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  • Hey rob thanks for the comment about my drifter. I didn't see your comment until tonight. Been busy working and doing updates on mine. Still doing updates. Adding sprocket adapter, loosing the rag joint and adding rear Worksman wheel. Great wheel but pricey.
    hello robbomberbomyea, thanks for post on which motor kit i should buy. i think i'm going go with the you suggested from piratecycles. the big plus being the large downtube u bolt for mounting the motor. my bike is a schwinn cruiser and this is the bolt i need. agian thats for the advice. btw is that the motor on sgt. scruffy huffy? great bike.
    News Flash: I came up with another way it seems I'll do away with the seat post all together and make brackets to attach to the seat post clamp and have it go to the seat clamp modified to accept the bracket I make.

    One other thing, why I didn't think about it first, I will try 1st to cut off top of the narrowed section of the seat post tube at the top, it won't affect the clamping force any. The buldge on the top of the seat post is I suppose so it does not fall down the tube. Not likely on my bike, but I see about an inch I can remove atop that and the seat will hover above the down tube by a minute amount.

    I have a banana seat that I am thinking of taking the upholstery off of to move the seat clamp back a few inches.

    Just wondering if the bend tabs (about 10 of them) will allow being opened and close to facilitate my work. I thought of drilling out the four rivets and using my pop rivet gun or flat head 8-32 screws to reattach further back.

    If they are to break I think there may still be a way to have the fabric/plastic hold by fender washers and screw and nuts.

    I may not be doing this at all, but am figuring on how to get the seat even lower than it can go on the seat post.

    If I made a lay back seat post that the top was lower than the top of the down tube, that is what I was thinking.

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