Oh, btw Silverbear, after some puzzling with the engine I got more space above the engine. I will construct some sort of tank made out of bean canisters or similar. I bought some soldering material the other day.
Hey - while makin' yer own tank outa cans is ofc the coolest thing in the world, have you considered the ol' fire extinguisher as a fuel tank trick? With a nicely tapered "front" and a good, heavy gauge steel it may be easier to make than the cans. The "Kiddie" automotive sized ones outa be about the perfect size too. Ifn it's not long 'nuff or yer goin' for extra style - get two, cut 'em up and have both ends tapered. While it'd be best to have 'em welded - that'd be quick and cheap;
My tank progress has been... intermittent. Between alla drama of a flooded house and ofc bein' in the middle of my work week I've not had a lot of freedom to jus' sit down and doodle. Still - I've done three test layouts for the top and bottom panels, the first two proving yet again that there's a huge difference between "planning" and the real world lol
My first idea was to have a somewhat angular tank, sorta coffin shaped if viewed from above. It's quite important for the tank to have a fairly abrupt taper in the front as the rear forks for the springer will hit it when I turn the handlebars all the way to one side or the other. Too wide and I'll limit the steering - too narrow and I'll not only have a dang strange lookin' tank, it wont hold much and I'd be forced into havin' a pinhole for a fuel fill. While the cap will be smaller than normal - I really
don't want to be forced into using a funnel to fill the blasted thing.
So while the angular tank looked great in my brain, when I got around to draftin' out the shapes it jus' didn't work. Sure - I got it to all "fit together" (sketched out anyway) but it jus' looked stupid as heck. The sides will be rounded front and rear (they're only angled in the pics 'cause I've not ground the rounds yet) and the clash of rounds and angles combined with the gently swooping frame was too much to bear. Additionally, the taper in the front needed to be so abrupt to give me the flat sides where I wanted 'em... well... trust me - it looked
really bad lol
No materials wasted tho, as I didn't cut anything and it's funny how easily Sharpie wipes off with a lil acetone FTW. My second attempt was similar to the first just with the bends/angles in slightly different places, but with the same disastrous results - they offended mine eyes. More acetone and back to the drawing board.
I really don't know
why I had my heart set on angles... they don't make the math any easier and the Rollfast is all curves so I shoulda known better *shrug* For whatever reason that's what I had envisioned from the moment I thought about makin' a tank and bein' a stubborn fool I ignored alla my past experience and tried to make it work anyway. Sure - I could
make it work, I've even finally figured out where the bends need to be - but on my third attempt I jus' grabbed a batten (jus' a thin strip of scrap plywood to plot curves, ply so the grain doesn't effect anything) and did a test curve... lo and behold, a classic curve pleasing to the eye with alla various widths in all the right places
BTW, battens are also handy for figurin' out what the length of a curve is if flattened out - bend the batten to the curve - mark, flatten and measure. Ya can use a bit o'string... but it tends to get all squirrely on ya.
K - so I'm going to have a curved tank then heh, it's sometimes a lot better to listen to what the materials have to say than my silly brain;
This is actually just my test piece - I'll be cutting out just the top half of the drawing, the bottom isn't to scale and is just there to help me envision the shape. Once the top half is cut, I'll use it as a trace template and flip it over to get as close to a symmetrical, mirrored shape as possible. While battens are great for plotting nice curves - you'll never get quite the same shape twice so it's best to not rely on 'em too much. The 1" band going down the middle is the top tube of the frame, the straight lines comin' off the ends are for the wrap-arounds front and rear. As they'll need to be some mysterious hourglass shape from the sides tapering in - I'm gonna wait till the rest is cut and I can bend them into place and trace. Yeah, I could use the ol' math... but we've already discussed the insidious shortcomings of my brain;
While it's all ready for the jigsaw... it's also about 5:30am here and despite all my threats of audio revenge - I'm still jus' not bastid 'nuff to make screamin' sheet metal death noises and wake the entire house.
Ah well.