The Rustoration Build Off
- Thread starter BarelyAWake
- Start date
BarelyAWake, Thats true about the metal bender but then it does free up $50 for the needed bike extras. There are needed extras aren't there?
Going out today to get parts for the sidecar undercarriage. Going to get the rest of the interior done in the sidecar so will try and get photos on sunday. Mabey some idea of what I think the undercarraige should look like according to me.
Been a string of doctors appointments holding things up. Figure since I lived this long I better start taking care of my self.
Dentist next week. That will slow things up about ten days.
Like the beast of a machine at work. Do they make a bench model?
Steve.
Going out today to get parts for the sidecar undercarriage. Going to get the rest of the interior done in the sidecar so will try and get photos on sunday. Mabey some idea of what I think the undercarraige should look like according to me.
Been a string of doctors appointments holding things up. Figure since I lived this long I better start taking care of my self.
Dentist next week. That will slow things up about ten days.
Like the beast of a machine at work. Do they make a bench model?
Steve.
Extras? No... every shineh thing is desperately needed ofc. Oh and BTW - every time ya go to the doc's they find somethin' wrong... so I never go and thus I'm in perfect health... right? mebbe... meh - I hate those guys o.o
BTW I bumped into this site as I was a wanderin' and lookin' for pics of the original paint scheme for the Rollfast's fenders (the frame paint was intact but the fenders... well, they weren't lol). I found the pics I was lookin' for and a whole lot more - ya'll outa check it out (if ya've not already), it's a big help if yer tryin to figure out year/make/model and what a vintage bike mighta looked like before the house paint got slapped up on there. The main also crosslinks to whatever happens to be on ebay for the bike yer lookin' at, I thunk it pretty cool lol
Mainsite;
Dave's Vintage Bicycles
Pic archive (takes a lil while to load);
Nostalgic.net - Antique and Classic Bicycles
...and the paint scheme for mine bike (will be black detail on gray base but ya get the idea);
BTW I bumped into this site as I was a wanderin' and lookin' for pics of the original paint scheme for the Rollfast's fenders (the frame paint was intact but the fenders... well, they weren't lol). I found the pics I was lookin' for and a whole lot more - ya'll outa check it out (if ya've not already), it's a big help if yer tryin to figure out year/make/model and what a vintage bike mighta looked like before the house paint got slapped up on there. The main also crosslinks to whatever happens to be on ebay for the bike yer lookin' at, I thunk it pretty cool lol
Mainsite;
Dave's Vintage Bicycles
Pic archive (takes a lil while to load);
Nostalgic.net - Antique and Classic Bicycles
...and the paint scheme for mine bike (will be black detail on gray base but ya get the idea);
Nothing new to report here, but a little bit of fender work.
Bairdco, too bad about the little bike. It would be cool to see, but no doubt you are right about the investment vs return.
Barely, pretty neat graphics on that Rollfast. Will you do all that by hand? Looks like another tutorial is in order.
Steve, hope your medical tests went well and you get good grades... did you study? Like Barely, I no longer go to doctors. I spent a lot of time and money learning there were no treatment plans for brain trauma from lightning injury and nothing for the partial paralysis of GBS (but come back for another visit anyway and we can do some more tests). One really nasty series involved needles stuck into my feet, hands, arms and legs which were hooked up to an electronic device which gave shocks... not so bad on the dead parts, but hurt like **** where the nerves were still working. I don't think I was imagining the slight smile on the lady tech who administered it. Maybe I looked like her X. Anyway, if you don't go they can't tell you anything bad... true enough.
SB
Bairdco, too bad about the little bike. It would be cool to see, but no doubt you are right about the investment vs return.
Barely, pretty neat graphics on that Rollfast. Will you do all that by hand? Looks like another tutorial is in order.
Steve, hope your medical tests went well and you get good grades... did you study? Like Barely, I no longer go to doctors. I spent a lot of time and money learning there were no treatment plans for brain trauma from lightning injury and nothing for the partial paralysis of GBS (but come back for another visit anyway and we can do some more tests). One really nasty series involved needles stuck into my feet, hands, arms and legs which were hooked up to an electronic device which gave shocks... not so bad on the dead parts, but hurt like **** where the nerves were still working. I don't think I was imagining the slight smile on the lady tech who administered it. Maybe I looked like her X. Anyway, if you don't go they can't tell you anything bad... true enough.
SB
Silver Bear, one was a test for blood sugar and then new glasses and the last was the dentist to see about getting the last of them pulled and dentures. I have a thing about dentists so it's been a long time. Next Wed at 2pm. I'll be out of action for a while I'm sure.
I went through the same tests and they threw in my hands as well since I had carpal tunnel. You have to have it done to fully understand the moment.
Got some parts to work on the sidecar mount. Want to keep the welding to a minimum so that anyone doing one on a budget will be able to use what I dream up as a base to make one. The pros will make anything they need.
Will get photos up on Sunday afternoon.
Steve.
I went through the same tests and they threw in my hands as well since I had carpal tunnel. You have to have it done to fully understand the moment.
Got some parts to work on the sidecar mount. Want to keep the welding to a minimum so that anyone doing one on a budget will be able to use what I dream up as a base to make one. The pros will make anything they need.
Will get photos up on Sunday afternoon.
Steve.
Whoohoo! The shaping of the tank panels is pretty much done, I need to take about 1/8-1/16" off the sides of the bottom panel to conform to the taper of the sides in just the back (and only 'bout 2" needs that touch up) - but that will be a heck of a lot simpler when it's all tack welded together and I can just grind it flush. As you can see in the pics, the tape isn't all that happy 'bout holdin' all the parts of the tank together at the same time lol
As you can see I also managed to dig up the lil brass elbows for the fuel sight gauge, they're exactly what I was hoping to find - with only an 1/8" OD on the chunk of line, it's sits flush with the tank side and the heads of the elbow fittings so it only protrudes from the tank 1/8". They're hex heads and I thought about rounding them (don't need a wrench to tighten) but I think the "bolt" head matches the rest of the look.
If anyone wants more specifics in those brass elbows, just ask. I'm sure they're a commonplace fitting because after a few hours searchin' the back rooms where I work I found a bunch of them buried with other assorted fittings in a forgotten junk drawer. I need but ask one of the other guys what they're for/part number.
I still need to cut the holes for the various hardware bits and have the backings welded (and trim/clean the hardware too ofc), but although I'm sure I (or anyone trying this) can do it with just a drill and/or Dremel I think it's also going to wait till I bring the panels in to work so I can use the hydraulic punch for nice, clean, slightly beveled holes.
As you can see I also managed to dig up the lil brass elbows for the fuel sight gauge, they're exactly what I was hoping to find - with only an 1/8" OD on the chunk of line, it's sits flush with the tank side and the heads of the elbow fittings so it only protrudes from the tank 1/8". They're hex heads and I thought about rounding them (don't need a wrench to tighten) but I think the "bolt" head matches the rest of the look.
If anyone wants more specifics in those brass elbows, just ask. I'm sure they're a commonplace fitting because after a few hours searchin' the back rooms where I work I found a bunch of them buried with other assorted fittings in a forgotten junk drawer. I need but ask one of the other guys what they're for/part number.
I still need to cut the holes for the various hardware bits and have the backings welded (and trim/clean the hardware too ofc), but although I'm sure I (or anyone trying this) can do it with just a drill and/or Dremel I think it's also going to wait till I bring the panels in to work so I can use the hydraulic punch for nice, clean, slightly beveled holes.
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... yesterday wasa busy day for yours truly - not only did I manage to finish the tank panel shaping, I gota few more shiny (well mebbe not so shiny yet) bits for my bike FTW! A chainguard that while it's the wrong year/make - actually fits over the SBP freewheeling sprockets, a relief because despite it being the wrong chainguard it'll look a heck of a lot closer than the clear plastic guard ring that came with the shiftkit and I'm too much of a coward to run w/o one... I suspect at speed that big sprocket is gonna be a little too similar to a circular saw blade for comfort lol
Gota better seat with beefier springs that I'll still need to recover (it's thrashed AND red, well a gross orange/pink from age) and two headlights - the one I'm using is the larger one 'cause it's got a built in horn (works) and the "eyebrow" I like, the other is for parts.
In the bottom left of the pic is my taillight-to-be, it was just a glass reflector ofa gawd knows what with nothing but a metal backing with one bolt - I've removed it and to my unending amusement found it fits perfectly in a flashlight, replacing the lens. So I'll be using the bits of flashlight to make my taillight, beveling the housing to seat on the rounded surface of the rear fender... when it gets here.
YAY more stuff to hafta sand n'paint
Gota better seat with beefier springs that I'll still need to recover (it's thrashed AND red, well a gross orange/pink from age) and two headlights - the one I'm using is the larger one 'cause it's got a built in horn (works) and the "eyebrow" I like, the other is for parts.
In the bottom left of the pic is my taillight-to-be, it was just a glass reflector ofa gawd knows what with nothing but a metal backing with one bolt - I've removed it and to my unending amusement found it fits perfectly in a flashlight, replacing the lens. So I'll be using the bits of flashlight to make my taillight, beveling the housing to seat on the rounded surface of the rear fender... when it gets here.
YAY more stuff to hafta sand n'paint
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Oh boy, the dentist... I cringe thinking about it. I read somewhere that among professional people dentists have a high rate of depression and suicides. I would guess it is a result of all the pain they bring and how people tend to avoid them. Kind of like hanging out with a mortician for fun, I guess. Anyway, this too will pass and then no more teeth problems. I'm still hanging on to mine, or the survivors anyway. Go easy, rest up and think about the sidecar mounts...
SB
Barely,
Once again I found myself with a smile on my face as I looked over your photos and commentary. That tank is a thing of beauty and the brass sight gauge fittings are perfect. I would like to know what they're from. I have something similar from an outboard motor tank, but it is for at least a quarter inch line and something smaller and snug to the tank would be lots better like yours. The chain guard looks similar to one I tossed last summer from a Schwinn exercise bike I was robbing for parts (goose neck and handlebars are on the Elgin). I should have kept it as my wish list down the road includes one of those shift kits. I especially like your jewel of a tail light. Very cool and different. The bike is awesome. Not only will it be a looker, but also a great rider, no doubt.
I am dearly sick of my fenders, but persist. In spite of encouragement from those with poor eyesight, they do not look so good. I am no body man, that's for sure. It's winter and I can't ride anyway, so will keep trying. I agree with a comment Steve made about starting out with the best parts you can afford. These fenders of mine should be worth a fortune for all the time and grief involved.
SB
Once again I found myself with a smile on my face as I looked over your photos and commentary. That tank is a thing of beauty and the brass sight gauge fittings are perfect. I would like to know what they're from. I have something similar from an outboard motor tank, but it is for at least a quarter inch line and something smaller and snug to the tank would be lots better like yours. The chain guard looks similar to one I tossed last summer from a Schwinn exercise bike I was robbing for parts (goose neck and handlebars are on the Elgin). I should have kept it as my wish list down the road includes one of those shift kits. I especially like your jewel of a tail light. Very cool and different. The bike is awesome. Not only will it be a looker, but also a great rider, no doubt.
I am dearly sick of my fenders, but persist. In spite of encouragement from those with poor eyesight, they do not look so good. I am no body man, that's for sure. It's winter and I can't ride anyway, so will keep trying. I agree with a comment Steve made about starting out with the best parts you can afford. These fenders of mine should be worth a fortune for all the time and grief involved.
SB
While I'm hardly one to talk as I gave up quick on mine lol - what's the problem yer havin with your fenders silverbear? I've actually done a buncha bodywork and I only "scrapped" the fender project when I realized there'd be no point in it as there's nothing unique about them (and I no likie fillwork lol).
I know you are/were using JBWeld for at least a base fill and I really respect that as it's defo a good, strong way to go - but I was also thinkin' that not only must it be a real pain to work as it's super hard stuff, but the "particles" embedded in it may be somewhat large - making the "feathering" process a bit of a nightmare.
If it's indeed that part that's troublesome, have you tried the "fine" finishing fillers? With the JB as a base it'd be plenty strong and have good adhesion. I used to use what I called "greenfill" a super-fine fill made for the last stages and detail work, I'm sure Bondo makes an equivalent (bondo itself being way too coarse). Another tactic that can be used w/it is to simply slather it on, covering the damage and entire area surrounding it (the whole fender if need be) and using a long, flexable sanding block (longboard) to regain it's round (1/8" thick (or less) plywood or similar, bend while using to match curve) ... with 80gt to shape, another coat(s), 120-180 to finish, and 220+ to detail, it outa go pretty quick (use stickyback paper on board), whereas w/JBWeld that be a quick way to drive yerself insane lol
example of a flexible longboard used for fairing boat hulls (too big for bike fenders but same concept);
3M Marine Hookit Fairing Longboards 4-1/2 inches wide x 30 inches long
Havin' said that - there's nothing harder to get a nice, uniform fill on than an outside curve (and sorry if ya've heard alla this bfore)... thus my decision to just not deal w/it
Yeah, I was lookin' for an original style Rollfast reflector but when that glass one turned up I couldn't resist, those brass elbows I'll ask about tomorrow np man
I know you are/were using JBWeld for at least a base fill and I really respect that as it's defo a good, strong way to go - but I was also thinkin' that not only must it be a real pain to work as it's super hard stuff, but the "particles" embedded in it may be somewhat large - making the "feathering" process a bit of a nightmare.
If it's indeed that part that's troublesome, have you tried the "fine" finishing fillers? With the JB as a base it'd be plenty strong and have good adhesion. I used to use what I called "greenfill" a super-fine fill made for the last stages and detail work, I'm sure Bondo makes an equivalent (bondo itself being way too coarse). Another tactic that can be used w/it is to simply slather it on, covering the damage and entire area surrounding it (the whole fender if need be) and using a long, flexable sanding block (longboard) to regain it's round (1/8" thick (or less) plywood or similar, bend while using to match curve) ... with 80gt to shape, another coat(s), 120-180 to finish, and 220+ to detail, it outa go pretty quick (use stickyback paper on board), whereas w/JBWeld that be a quick way to drive yerself insane lol
example of a flexible longboard used for fairing boat hulls (too big for bike fenders but same concept);
3M Marine Hookit Fairing Longboards 4-1/2 inches wide x 30 inches long
Havin' said that - there's nothing harder to get a nice, uniform fill on than an outside curve (and sorry if ya've heard alla this bfore)... thus my decision to just not deal w/it
Yeah, I was lookin' for an original style Rollfast reflector but when that glass one turned up I couldn't resist, those brass elbows I'll ask about tomorrow np man
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Figured while we're on the subject of detailin' "cheats" I figured I'd share the one I'm usin' to do the Rollfast's somewhat... busy paint job. I'm no artist and that's a fact - I need tools and stuff to draw even the most basic of shapes.
The original paint job for the "deluxe" Rollfasts calls for a LOT of pin striping, worse yet - three stripes right next to each other, per side, per fender. The only way to get stripes parallel easily w/o tools is stickers made that way... and I don't like stickers. Masking is tricky, time consuming, and even with the very best tape it can "wick" paint under it (more likely w/a curved stripe on a curved surface) and ruin the job.
They make an awesome tool for the job and I've used it (with some practice) to easily do some basic pin stripes, but the good ones start at around $100 and the cheap ones aren't worth buying;
Beugler Pro Pinstriping Kit and DVD
BTW - those bars are standoffs so you can run along, following a fender lip or seam and can be cobbed together for this trick too.
For about $10 you can get all the materials for the more ghetto approach ifn yer a cheap, lazy bastid like me. It doesn't look quite as sharp, more a hand painted look... but that's fine, even wanted for this project. Grab a roll of magnetic tape, for this - the cheaper the better 'cause the sticky stuff you don't need peels right off it, particularly if you stick it in the freezer for a while first (not great if you wanted to use it for what it's meant for lol). For curves I cut it in 1/2 or less lengthwise so it bends easily and with just a paint marker, trace along it's edge and that's it (mebbe another coat after it dries). With a new marker (so the tip is nice) when you hold it upright none of the paint touches the seam between magnet and metal because of the rounded tip so it can't seep between the two.
Sure the paint won't last as long as a proper automotive grade, but it lasts a good long while, comes in a buncha colors (even metallics) and it's so easy to touch up and/or recoat - does it matter? It'll gloss up quite a bit with just some light polishing with a soft cloth (high gloss w/wax) and only takes a few practice runs to get the hang of it.
As you can also see in the pic, I'm playing around with an "arrow" trace template made out of that same magnetic tape. As there's six of that size and I may add another six smaller ones (to mask inevitable scratches around dropouts) I really don't wanna try and freehand them. As a trace instead of a mask I'll need to brush them in (paint markers are no good for large areas and you can't make masks w/mag tape 'cause it'll seep) but that's just "paint by numbers" and no artsy skills involved heh I'll be making a better one when I get an Xacto knife - this box cutter just isn't workin' out lol
I also threw that example together in a hurry jus' for the pic, it's possible to do a nicer job (the paint also works FAR better on a painted surface, not just a chunk of raw scrap steel lol) - for less than ten bucks give it a coupla practice tries and see whatcha think if ya wanna stripe a bike *shrug*
The original paint job for the "deluxe" Rollfasts calls for a LOT of pin striping, worse yet - three stripes right next to each other, per side, per fender. The only way to get stripes parallel easily w/o tools is stickers made that way... and I don't like stickers. Masking is tricky, time consuming, and even with the very best tape it can "wick" paint under it (more likely w/a curved stripe on a curved surface) and ruin the job.
They make an awesome tool for the job and I've used it (with some practice) to easily do some basic pin stripes, but the good ones start at around $100 and the cheap ones aren't worth buying;
Beugler Pro Pinstriping Kit and DVD
BTW - those bars are standoffs so you can run along, following a fender lip or seam and can be cobbed together for this trick too.
For about $10 you can get all the materials for the more ghetto approach ifn yer a cheap, lazy bastid like me. It doesn't look quite as sharp, more a hand painted look... but that's fine, even wanted for this project. Grab a roll of magnetic tape, for this - the cheaper the better 'cause the sticky stuff you don't need peels right off it, particularly if you stick it in the freezer for a while first (not great if you wanted to use it for what it's meant for lol). For curves I cut it in 1/2 or less lengthwise so it bends easily and with just a paint marker, trace along it's edge and that's it (mebbe another coat after it dries). With a new marker (so the tip is nice) when you hold it upright none of the paint touches the seam between magnet and metal because of the rounded tip so it can't seep between the two.
Sure the paint won't last as long as a proper automotive grade, but it lasts a good long while, comes in a buncha colors (even metallics) and it's so easy to touch up and/or recoat - does it matter? It'll gloss up quite a bit with just some light polishing with a soft cloth (high gloss w/wax) and only takes a few practice runs to get the hang of it.
As you can also see in the pic, I'm playing around with an "arrow" trace template made out of that same magnetic tape. As there's six of that size and I may add another six smaller ones (to mask inevitable scratches around dropouts) I really don't wanna try and freehand them. As a trace instead of a mask I'll need to brush them in (paint markers are no good for large areas and you can't make masks w/mag tape 'cause it'll seep) but that's just "paint by numbers" and no artsy skills involved heh I'll be making a better one when I get an Xacto knife - this box cutter just isn't workin' out lol
I also threw that example together in a hurry jus' for the pic, it's possible to do a nicer job (the paint also works FAR better on a painted surface, not just a chunk of raw scrap steel lol) - for less than ten bucks give it a coupla practice tries and see whatcha think if ya wanna stripe a bike *shrug*
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Silver Bear I guess for me it's suck it up and go time. A little pain will go away and the problem is solved.
Heard that dentists had a high rate of problems.
Funny thing you mentioned morticians. I have a good friend who was one and there was no more fun person to be around. When people pushed him as to what he did for a living and you had to push him hard, he would just say I'm in death care and walk away.
Anyone who pushed really hard to get him to talk about what it was like, he just invited you down to watch him work. Never had any takers as I remember.
He quit after a lot of years and became a cop. He figured that he would just as soon pass the old job on those that wanted it.
Going to start the sidecar mounts right now.
Steve.
Heard that dentists had a high rate of problems.
Funny thing you mentioned morticians. I have a good friend who was one and there was no more fun person to be around. When people pushed him as to what he did for a living and you had to push him hard, he would just say I'm in death care and walk away.
Anyone who pushed really hard to get him to talk about what it was like, he just invited you down to watch him work. Never had any takers as I remember.
He quit after a lot of years and became a cop. He figured that he would just as soon pass the old job on those that wanted it.
Going to start the sidecar mounts right now.
Steve.
Barely AWake you better be ready to take tank orders man! The way that little darling is shaping up I'd go and find a Rollfast just so I could have a tank like that.
Did I just hear you move the invisable bar up two notches?
Steve.
Did I just hear you move the invisable bar up two notches?
Steve.
Well that idea tanked due to the high end materials I was able to buy.
Try again tomorrow.
Steve
Try again tomorrow.
Steve
Tank orders? ROFLMFAO!
No.
I know yer just kiddin' around but it does bring up a subject I've considered a bit lol - Despite how I've said that making yer own is comparatively easy and that if people want one to make the panels themselves and just have it welded as to save on astronomically high labor rates - it's something done out of love for the hobby and not something I could see having a profit margin high enough to cover labor cost...
Ofc I'm at the "tired and annoyed" stage of tank building, making a one-off like this is an experimentation process I'm not particularly fond of. Had I a more common bike (or if someone just happens to have a 40's Rollfast) I'd be more than happy to freely share the templates, but in all honesty for production - it'd need to be unpainted fiberglass tanks in order to have any sort of price I'd be remotely comfortable askin' for (and to be able to sell enough of them to make it "worth" it).
It's a bit of a shame really, I discussed this with my friend (the one who will be welding it) at length and there's two stages that are problematic - welding, which really needs to be TIG and by someone with no small skill at it, but the bigger problem being cutting, bending, and fitting the panels and unless those panels could be stamped out there's no way to cut costs on that at all - particularly the "fitting" process.
What makes it even more troublesome is the welding itself is somewhat tricky, should it go badly it's ruin all the previous work in less than a second, not a problem if you're stamping out blanks - a BIG problem if you're shaping these by hand and trying to just cut even or make a profit (brazing them may be an alternative...would need testing).
Yeah - I'm a lil nervous about the welding stage, can you tell? heh, I've insisted my friend practice a bit before zappin' my tank
Had this bike been a Worksman I'd be quite tempted to use the tank I just made as a plug to make a mold, round the corners a bit and do some 'glass layups (prolly Kevlar actually). With a fiberglass tank the biggest problem is just finding a source for a good fuel fill & cap, the rest being comparatively simple finish work. Once the mold(s) are made it's really quite easy and any "oops" are not a problem to fill/fix.
Still - even with a bike still in production, is there enough demand for in-frame tanks? Would the availability of inexpensive tanks increase that demand? Honestly I think for it to be anything other than amusement or as a hobby in itself you'd hafta contract with the bike manufacturer as has been discussed somewhat in another thread: http://motorbicycling.com/f38/signup-worksman-2-build-inb-board-9782.html
Even then unless you had other products, you happened to be a vendor anyway (there are some considering it) - I just don't see it as feasible... for now boardtrackers and vintage bikes with in-frame tanks will hafta continue being jus' a labor of love and a rolling example of someone's obsessive nature and addiction to this hobby. I hope that even with just a tutorial showing it's not actually impossible to make yer own there'll be a few more out there
No.
I know yer just kiddin' around but it does bring up a subject I've considered a bit lol - Despite how I've said that making yer own is comparatively easy and that if people want one to make the panels themselves and just have it welded as to save on astronomically high labor rates - it's something done out of love for the hobby and not something I could see having a profit margin high enough to cover labor cost...
Ofc I'm at the "tired and annoyed" stage of tank building, making a one-off like this is an experimentation process I'm not particularly fond of. Had I a more common bike (or if someone just happens to have a 40's Rollfast) I'd be more than happy to freely share the templates, but in all honesty for production - it'd need to be unpainted fiberglass tanks in order to have any sort of price I'd be remotely comfortable askin' for (and to be able to sell enough of them to make it "worth" it).
It's a bit of a shame really, I discussed this with my friend (the one who will be welding it) at length and there's two stages that are problematic - welding, which really needs to be TIG and by someone with no small skill at it, but the bigger problem being cutting, bending, and fitting the panels and unless those panels could be stamped out there's no way to cut costs on that at all - particularly the "fitting" process.
What makes it even more troublesome is the welding itself is somewhat tricky, should it go badly it's ruin all the previous work in less than a second, not a problem if you're stamping out blanks - a BIG problem if you're shaping these by hand and trying to just cut even or make a profit (brazing them may be an alternative...would need testing).
Yeah - I'm a lil nervous about the welding stage, can you tell? heh, I've insisted my friend practice a bit before zappin' my tank
Had this bike been a Worksman I'd be quite tempted to use the tank I just made as a plug to make a mold, round the corners a bit and do some 'glass layups (prolly Kevlar actually). With a fiberglass tank the biggest problem is just finding a source for a good fuel fill & cap, the rest being comparatively simple finish work. Once the mold(s) are made it's really quite easy and any "oops" are not a problem to fill/fix.
Still - even with a bike still in production, is there enough demand for in-frame tanks? Would the availability of inexpensive tanks increase that demand? Honestly I think for it to be anything other than amusement or as a hobby in itself you'd hafta contract with the bike manufacturer as has been discussed somewhat in another thread: http://motorbicycling.com/f38/signup-worksman-2-build-inb-board-9782.html
Even then unless you had other products, you happened to be a vendor anyway (there are some considering it) - I just don't see it as feasible... for now boardtrackers and vintage bikes with in-frame tanks will hafta continue being jus' a labor of love and a rolling example of someone's obsessive nature and addiction to this hobby. I hope that even with just a tutorial showing it's not actually impossible to make yer own there'll be a few more out there
I would argue that with you but then I said if YOU are making the tanks for the very same reasons you mentioned.
If the demand was there for a tank for an available bike like Worksman, then you would have to consider the two different frames they sell and the modified one they are going to make and then it's pressing the tank{way to expensive} or fiberglass/kevlar.
As you said it's everyone for themselves or call Orange County Choppers.
Steve.
If the demand was there for a tank for an available bike like Worksman, then you would have to consider the two different frames they sell and the modified one they are going to make and then it's pressing the tank{way to expensive} or fiberglass/kevlar.
As you said it's everyone for themselves or call Orange County Choppers.
Steve.
Lol fasteddy, sorry 'bout that - I kinda dragged you into an argument I'm havin' with myself and got carried away a bit (I'm stubborn and often don't listen to myself which ofc pisses me off at me).
On the one hand I'd LOVE to kick out a product for these MBs... on the other, I'm not so fond of bein' a business owner of any sort - even that small a scale.
On the one hand I'd LOVE to kick out a product for these MBs... on the other, I'm not so fond of bein' a business owner of any sort - even that small a scale.
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BarelyAWake, like my scottish grandmother, I love a good arguement but I always try to be gone before the shooting starts.
I agree with you about making things. Spent most of my life making furniture and refinishing it.
Don't want the pressure of having to do something because there are people waiting for the product. Then you have to hope they like it.
Steve.
I agree with you about making things. Spent most of my life making furniture and refinishing it.
Don't want the pressure of having to do something because there are people waiting for the product. Then you have to hope they like it.
Steve.
Hi guys,
I have been following this thread a bit and see lots of discussion around in-frame tanks. I have some experience in this area and have discovered a few interesting facts. First things first, almost everyone building a bike that has a three-bar design wants an in-frame tank. Of all the motorbikes being built only a few of them are of this frame configuration. What I am getting at is the market is there but it is small. So, of the few people actually wanting/needing a tank like this, only a small percentage of them will spend the cash necessary to have one made. I get requests all the time but when people discover how much I have to charge, most don't get back to me. No big deal as I have a day job and spare time is precious. I have sold enough to know that I can sell more if I focus on larger markets. Is the Worksman INB frame the larger market? It could be, but I doubt it. I figure I could sell one or two Worksman tanks a month and that combined with Schwinn Panther tanks will be more than enough. I now have a Worksman INB frame to start the tank design and it will be similar in quality and design to the tanks I currently build. Once the design is finalized I can get the sheetmetal accurately cut for a resonable price but then have to spend a solid 6 hours welding and finishing. It's the labor that drives up the price. Just my thoughts and I hope this isn't considered thread hijacking.
I have been following this thread a bit and see lots of discussion around in-frame tanks. I have some experience in this area and have discovered a few interesting facts. First things first, almost everyone building a bike that has a three-bar design wants an in-frame tank. Of all the motorbikes being built only a few of them are of this frame configuration. What I am getting at is the market is there but it is small. So, of the few people actually wanting/needing a tank like this, only a small percentage of them will spend the cash necessary to have one made. I get requests all the time but when people discover how much I have to charge, most don't get back to me. No big deal as I have a day job and spare time is precious. I have sold enough to know that I can sell more if I focus on larger markets. Is the Worksman INB frame the larger market? It could be, but I doubt it. I figure I could sell one or two Worksman tanks a month and that combined with Schwinn Panther tanks will be more than enough. I now have a Worksman INB frame to start the tank design and it will be similar in quality and design to the tanks I currently build. Once the design is finalized I can get the sheetmetal accurately cut for a resonable price but then have to spend a solid 6 hours welding and finishing. It's the labor that drives up the price. Just my thoughts and I hope this isn't considered thread hijacking.