hours in the shop.
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MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
Very nice style in the tool holder coming together!
I tried my 40:1 ratio with Briggs 3hp 4 stroke engine bike and it does keep it down to under 5mph when brought up from idle 1750 rpm to the clutch engagement rpm 2000 - 2200 rpm. I again am guessing speed from the test today at 3500 rpm or whatever full throttle was about 10 mph. Now I'm starting a fish covering for the bike.
Later to see with 20:1 and what kind of dirt bike speeds I'll get.
I looked at the Maytag engine specs for rpm range and it seems that the engine can idle maybe a bit lower than the bigger 3hp Briggs, so if you go with an manual clutch you could get some slow parade speeds desired.
MT
I tried my 40:1 ratio with Briggs 3hp 4 stroke engine bike and it does keep it down to under 5mph when brought up from idle 1750 rpm to the clutch engagement rpm 2000 - 2200 rpm. I again am guessing speed from the test today at 3500 rpm or whatever full throttle was about 10 mph. Now I'm starting a fish covering for the bike.
Later to see with 20:1 and what kind of dirt bike speeds I'll get.
I looked at the Maytag engine specs for rpm range and it seems that the engine can idle maybe a bit lower than the bigger 3hp Briggs, so if you go with an manual clutch you could get some slow parade speeds desired.
MT
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Whozawhat
New Member
Today was a nice and unseasonably warm day so I went out in Bugsplat for a late fall cruise.
Yesterday was not as nice and I did a little work to the Flyer.
First I stretched out the handlebars that I had cut shorter a few weeks ago.
I had looked at them long enough to decide that they needed to be longer and they need a crossbar, well they still need the crossbar when I get some tube the proper size.
Then I started some poster board oragami, trying different gas tank designs.
The first was just a quick fold up in frame idea.
You can see that the front end requires the gas tank to stop short of the front of the frame or else they would hit when the steering is turned hard.
I then tried out an over frame style tank that would be made out of two seperate sides.
I liked its possibilities but it was too big for the size of the engine.
So I decided to try a tank that was one piece and fit under the top tube.
It had a tunnel on the bottom so it could drop down over the lower tube.
This gave a deeper tank but it would not fit into place nicely even if I cut the tunnel from bottom to top it still would not "roll" into place.
Yesterday was not as nice and I did a little work to the Flyer.
First I stretched out the handlebars that I had cut shorter a few weeks ago.
I had looked at them long enough to decide that they needed to be longer and they need a crossbar, well they still need the crossbar when I get some tube the proper size.
Then I started some poster board oragami, trying different gas tank designs.
The first was just a quick fold up in frame idea.
You can see that the front end requires the gas tank to stop short of the front of the frame or else they would hit when the steering is turned hard.
I then tried out an over frame style tank that would be made out of two seperate sides.
I liked its possibilities but it was too big for the size of the engine.
So I decided to try a tank that was one piece and fit under the top tube.
It had a tunnel on the bottom so it could drop down over the lower tube.
This gave a deeper tank but it would not fit into place nicely even if I cut the tunnel from bottom to top it still would not "roll" into place.
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Whozawhat
New Member
At this point I made a template for a filler piece to close in the frame in front of the gastank.
Then it was back to the original idea of a purely in frame tank. I made a poster board mockup, now I need to make a wooden buck to do some hammerforming.
I had planned on using this old veterinary needle,
once stripped of chrome it is brass, to make a hand operated oil pump similar to this one.
Then it was back to the original idea of a purely in frame tank. I made a poster board mockup, now I need to make a wooden buck to do some hammerforming.
I had planned on using this old veterinary needle,
once stripped of chrome it is brass, to make a hand operated oil pump similar to this one.
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Whozawhat
New Member
Instead I used a pump from an old brass blow torch to create a faux oil pump plunger. I will fit this into the "oil tank" section of the fuel tank.
I also used a small "Unimat" lathe to modify some plumbing fittings into gas cap and filler neck parts.
Then the parts were suspended in ammonia vapor over night to give them some patina.
This morning they looked like this.
I also used a small "Unimat" lathe to modify some plumbing fittings into gas cap and filler neck parts.
Then the parts were suspended in ammonia vapor over night to give them some patina.
This morning they looked like this.
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truckd
Well-Known Member
I would make a full sized tank but add 1" fork stop bars to each side of the frame, old Schwinn bikes had them.
I like the 20cc vets syringe, I took the glass cylinder out and replaced it with a nylon stranded vinal hose,I'm working on the plumbing but I'll run my electrical through (insted of oil or anything like that) down to the crank case to the coil and loop up with spark plug the wire.
I'm really digg'n the handle bars and will have to do the same to mine on the new build
I like the 20cc vets syringe, I took the glass cylinder out and replaced it with a nylon stranded vinal hose,I'm working on the plumbing but I'll run my electrical through (insted of oil or anything like that) down to the crank case to the coil and loop up with spark plug the wire.
I'm really digg'n the handle bars and will have to do the same to mine on the new build
Attachments
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silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Thanks for showing the whole thought process. That's how it is sometimes when you're doing something different, thinking things through, trying this and that to see what works. And boy does that build work!
SB
SB
dracothered
New Member
WOW....
Great work still, keep it up...
Great work still, keep it up...
charliechaindrive.
New Member
Wow!!!! This thing is going to be sweet when done whozawhat!
Whozawhat
New Member
thanks for the comments guys,
truckd,,, I did have a fork stop but found it was too limiting so I took it off.
Even when it was there the tank just did not fit well and still have a shape that was not overly narrow at the front end.
I will take one more look at it before I make the final move.
I had thought of moving the oil pump location to the side of the tool box and build it in, thus turning the tool box into the oil tank and use a different torch pump that has a T handle. It is still an option at this point.
It was this picture of an Indian that prompted that idea, but I think you must have seen this before.
SB,,, I am sure that you know the whole thought process would take alot more time to explain than what I have done here, this just gives you a small glimpse of the stuff running around in my head.
truckd,,, I did have a fork stop but found it was too limiting so I took it off.
Even when it was there the tank just did not fit well and still have a shape that was not overly narrow at the front end.
I will take one more look at it before I make the final move.
I had thought of moving the oil pump location to the side of the tool box and build it in, thus turning the tool box into the oil tank and use a different torch pump that has a T handle. It is still an option at this point.
It was this picture of an Indian that prompted that idea, but I think you must have seen this before.
SB,,, I am sure that you know the whole thought process would take alot more time to explain than what I have done here, this just gives you a small glimpse of the stuff running around in my head.
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truckd
Well-Known Member
I like your oil primer,it adds a good look to the bike and mounting it to the tool box looks good! where would you run your plumbing too? what ever I put on my bike I'd like it to have a function even if it is it is slightly a different function then what it was originally used for.
dracothered
New Member
Maybe you could use it as a fuel primer to prime the carb instead of one of those little squeeze bulbs.
Whozawhat
New Member
No matter where the oil pump goes, in the fuel tank or on the tool box if it is converted to an oil tank, the plumbing will run to a fitting on the engine crankcase. It may also feed to bearings in the jackshaft housing, I have yet to decide if the jackshaft housing will have a separate drip feed oiler or be tied into the pump system. The pump will have all the items of a functioning oil system, enough to make you think hmmm I wonder.
The carb has a tickle button to depress the float to prime the carb, no squeeze bulb.
The carb has a tickle button to depress the float to prime the carb, no squeeze bulb.
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Excellent and innovative use of electric motor end frames. The whole package looks great. I may have to build one.
I scored a couple of nice Maytags today. My buddy Harold and I found and restored these two over 20 years ago and they have never been run since. They also came with a box of assorted Maytag collectibles.
I would like to see a single cylinder Maytag bike, but your twin is too nice. Perfect engine location and mounting fab work.
I scored a couple of nice Maytags today. My buddy Harold and I found and restored these two over 20 years ago and they have never been run since. They also came with a box of assorted Maytag collectibles.
I would like to see a single cylinder Maytag bike, but your twin is too nice. Perfect engine location and mounting fab work.