Also spokes can stretch over time with the stresses and strains that they endure. Locking the nipples in place will have no benefit to you in this regard.
just an idea but prolly best on take a tip leave a tip ,... dont jb weld the spokes or zip tie them but yet i have seen the zip ties help... well nothing seems to help the chain tensioner from spinning.... also now i have a problem with the coaster brake rim i installed anyways and i am going to leave details on how i fixed it.. can i ride it with out the brake pads or somehow make it a free wheel .??? i have v brakes on it already...
You can remove the brake shoes from it, or just repair it. Both are just as labor intensive as the other. if you leave the v-brake and the coaster brake both functioning you can have "dual" brakes on one wheel.
Check out Sheldon's tutorial on a coaster brake hub for more info:
One-Speed Bicycle Coaster Brakes
I highly recommend the Park Tools link in his tutorial.
Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Coaster Hub Overhaul (Pedal Brake Hub)
Check out Sheldon's tutorial on a coaster brake hub for more info:
One-Speed Bicycle Coaster Brakes
I highly recommend the Park Tools link in his tutorial.
Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Coaster Hub Overhaul (Pedal Brake Hub)
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took the whole thing apart and put it back together just to find out that the bearing burned up inside of it .... dont know where to get another one so i will just buy a new rim or another bike and new motor to start fresh.. heard those raw motors are kinda good
i was replacen my throttle cable with a brake cable and used the cramps that came with the cables, clampt it down and now i dont need the fuel needle adjustment needle ;which is good me and a friend were tinkerin with my bike and he unscrewed it enough on a test run it fell out . I put a screw that fit in its place and my bike was idlen just rite and so the cramp i put on the end of the throttle cable was just purfect Johnny riggen sumetimes workout for the best
Hey, this is a tip I thought I might pass on. the bolt in the picture might look familiar, particularly to drummers. It came off the rack tom of someone's drum kit. I discovered that these lug bolts fit right into the threads of the china-girl type motors, and I use them on the down tube(FRONT) motor mount of both my gas bikes. the stock studs are infamously weak and prone to breakage. if you are a drummer, you might have a ton of these, and if you're not, the local music store probably sells them. They are sold in a variety of lengths. I have found they work well on the front mount(the one most likely to have it's stud lengths modified) all you need is a drum key to adjust or remove. Not exactly earth shattering, but it helped solve my problems for good.
Attachments
I carry a U-lock and cable or chain (hardened) to be flexible to the situation I need to park in. I've heard the U-locks with a round key can easilly be picked.
The little clip thingy on the end of my clutch cable came off. Down by the clutch arm. I used a crimp on wire connector to fix it. Real cheap fix!
Terry
Terry
my tip since i took about ten of these is.... so far the best thing to make gaskets with is the gasket material i found at merle's auto supply. It can be found at other auto stores as well. It is metal sandwiched between a cardboard type of material used for making exhaust gaskets for cars. So far it has wrked awsome no leaks no blow outs 150mi and going.
#41 Chain from Tractor Supply: Get one. It's heavier duty than the stock chain, doesn't bind as much as the stock chain, rolls smoother than the stock chain, and is a little wider to allow for greater run-out of the sprockets without causing a problem.
my tip , most probably already know , i use marvels mystery oil in everything i own 2 or 4 stroke , in the gas and oil as directed , no i am not a salesman , but i would be if they would give me a lifetime supply LOL , marvels mystery oil was formulated in 1923 to combat the effects of poorly refined gasoline from stopping up the carbs , the US GOV did a test on marvels and began using it in everything in WW2 , and still use it today , all of the fleet lines use it as well , i have did my own tests and find air cooled engines run cooler and have more power , your gas tank won't rust and your carb will never stop up , it dissipates water and combats the effects of alcohol , i also like the 2 stroke formula stabil in gas that is stored for a while .
take off your fenders or make solid brackets if you own a bike with metal fenders.. the tab that is on the bike ... well they break off and then it gets sucked under your bike wheel which will make you skid out .. and then maybe head over heels like i did just now..
Don't drill for the love of all that is good and holy! If you can't weld, you shouldn't be using a drill on your frame. As a matter of fact, if you want to drill and you can't weld, give me your drill.
*Don't drill a T-style bracket of universal motor mount - get the U-style bracket.
*Don't drill for the china girl throttle - pull that pin out with a pair of pliers, it'll be fine.
*Don't drill your chain tensioner - operative word being TENSION.
Speaking of tensioners - if you use one and your chainstay (rear bottom tube on the left side) tapers, get heavy duty duct tape (don't skimp, get the expensive stuff, it'll save you a whole rear wheel) and wrap where your tensioner is going to be, as well as a couple inches to either side. Put it on thickest where the taper is the smallest, and blend it smoothly as possible. Do not rush it - put it on seamless with no bubbles, hit it with a heat gun or a hair dryer for no more than a minute to dry it, let it cool for as long as you can stand so your glue doesn't slide and put your tensioner on now.
When there's a taper, the tensioner likes to travel in and out of the frame (most often inwards), esp. with the two bolt single plate setup. You're not drilling because it's downward pressure against the whole at its weakest point.
*Don't drill a T-style bracket of universal motor mount - get the U-style bracket.
*Don't drill for the china girl throttle - pull that pin out with a pair of pliers, it'll be fine.
*Don't drill your chain tensioner - operative word being TENSION.
Speaking of tensioners - if you use one and your chainstay (rear bottom tube on the left side) tapers, get heavy duty duct tape (don't skimp, get the expensive stuff, it'll save you a whole rear wheel) and wrap where your tensioner is going to be, as well as a couple inches to either side. Put it on thickest where the taper is the smallest, and blend it smoothly as possible. Do not rush it - put it on seamless with no bubbles, hit it with a heat gun or a hair dryer for no more than a minute to dry it, let it cool for as long as you can stand so your glue doesn't slide and put your tensioner on now.
When there's a taper, the tensioner likes to travel in and out of the frame (most often inwards), esp. with the two bolt single plate setup. You're not drilling because it's downward pressure against the whole at its weakest point.
I dont know if this tip has been added already but it concerns you handle/trottle grip that comes with the chinese kit. My friends complained that its dangerous cuz its very slippery. Anyway what I did was remove the the cheap stuff and applied the stock handle grip that came with bike. U will a can of BONAMI a very thin screw driver and a straw from a can of WD40. U take the screw driver a stick it between the rubber of the trottle and jiggle it around a bit then attach straw to bonami and stick it next to screw driver and spray......then just grab hold of trottle grip and twist and pull. Repeat process for grips on handle bar. ( the soild white plastic trottle might need to be trimmed a bit )
For standard bicycle grips that slip on the bars (not the stock kit china grips), put them on with Windex. The Windex will make a bead between the grip and bar and keep it from slipping! As well, it helps for getting the grip on.
I have a couple tips, I think. One which is obvious, any time you make an adjustment that affects the mechanical operation of the engine or bicycle in ANY way, no matter how small, ALWAYS test ride before hitting the road. It will save you from getting stuck somewhere you can't easily get home from. As far as the pin on the throttle goes, I have drilled 2 pairs of handlebars for it, and both times the pin broke. The first time I hammered a nail through the plastic. I don't recommend that, as you can crack the whole thing and render it useless. That didn't happen to me, but still. The second time I cut a strip of rubber of a chewed up tire and slid it between the throttle and the handlebar. It holds good and solid. Never had it slide on me once. if your clutch spring wears out, you can replace it with either a motorcycle clutch spring or a spring from harbor freight. I have used both, and they work equally well. The stock clutch cable may break, I buy replacements at my local bike shop. If you build a motorized beach cruiser, add a rear handbrake. Loctite and jam-nut all engine mounting bolts. I also used loctite superglue on my sprocket mounting bolts. Trust me, it works.