My first build: 1912 Indian

Im finding this boardtracker section of the forum very interesting, as the standard of the builds seems to be getting better & better, & the builders are raising the bar more & more...
 
@ silverbear: I'm using a 180mm disc brake on the rear that will bolt through a Top Hat adapter to the hub itself. I'm not sure the Sturmey Archer front brake will be up to the task but if this thing comes in at under 160 lbs I think it will be adequate.

Anyway, while I'm on the subject; I will take the bike down to Manic Mechanic here in Clearwater and fit one of his adapters on the center of the hub behind the Top Hat to bring the torque load more inside the wheel. That should help transfer both brake load and engine load across the whole hub.
 
I have a disc on the rear of my bike, and although it works well and is peace of mind I constantly wish I had a coaster or drum as it looks out of place IMO....... And I know Cobrafreak recommends the bigger Sturmey Archer front drum....... I know it's safer and many may disagree with me but I'd really think whether you want a disc setup on this beautiful ride..... Just my $0.02
 
I explored motorcycle drum hubs but ran into too many problems finding 22: rims, spokes and such. In the end the disc brake will look about as out of place as the Lifan motor does. Small price to pay for stopping power. If anybody has an idea for a beefy bicycle drum hub I'd consider it!
 
I consider the 90mm Sturmey/Archer to be just a tick under a disk brake. It's the most advanced drum in the world and you can get it with a built in dynamo for lights, or without if you prefer.
 
I noticed Pat at Sportsman Cycles has a rear hub setup with an integrated sprocket; looks interesting. With the horsepower I will be pulling I wanted to avoid alloy hubs but if it holds up I may change my mind about that...
 
I'm running Pat's rear moped hub drum brake with adapter for using Kart chain rings. It's the bomb. Vintage looks and you can lace it up with 11 gauge spokes.
 
I finished the rear triangle and started mounting the motor as you can see from the photos. I also started building the tank. I am using a wooden tank jig so I don't have to continually refer to the frame while fabricating the tank. You can see hoe close the tolerances are for my tube cuts; close cut, tight weld.
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That's really coming along. Your tank jig is interesting and I very much like the shape of it. Please take a couple more photos as you go along in fabricating the tank. How will you bend the side pieces? What gauge steel is the tank made from? Should make a beautiful tank!
SB
 
silverbear, I am using 18 gage steel for the tins. I don't have a slip roller so I am using a 5" PVC pipe, cut in half to shape the curved sides of the tank. I will sandwich each panel between the pipe halves and then apply even pressure until I get the arc I'm looking for from each piece.
 
Bugthunder said:
silverbear, I am using 18 gage steel for the tins. I don't have a slip roller so I am using a 5" PVC pipe, cut in half to shape the curved sides of the tank. I will sandwich each panel between the pipe halves and then apply even pressure until I get the arc I'm looking for from each piece.
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Clever! Oh, I like that. Can't wait to see how it turns out...
SB
 
Bugthunder said:
I don't have a slip roller so I am using a 5" PVC pipe, cut in half to shape the curved sides of the tank. I will sandwich each panel between the pipe halves and then apply even pressure until I get the arc I'm looking for from each piece.
Click to expand...

*coppy, pasted and saved for future usednut

Very nice build!
 
I don't know how I missed this thread, but I am loving this build. You do some mighty fine work sir, and I will be keeping a eye on this one.
 
Bugthunder said:
silverbear, I am using 18 gage steel for the tins. I don't have a slip roller so I am using a 5" PVC pipe, cut in half to shape the curved sides of the tank. I will sandwich each panel between the pipe halves and then apply even pressure until I get the arc I'm looking for from each piece.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of your build on that tank this moring an had to post up this I used 4 inch exhaust tubing to build my tank its heavier wall an easier to weld on . you may have a hard time getting 18 gauge to bend smoothly an retain its curve the way you described because all steel will want to spring back once you take it out of tension or pressure . just a thought if you havent started making that tank yet . or alternatively a sheet metal shop may roll out your metal , for a few dollars I found one local to me by looking for metal fabrication shops on google . hope this helps .
Gary
 
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