Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike

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indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Though progress was made, not much visible proof is available & that made is rather butt ugly at the moment. For those new to fabricating as opposed to assembling moto-cycles it's a quite different process and things typically look really bad through most of each project until about they're 90% complete. If they look bad then....there's little hope things will turn out well.

I'm at the 25% point of having the cylinder set completed so yeah it's 'kinda pitiful. I've cut parts for the intake rocker and spring tower assembly but have yet to start on the neglected intake and exhausts ports or the sparkplug mounts. Every part that would originally have been removable for service or repairs will be removable on this motor housing as well; though not necessarily in the exact manner. Getting the cylinder set correct will be the most time consuming part of the fabrication.

I've already started to exercise some of my normal free will on the housings appearance. Nothing I build is ever an exact replica though I'll stay closer on some things than others. I like the vintage style of the 1915 Harley F head engine, but I still use the "what if" mode for design differences when they occur to me. I've three more days of decent forecasts so I expect a lot of progress on each of the missing cylinder elements.

The bat wing plates are used to clamp the cylinder set to the work bench and will be cut off when the cylinder sets are completed and work begins on the bottom end case.


Rick C.


v-twin cylinder plate.jpg

v-twin.jpg
 

indian22

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This is just awesome! It’s getting better and better.... ! Great work Rick! I’m excited to see another one of your great projects come to life.
Thanks Mags this has turned into a time consumer but really having fun with it. I've altered some case dimensions and going to cut some plate today on the plasma table that is if they aren't using it on paying jobs!

This isn't quite full scale, but close. I ran some numbers on the possible bore and stroke for my little creation & the dimensions are plenty big to plug in 3.2" bore with under square 3.8" stroke and that comes out to 1001.6cc or 61 cubic" so that metric is full scale. I'm a bit over scale with basic cases 5" wide x 9" diameter cam side plate is 9" x3" so that adds about 3" to the total length, excluding mounting lugs. Overall it's looking like 16.5" in height and spark plug tip to tip 14" .

Gotta' run & get dibs on that machine time, 20 minutes will get it done, 5 if someone punches in the coordinates for me!



Rick C.
 
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kelly dean

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Oct 3, 2019
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Though progress was made, not much visible proof is available & that made is rather butt ugly at the moment. For those new to fabricating as opposed to assembling moto-cycles it's a quite different process and things typically look really bad through most of each project until about they're 90% complete. If they look bad then....there's little hope things will turn out well.

I'm at the 25% point of having the cylinder set completed so yeah it's 'kinda pitiful. I've cut parts for the intake rocker and spring tower assembly but have yet to start on the neglected intake and exhausts ports or the sparkplug mounts. Every part that would originally have been removable for service or repairs will be removable on this motor housing as well; though not necessarily in the exact manner. Getting the cylinder set correct will be the most time consuming part of the fabrication.

I've already started to exercise some of my normal free will on the housings appearance. Nothing I build is ever an exact replica though I'll stay closer on some things than others. I like the vintage style of the 1915 Harley F head engine, but I still use the "what if" mode for design differences when they occur to me. I've three more days of decent forecasts so I expect a lot of progress on each of the missing cylinder elements.

The bat wing plates are used to clamp the cylinder set to the work bench and will be cut off when the cylinder sets are completed and work begins on the bottom end case.


Rick C.


View attachment 102850
View attachment 102851
thats freaking cool :)
 
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indian22

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Thanks guys I changed the 1915 HD design for the exhaust valve push rod from cast into the cylinder to a simple lifter rod tube through the cylinder fins as many other engine designers of the F head engine (intake over exhaust) utilized. To me the HD design eliminated fin cooling surface area while adding a huge amount of cast iron that retained more heat, plus it allows 360 fin surface to the cylinder that gives the engine a more symmetrical look. I'll deal with the exhaust port channel cast into the full length of the cylinder a bit later. The exhaust port exiting at the base of the jug has challenged me from the start of this build but I've an idea in mind that should solve it.

I'll try my hand at changing the look of the 2 cycle head for overhead valve, & direct head fuel and spark induction today. I've already a sweet T coupler for the carb ready to mount to the intake tubes. Keep in mind the 2 cycle heads spark plug location is now the overhead intake valve location and spark plugs are located at the heads outside edges. The intakes are to be on the inside edges. Making it all look functional is the challenge.

Rick C.
 
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Tony01

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Nov 28, 2012
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Hah so true with fabbing, doesn’t feel like you get stuff done till it’s shiny; there is something about making a shiny bike; too much work for me. Black semi gloss is my jam.

What kind of motor are you putting in the case?
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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To this point, if I use paint at all on a build it's black & not shiny, I like the look of metal especially with patina. One reason I build early 20th. century styles 1910 to 1925 are my favorites. Oh yeah my mountain e-bike is white, appliance white.

2000 watt 48 volt 4500 direct that I've had two years and never used. No name Chinese. The case I'm building is large enough to put a 5k motor in. My design uses a e-motor cradle that bolts to the cases mounts. So I can easily move up in power or change motor brands by just building the simple cradle and bolting it to the case. The fake HD motor case has a 9" diameter crankcase & internal width of 5" but that too can be altered with a simple case shim to handle up to a 9" wide motor.

Who knows when the bike will be ready to power this with so thought I'd keep costs down by first using what I already have to power something later. I'd think 35mph to forty mph with this motor possible with jack shaft gear reduction to align primary and secondary chains, while playing with wheel sprockets size.

Rick C.
 
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Tony01

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Nice. Plenty of space. For a heatsink as well if you run a smaller motor.

I like the look of metal too but how do you deal with rust? I have tried different clears and it doesn’t seem to do anything. Does that garden tool rust inhibitor spray work?
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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I just hit steel with wax and let brass, copper and aluminum gather patina. Though every few years a little hand polishing on brass and copper is possible, but I've not felt the urge to this point on any of my bikes. Steel component parts see paint typically, but on a couple I've just used one of the rust encapsulating products and this turns any rust almost black and stops the rust from further oxidation. I'm using it on surface rust that hasn't damaged the metal. I lightly hand buff the areas to be treated and use alcohol to degrease and clean before applying a couple of coats of rust stop. Several makers of this stuff, but can't recall which one I'm using, but think it's the Plasticoat product.

As far as rust inhibitor for tools, donno, but wax works pretty good though requires periodic reapplication.

Rick C.
 
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indian22

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Tony the heat sink on these small encased motors I'd think a necessity. Though I have allowed for air flow through the case there is room for forced fan ventilation as well. On completion I will bench test under load for temp readings to see if I've a need for the fan. I don't think I can get by without at least a decent heat sink on the 2k motor. Much larger will require both, but liquid cool is the best alternative for big motors encased in this housing.

This is a labor intensive project, even though I'm using the automated plasma table for cutting the major components. Each cylinder has more than 30 parts, not including fasteners. This total will go up before they're completed. The heads and spark plugs are the only parts purchased, but the heads require considerable alteration in order to work. Even if all parts were pre-cut assembly time alone is laborious.

I installed the exhaust valve stem with cover & one spark plug (not completed, just mocked up in it's pocket) also heads are turned 90 degrees from normal 2 cycle position. My plan is to complete the spark plugs and intake tubes next, followed by the exhaust manifold and overhead intake rocker lifter assembly last. Part of the charm of these older designs is the exposed lifter/rocker assembly's. They are so Rube Goldberg in character & rather comical in action or not.

Rick C

V twin sparkplug.jpg
 
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Tony01

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Very cool. Waiting to see what you come up with. I’ve not been able to find a radial heat sink for an OD around 4-5”. Be nice to find something for a clutch or a drum hub. A plasma table is a versatile tool. Built one for an auto shop a few years ago.

They are so Rube Goldberg in character & rather comical in action or not.
Hah Rick, sure we’re not talking about gas motorized bikes too... :D
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Thanks Tony and yes gas bikes included. I like chains and sprockets in motion and levers, knobs and assorted I don't know what that does but it's cool things. I'm also waiting to see what I come up with so everyone is surprised or horrified together.

I wouldn't have attempted this project without access to an automated plasma cutter. Cutting the fins & plates by hand would have been a job, even with a plasma cutter.

I'm thinking the heat sink will end up a custom fab item. This motor case is full of them already.

Rick C.
 

fasteddy

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Feb 13, 2009
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I'm on a couple of forums and they were suddenly given two weeks to move to another server and the sites had two weeks or so after that that they would be open but then they would be shut down. If no one stepped up to move them they are gone as far as I know.
 
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indian22

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Intake for the twin got some attention today. I'm working on three different approaches to completing the head, but the intake is adjustable, so this is what the intake will look like regardless of the direction I take. The motor needs upper support to the frame so the heads have to be incorporated for that to happen. Head has to be a muti-tasking component for this to be a strong motor connection, especially if I decide to run it as a mount for a 5k watt motor in the future. I'm designing this case as a secure mount with that as a possibility. It's for looks true, but it's got to work as well.

Rick C.

Rick C.
v twin intake.jpg
 

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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I'm on a couple of forums and they were suddenly given two weeks to move to another server and the sites had two weeks or so after that that they would be open but then they would be shut down. If no one stepped up to move them they are gone as far as I know.
I certainly hope the Servi-cycle forum survives. Lot of good guys with excellent bikes and it's well run with a great great community. Specialty for sure but open to posts that deal with other aspects of cycling.


Rick C.
 
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indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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I finished the saddle bag straps today and mounted them on the hybrid. That's three 36 v. packs 48 amp total, 23 lbs. of battery shown. There's room for two more mounted one between the seat tube and rear tire & one more mounted on the rack, but that would be for a longer trip than I'm ready to take just now. For daily use in the area one bag will carry repair and roadside kit, tools, CO2, tube and stuff that might be required on shorter rides.

Rick C.

saddlebags hybrid.jpg
saddlebags hybrid 2.jpg