sprocket aligning
- Thread starter jmr3394
- Start date
Venice Motor Bikes
Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
You're talking about bolting on the rear sprocket I assume?
Bolt it on & leave all the bolts loose.
Then spin the wheel & watch the tips of the sprocket teeth as they spin & tap the sprocket around with a soft hammer until the sprocket spins straight.
Then tighten the bolts a little bit in a 'star pattern' & recheck if its still straight, (if not, then tap it some more) then tighten them a little more & recheck.
Keep repeating this until the bolts are tight & the sprocket spins perfectly true!
Bolt it on & leave all the bolts loose.
Then spin the wheel & watch the tips of the sprocket teeth as they spin & tap the sprocket around with a soft hammer until the sprocket spins straight.
Then tighten the bolts a little bit in a 'star pattern' & recheck if its still straight, (if not, then tap it some more) then tighten them a little more & recheck.
Keep repeating this until the bolts are tight & the sprocket spins perfectly true!
Question for you Venice. I noticed most of your bikes don't have the chain tensioners. Do you prefer not to use them?
I just put a 66cc slant in a Nirve Red Star having problems with noise near the drive sprocket. It appears that the rear sprocket is not true enough because as I roll the bike I get tight chain tension and then slack tension. Is it best to true up the rear sprocket, adjust drive chain,a nd then adjust pedal chain? I'm getting frustrated with the chain problems.
Also the chain I got with the kit measures .145. Would that be considered #410 chain? What are your thoughts on the different size chains?
I just put a 66cc slant in a Nirve Red Star having problems with noise near the drive sprocket. It appears that the rear sprocket is not true enough because as I roll the bike I get tight chain tension and then slack tension. Is it best to true up the rear sprocket, adjust drive chain,a nd then adjust pedal chain? I'm getting frustrated with the chain problems.
Also the chain I got with the kit measures .145. Would that be considered #410 chain? What are your thoughts on the different size chains?
Mind_Reader7
New Member
The stock one is #415, #410 is stronger/more common, and will fit just fine, it's just a little wider. No one likes using chain tensioners, they're made by the devil. If there's too much slack in your chain, get a half link.
Im still a bit confused on the chain. I looked up the specs and found the following:
#410 - .125 between plates.
#415 - .187 between plates.
#41 - .250 between plates.
I can get a #27 (.144) drill between the narrowest part of the chain. I was assuming that may be a #410 chain - the narrowest.
#410 - .125 between plates.
#415 - .187 between plates.
#41 - .250 between plates.
I can get a #27 (.144) drill between the narrowest part of the chain. I was assuming that may be a #410 chain - the narrowest.
BlueBloodCycles
New Member
Alot of people dont run tensioners...they are unneeded if your sprocket is true and chain is tensioned properly. The true-ness of the drive sprocket is imperative.
Al.Fisherman
New Member
Secure the axle in something like a vice. Hang a plumb over the sprocket and turn wheel. Tighten a little at a time.
Last edited:
BarelyAWake
New Member
This is true - but bear in mind some builds unfortunately need to run a tensioner simply to reroute the chain back & over the chainstay as some bikes haven't the clearance. http://motorbicycling.com/f11/chain-tensioner-suggestions-11815.html
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
You're talking about bolting on the rear sprocket I assume?
Bolt it on & leave all the bolts loose.
Then spin the wheel & watch the tips of the sprocket teeth as they spin & tap the sprocket around with a soft hammer until the sprocket spins straight.
Then tighten the bolts a little bit in a 'star pattern' & recheck if its still straight, (if not, then tap it some more) then tighten them a little more & recheck.
Keep repeating this until the bolts are tight & the sprocket spins perfectly true!
Good post, Norm. That's one of the most helpful things I've seen yet on the subject. On some wheels the clam shell adapter is not available. A true sprocket properly aligned is the difference between misery with possible damage to bike and rider ...and smooth riding. Thanks,
SB
Venice Motor Bikes
Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
One thing I forgot to say in that post is that I put a zip tie on the frame with the loose end extending out just above the tips of the sprocket teeth. Then I spin the wheel & watch (& listen) as the teeth touch the zip tie. This helps center the sprocket almost perfectly!
Venice Motor Bikes
Custom Builder / Dealer/Los Angeles
I've never had any problems with the different sizes of stock chains; if it came with your kit, use it.
Yes, it's always better IF you can get away with NOT using the tensioner.
The rear sprocket must be installed as perfectly true as possible!!
I just designed a new chain tensioning system that I'll be offering soon.
It totally eliminates the tensioner & still lets you adjust the chain as it stretches over time!
Last edited:
KCvale
Well-Known Member
I am curious as to what bike or kit you got that will not allow the rear sprocket to fit over the hub perfectly and be trued up all on it's own.
Seems to me logic wise that trying to rely on a motor driven sprocket connected only to spokes without at least a solid center spot is just begging for failure.
I would also think that if it is a good kit you just arn't putting it on right, dust cover maybe?
But back to the chain alignment and no tensioner part of this 2 year old (I love it!) topic.
As mentioned in posts above sometimes you need to use a pulley/tensioner on the drive side because of actual frame obstacles.
Otherwise, if you can't match up the chains with a shim or two put the tensioner on the seldom used pedal side.
And show us what you mean by having to 'true up' and secure one of the most crucial parts of a motor drive train please.
I just want to avoid anything like that in the future.
Seems to me logic wise that trying to rely on a motor driven sprocket connected only to spokes without at least a solid center spot is just begging for failure.
I would also think that if it is a good kit you just arn't putting it on right, dust cover maybe?
But back to the chain alignment and no tensioner part of this 2 year old (I love it!) topic.
As mentioned in posts above sometimes you need to use a pulley/tensioner on the drive side because of actual frame obstacles.
Otherwise, if you can't match up the chains with a shim or two put the tensioner on the seldom used pedal side.
And show us what you mean by having to 'true up' and secure one of the most crucial parts of a motor drive train please.
I just want to avoid anything like that in the future.
KCvale
Well-Known Member
No kidding?I just designed a new chain tensioning system that I'll be offering soon.
It totally eliminates the tensioner & still lets you adjust the chain as it stretches over time!
I look forward to seeing what you have devised ;-}
It is not that uncommon to get a warped sprocket. Lay it on a known flat surface, a sheet of glass is a good example and see if it is absolutely flat. If it isn't you can flatten it with some work with a hammer,(remove it from the glass first) gently tapping out the high spots or actually bending it with a large jawed Cresent wrench. Whatever method you use, you want the sprocket FLAT. When tightening the bolts work in a star pattern around the circumference of the bolt circle, alternating from side to side until the lockwashers are flat then just a little more. All the while you're tightening you need to be checking for concentricity to the rear hub and adjusting as you go along until there is absolutely no up and down or side to side movement in the sprocket as you spin the wheel.
Tom