Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by deacon, Jan 15, 2008.
the intake manifold. either where the carb mounts or where it mounts to the engine.
ok so i have a few tips i hope they are helpful
start by upgrading the throttle assemly to something more real i personaly use a brake lever after mine broke far from home i had to pull the cable by hand to get home it wasnt safe but beat pedaling
second when attaching rear sprocket to rear wheel use a wrench for the inside of the wheel and a drill gun with torqe settings for the outside start low and work your way around trying to keep everything alligned the gradually work the torq up till its maxed out on mine his was at five i dont know how accurate these torque specifactions are but i havent had any problems
third if your spark plug boot comes off when riding this worked in my case i just took the end of the wire and slide it over the plug it has been working fin for the last few weeks there is no boot just a wire im not sure how much less spark it has im sure the boot is the best wayto go but in a bind make it home
ok to continue on from earlier
having double walled rims is a good idea and tires that match your driving style rough nobby tire for off road trail use and smooth tire
now in the past i have used back packs to carry extra tools but that was ok if i didnt forget to grab it before i left but now i have a old ammo pouch large enough to carry basic tools adjustable wrenches fixed wrenches a few sockets and extensions and also handy are those small screw drivers with short handles were the bit comes out and you have two bit in one and one thing thats necasarry is a allen wrench multy tool as most new bike they us allen bolt heads
oh yah and carry extra a intertube chain lube and a small bike pump they dont work well but they get ya home
ok so i forgot one more thing a couple weeks ago i was riding my dads bike and it kept dying on me not getting enough fuel i took the carb apart everything was fine adjusted the tabs after it didnt work then found the fuel was being blocked by the fuel valve so i thought ok something must be in there but it ws clean the petcock filter was clean but still no flow just a dribble so i went to lows put three fittings to make a straight flow adapter it worked fine but i thought why did the original valve got stuck i took it apart and still found nothing to obstruct flow
it was the very valve design that caused the failure the fuel inlet tube was a smaller diameter than the outlet valve so i found a drill the same size as the out valve and drilled thye inlet the same size and also drilled the flow ports so now it has great flow the problem has gone away
now i did this with myn petcock to and later had the same problem with fuel flow it turned out a peice of inline fuel filter was pluggi9n the carberater so i dont know is this may hep others out but unrestricted flow of fuel must be good cause the float shuts the supply off when it needs to just turns off sooner cause the float fills faster
and for some reason both bikes start better maybe that was from bending the float tabshttp://motorbicycling.com/images/smilies/dfl.gif
ok so i forgot one more thing for the stock exaust falling apart cause the nut vibrates off i use a wire clamp i make from a jig i bought at a sportsman show i googled it but havent seen any pictures to explain but a regular wire clapm should co as long as its small enough
If your dustcap needs to be trimmmed when installing the sprocket, fuhgettaboutit. Get a ziplock sandwich bag and cut off a side of it(single sheet of plastic) and put a hole in it for the axle and such to fit through. Get some bearing grease and grease up the sprocket and axle area. Place the plastic from the sandwich bag over the axle and lay it flat as possible. Now, take some silicone gasket sealer and smush it around the area which the old dust cap covered. Take some more grease and smear a coat on the brake arm and bolt it down for now. Let it cure and then remove the brake arm and lift the silicone off the axle. Trim it up with some scissors to make it pretty.
Silicone sealer wont stick to grease.
This isnt the greatest tip, but if your cap is messed up and you need something to try to keep dirt out then the above works. I had tried string wrapped around the cap area which worked, but I wanted something that could slip on and off, so silicone. You only need a trace of grease anywhere you dont want silicone. Too much and you'll have uncured silicone to clean up.
Here's my cap in the attachment.
Makeshift Cruise Control - If you're sick of the blister on your thumb from holding your throttle in place, check this out. I had the idea last week and it works great, sorry if its been posted before.
Okay, so what you do is lightly loosen your throttle handle, and pull on it until the throttle 'drags' on the end of the bar just enough to hold its position, but not enough so you have to 'crank' on it(that could be dangerous). Then you just re-tighten it while still pulling on it. Don't over-do it, but you get the idea. I've done this on both my bikes now and love it. No more blisters!
Other thought is: The needle on the carb are too much "upper", i mean, the needle has to down 1 or 2 positions.
killercanuck, It makes it even easier if you get a twist grip throttle like a lot of the mb's have. There not that costly, and then you have a throttle like a motorcycle.
i saw way back in the post about rim tape i use super 33 it's electrical rubber tape much better than regular
I was just thinking about gasket material and have seen that all types of aluminum sheeting was used but has anyone tried cutting up an empty soda can or cans and using the flat part of that? Seems logical and near free especially if you "find" the can or cans. lol.
biggest fear would be any missed sharp edges near the tube. I do understand free i am an electrician so the tape i can get but i know it's less 5 bucks a roll enough to do like 3 wraps on my rim
i use scotch 33, too. i've got a ton of it from my old job. i just make sure the spokes aren't poking through the nipples, and if they are, i grind them down, then give it 2 wraps.a well made rim shouldn't have any sharp edges.
oh wait, you have a cranbrook, right?
ever felt like you had a stalker? and no bairdco that was my mistake on misreading infernos application for cut up cans
I was actually meaning a gasket for the head or somewhere around the motor not for tires. lol. Sorry about that. I also thought of another tip that I'm actually using. I read somewhere about taking pieces of rubber and sticking them in the cooling fins helps vibration and noise tremendously. I had no spare high temp rubber and tried using cardboard and it works great! Just as long as they're securely wedged between the fins it works really well and it's pretty much free!
This may absorb the vibration that creates noise, but you will probably not get the cooling that is needed in the hot summers of where you live. I would not use this idea in the summer.
I have used it here in FL for the past 2 weeks on 90 degree average days and I haven't had a single problem with it.
The real problem is long term damage and premature wear on the motor I drive old vw's and cooling is a must the best thing would be make the gasket are good qualitty and everything is torqued good plus hearing the motor do its thing is the best way to tell when something is about to go
How's this for a tip; Before getting a new or rather bigger (more teeth) front drive sprocket, (the one that bolts to the motor not the wheel) make sure your cover can still go over the sprocket with the chain on without rubbing. It can be a problem with some 2 stroke, chain drive motors.