The stock one is #415, #410 is stronger/more common, and will fit just fine, it's just a little wider. No one likes using chain tensioners, they're made by the devil. If there's too much slack in your chain, get a half link.Question for you Venice. I noticed most of your bikes don't have the chain tensioners. Do you prefer not to use them?
I just put a 66cc slant in a Nirve Red Star having problems with noise near the drive sprocket. It appears that the rear sprocket is not true enough because as I roll the bike I get tight chain tension and then slack tension. Is it best to true up the rear sprocket, adjust drive chain,a nd then adjust pedal chain? I'm getting frustrated with the chain problems.
Also the chain I got with the kit measures .145. Would that be considered #410 chain? What are your thoughts on the different size chains?
Alot of people dont run tensioners...they are unneeded if your sprocket is true and chain is tensioned properly. The true-ness of the drive sprocket is imperative.Question for you Venice. I noticed most of your bikes don't have the chain tensioners. Do you prefer not to use them?
I just put a 66cc slant in a Nirve Red Star having problems with noise near the drive sprocket. It appears that the rear sprocket is not true enough because as I roll the bike I get tight chain tension and then slack tension. Is it best to true up the rear sprocket, adjust drive chain,a nd then adjust pedal chain? I'm getting frustrated with the chain problems.
Also the chain I got with the kit measures .145. Would that be considered #410 chain? What are your thoughts on the different size chains?
Secure the axle in something like a vice. Hang a plumb over the sprocket and turn wheel. Tighten a little at a time.WHats the best way to true the sprocket without a machine??
This is true - but bear in mind some builds unfortunately need to run a tensioner simply to reroute the chain back & over the chainstay as some bikes haven't the clearance. http://motorbicycling.com/f11/chain-tensioner-suggestions-11815.htmlAlot of people dont run tensioners...they are unneeded if your sprocket is true and chain is tensioned properly. The true-ness of the drive sprocket is imperative.
Good post, Norm. That's one of the most helpful things I've seen yet on the subject. On some wheels the clam shell adapter is not available. A true sprocket properly aligned is the difference between misery with possible damage to bike and rider ...and smooth riding. Thanks,You're talking about bolting on the rear sprocket I assume?
Bolt it on & leave all the bolts loose.
Then spin the wheel & watch the tips of the sprocket teeth as they spin & tap the sprocket around with a soft hammer until the sprocket spins straight.
Then tighten the bolts a little bit in a 'star pattern' & recheck if its still straight, (if not, then tap it some more) then tighten them a little more & recheck.
Keep repeating this until the bolts are tight & the sprocket spins perfectly true!
One thing I forgot to say in that post is that I put a zip tie on the frame with the loose end extending out just above the tips of the sprocket teeth. Then I spin the wheel & watch (& listen) as the teeth touch the zip tie. This helps center the sprocket almost perfectly!Good post, Norm. That's one of the most helpful things I've seen yet on the subject. On some wheels the clam shell adapter is not available. A true sprocket properly aligned is the difference between misery with possible damage to bike and rider ...and smooth riding. Thanks,
SB
I've never had any problems with the different sizes of stock chains; if it came with your kit, use it.Question for you Venice. I noticed most of your bikes don't have the chain tensioners. Do you prefer not to use them?
I just put a 66cc slant in a Nirve Red Star having problems with noise near the drive sprocket. It appears that the rear sprocket is not true enough because as I roll the bike I get tight chain tension and then slack tension. Is it best to true up the rear sprocket, adjust drive chain,a nd then adjust pedal chain? I'm getting frustrated with the chain problems.
Also the chain I got with the kit measures .145. Would that be considered #410 chain? What are your thoughts on the different size chains?
No kidding?I just designed a new chain tensioning system that I'll be offering soon.
It totally eliminates the tensioner & still lets you adjust the chain as it stretches over time!
It is not that uncommon to get a warped sprocket. Lay it on a known flat surface, a sheet of glass is a good example and see if it is absolutely flat. If it isn't you can flatten it with some work with a hammer,(remove it from the glass first) gently tapping out the high spots or actually bending it with a large jawed Cresent wrench. Whatever method you use, you want the sprocket FLAT. When tightening the bolts work in a star pattern around the circumference of the bolt circle, alternating from side to side until the lockwashers are flat then just a little more. All the while you're tightening you need to be checking for concentricity to the rear hub and adjusting as you go along until there is absolutely no up and down or side to side movement in the sprocket as you spin the wheel.When you adj the sprocket how can you get sideways aligned. I have tried to get the wobble out of mine and have not had any luck yet. Anyone have a suggestion on how to do this one?