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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by deacon, Jan 15, 2008.
WOW So sorry for his back. Hope he heals real soon. Glad he is still alive.
Re: Happy Time Expansion Chamber On A GP460 Engine!
my first engine was from bike berry and it was the cheapest motor i could get befor the Raw motors came out.. it was good at first but when I went over 30mph the bike would shake so bad my hands would go numb after 30 seconds... plus it was freezing cold out so I could not feel the break. I thought there was nothing I could do so I just put up with it.. after a year my motor starting to slow down so I just went ahead and bought a grubee! some people said I would have to place rubber from an old intertube between the motor mounts and the bike frame but I didnt waste my time. Now with the grubee motor I can get up to 45 plus mph "when I adjust the choke right" without anly vibration
While I realize that not everyone does this I would just like to recommend NOT removing the inline fuel filters. I saw a post that said a man removed his fuel filter because it kept getting clogged from rust in his tank... this is the point. The fuel filter is supposed to keep gunk from entering the engine and cause serious harm. I do not own a motorbike yet but I do have a dirt bike and have owned several and tinker on them all. While I will not say that I know it all I do believe in this.
If you have to use the choke to make it "run right" then it'd NOT running right.
The choke it there for starting and warm up. If you have to use it any other time, you're not getting the most performance from your engine. May be causing premature wear or damage with the mixture lean enough that you have to choke it to run better.
Re: take a tip...leave a tip...or a bunch of 'em
What do you mean by using clutch to take off?
I always pedal a bit, get a bit of speed like the initial start of riding a bicycle before the actual accelerating and riding part, apply some throttle, let got of the clutch, and throttle on. I stop pedaling as soon as the throttle kicks in and I can hear it, and it'll be a low speed and then rev up quickly.
Am I doing it right or should I pedal to a higher speed before letting go of the clutch?
And how much heavier does the bike become after you put lead into the handlebars? Really want to reduce vibration, but I struggle enough as it is to lift the bike... Which I have to do when I get home to put it onto the steps to make room...
You are doing right
Still some little fine tunings to do on the bike now that I've had a good 35kms riding on it; ergh... such a busy day tomorrow.
Write up a talk, fix the bike. Boooo LOL
Re: take a tip...leave a tip...or a bunch of 'em
Lead weighs alot. I mean come on.....it's lead!
This stuff always got good reviews from my customers when I worked in Harley shops. It weighs alot less that lead too.
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Well, I know lead is heavy, just wondering how much I'd need to put in to stabilise the bike and how much heavier it'd become. LOL
Bar snake looks interesting, but that aside, are there any other alternatives? I head something about sand, but would be clueless as to how that would work...
Or what else is there? Lots of cotton wool to cushion it all?
You really do not need to completely fill up the handlebars with lead, just the ends. You could first try 6 or 8 ounces just in the first 1 to 2 inches of the ends of the bars. This is exactly what the bar end weights are as used on super bikes, only they are cast iron not lead. They are there to reduce handlebar buzz and steady the mirrors. For that matter you could just go out and buy bar end weights from any good motorcycle dealership or aftermarket shop. The handlebar diameter is identical too, 7/8".
I have a 48 cc grubee skyhawk motor on my bike. I also have a CNS carburator on it. I also replaced all the cheap chinese hardware with good strong american hardware. Other than that everything is stock. I have an Expansion chamber sitting in my garage which i am going to install once i break in the motor more as well as the new CNS carburator i purchase for it. I am running a 100:1 fuel ratio and just got the carburator where i want it. I finally got the carb tuned and the bike is running like a champ as of now. I am going to run a whole 2 tanks of 100:1 gas through it (is my first time ever using 100:1 fuel ratio it was 50:1)until i put the expansion chamber on. I have a list of parts i want to purchase for this bike until it is exacly what i want. My list begins with a jackshaft kit (standard jackshaft kit). Next, a boost bottle kit, "T" bars and finally nitrous kit. I did research on all these products and made up my mind to try and purchase and install all these parts on my bike until my bike is fully complete. I do not have any of these parts yet all I have right now is a CNS carb which is already installed, and expansion chamber which isnt. I am striving to get all these parts and install them after i get that expansion chamber on it and get the carb tuned once i install that expansion. I also wanted to get 26" all black rims on it. I saw a deal on spookytooth for both wheels at $45. I figured this was the best possible deal and was going to purchase them but spookytooth dissapeared from this site. Does anyone know what happened to it? Also do you have any advice for me and all the products i am going to install on my bike?
"something else that makes a nice round hole for your gaskets is a brass bullet shell. "
^ This, and if you reload, take your chamfer tool, and sharpen the mouth of the casing. That + a block of wood = super cheap cutting tool.
The gun needs to be sighted in real accurate for distance hole locating
on the intake gasket,,,lol
Thanks for sharing tip idea...
how about getting a rim trued and then using jb weld around where all the spoke adjusters are so it can not move and become un trued?? if they cant move then would the wheel stay true? if a few did move then we could see the jb weld broken and know those are the ones that need to be adjusted.... just a thought and i am going to try it out soon or maybe some tape or gorillia glue .. what do you guys think?
Please tell me you're trying to be funny and joking. If not, the level of foolishness you are exhibiting is inversely proportional to your idealism. No offense. Spokes keep a wheel true via tension - which can easily change - possibly requiring adjustment. Your idea is too whiskey tango to possibly work. It is kinda funny tho, IMHO anyway
i'm with aleman on this. spoked wheels work because they flex. that's why soldering or ziptie-ing the crosses doesn't work, and that's why your idea won't work.
the JB weld would more than likely break up just from the wheel's natural tendency to flex, and then your innertube would have something to rub on and go flat.
if the JB weld actually held, then you wouldn't be able to true the wheel in the future, replace any damaged spokes, or re-lace in a new hub without having to clean up the mess.
if you want a solid wheel, get a solid wheel, like a mag wheel or something.