Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

5-7heaven,
4oz of oil to 1 gal gas is 32:1, should be a good starting point, I use Amsoil Sabre synthetic, run about 3oz to a bit over a gal of fuel.

128oz in a gallon, 4 oz of oil = 128 divided by 4 = 32=== 32:1
148/3 = 49:1(my mix ratio)
 
clear spray paint works great for putting on grips.

carb cleaner will take off the chain grease on your white walls and cream coloured tires.

soaking parts in 7-up removes rust from chrome and cleans zinc plated parts better than anything i've found.
 
Mr.Clean Magic Erasers will make your white walls white again. Simple Green will make it come off even easier.

If your petcock leaks and is tightened down at a weird angle , goto the hardware store and get a rubber grommet. They are thicker then rubber washers/orings and act as a sealer and spacer so your petcock faces a direction you can actually see it.

:)
 
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I find metal electrical box covers are a low cost alternative to metal stock for some of my low tech fabrication. I don't think they are a good idea to weld, something to do with the zinc, but they cut and drill pretty easily for bolt plates and my engine mounts. And for $.57 each you can afford to mess a few up.
 
Unsure if I left this before.

I like goped tanks, but they leak at the mid-level fuel grommet. Sooo, I use JB WELD and a plastic swatch cut out of a cordless drill carrying case to plug the hole. A 25-cent coin fits perfectly on the grommet hole, but I'm too stingy. LOL

I also lose gas caps. Sooo, I made a temporary fix by cutting off 11 inches of bicycle tire tubing, clean it thoroughly, then slip one end over the the filler hole. Then I tied a loose knot in the tube. This allows the tube to vent, but not leak gasoline.

Don't know how long this "cap" will last. I just made my first one tonight.
 
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The rubber tubing "cap" lasted a few days, until the new 1.5 liter goped tank and cap arrived in the mail. The new cap has a plastic retainer, so that should keep from losing it.

On the goped tank, I drilled a 23/64" hole in the bottom. Then I tapped it to accept a petcock, then JB WELDED the petcock in. This allows me to drain the tank for many reasons.

To prevent passersby from messing with my tank, I drilled thru the cap and tank neck from the side. Then I tapped the hole to accept an 8mm allen-head screw. The screw prevents anyone from unscrewing my cap. Since the screw is round-headed, it makes it difficult for a prankster to remove the cap without an allen wrench.

Sooner or later, the allen screw will chew up the tank's threaded hole I made. Then I'll install a metal threaded insert, so the screw can thread into it.

I keep the allen wrench for the tank inside the soft handlebar grip.

Coincidentally, I use this same wrench to adjust/tighten my two mirrors.
 
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I mounted my GP460 engine in a position where the canister-type air cleaner points straight up. I'm thinking any prankster can pass by and pour a whole can of soda into the slots, thereby destroying my engine. Until I could devise a permanent solution, I simply placed an empty 7-ounce tuna can atop the air cleaner when I parked it.

Last night I figured out how to make a permanent fix. First, I marked where the 4.25"(diameter) tuna can's edge was, on the 3.875"(diameter) air cleaner-canister. Then I added another .25" Next, I unscrewed the air cleaner canister and drilled 27 holes into it with a 3/8" drill bit, above the marked line. Before I screwed the tuna can "bonnet" on, I placed a .25" spacer between the tuna can and the canister. This will allow the canister to breathe through its the original top vents as well as the new 27 holes.

Now no one can pour stuff into my aircleaner, ANNNNND the engine breathes more freely with 27 more vent holes. Sorry, no pics, but it looks pretty cool.
dance1

Actual cost...zero.
 
5-7HEAVEN said:
I mounted my GP460 engine in a position where the canister-type air cleaner points straight up. I'm thinking any prankster can pass by and pour a whole can of soda into the slots, thereby destroying my engine. Until I could devise a permanent solution, I simply placed an empty 7-ounce tuna can atop the air cleaner when I parked it.

Last night I figured out how to make a permanent fix. First, I marked where the 4.25"(diameter) tuna can's edge was, on the 3.875"(diameter) air cleaner-canister. Then I added another .25" Next, I unscrewed the air cleaner canister and drilled 27 holes into it with a 3/8" drill bit, above the marked line. Before I screwed the tuna can "bonnet" on, I placed a .25" spacer between the tuna can and the canister. This will allow the canister to breathe through its the original top vents as well as the new 27 holes.

Now no one can pour stuff into my aircleaner, ANNNNND the engine breathes more freely with 27 more vent holes. Sorry, no pics, but it looks pretty cool.
dance1

Actual cost...zero.
Click to expand...

This is how it looks without the tuna can:



I'll be back in a bit......going to the store to get some tuna.....
 
Ha ha! Eat your lunch, then recycle!dance1

Hey scotto, can you place the tuna can onto your filter and take a picture of your engine again?
 
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Searching for a fuel container to carry 18 oz in my caged bottle holder, I found this:

Spare Fuel bottle 530ml for S9 stove - eBay (item 180549657533 end time Sep-18-10 09:09:53 PDT)

Ya can't beat the price! The competitor's cost was $17.95 each, but you had to buy two to get free shipping. I paid $5.95 each, which included free shipping!dance1

The containers arrived in 7 days. They fit tight enough in the holder to scrape its paint off.

To keep pranksters from stealing this bottle or contaminating the fuel, use a plastic tie-wrap to secure the cap to the seat tube.

Loop the tie-wrap several times from cap to tube. When it's time to remove the fuel bottle, snip the tie-wrap close to its latch. That way, you can re-use the tie several times.
 
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I have a new Robin Subaru 1.6 HP 4 cycle engine. How many miles should I go b4 running at full throttle (break-in) without damaging engine? Also, I'd like to ride 50+ miles per trip (carrying my own gas). Would that damage the engine? Is there a max miles or time that the engine can be run continously without damage?
Any info would be helpful!

Thanks
 
ok so anyone that has some seepage from their gas cap when it is close to full, when at high revs or getting low taking corners

puch moped gas cap does a far better job of sealing but if you ride it like you stole it and
take corners like a supermoto star it will still seep but a very minuet amount.
 
For you GP460 engine owners, the OEM clutch retails for $54. Then you have to change the 8000rpm engagement springs, which cost $15.

davesmotors.com sells pocket bike clutch with a tapered shaft and keyway. These fit the 460 engine perfectly, and engages softly, right off idle. My older 460's crankshaft has the keyway, but its original clutch doesn't. Use the $9 pocketbike clutch, grind down the 460 special retaining crank nut/washer and use the 460 flywheel key for the clutch key.

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.3821/.f

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.1355/.f
 
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Mac said:
........ but it has to include "J-B WELD" HAAA!!!
Click to expand...

JB Weld is awesome. I've done all kinds of repairs with it, not just MB related. I made the tooling surface of a mold using it, repaired a leaky pipe, fixed broken light fixture. The claims on the package are about how I've used it.

As for using on a MB, so far I fixed a broken hand grip, broken clutch handlebar gripper thing, the throttle cable at the grip, and JB'd two washers together and wedged under the front mount plate. It doesnt stick to smooth surfaces for long which can be a bonus if you might want to remove it one day. If you want it to stick, think rough but clean surfaces. It's just epoxy with some added ummph, so use it accordingly.
 
Here's a hard learned tip: If you find that you need to turn the idle screw all the way in or close to all the way in, you have an air leak. Get it off the road asap! and find/fix it, or you'll cook the piston and destroy it, and the jug.
 
vespasian said:
Here's a hard learned tip: If you find that you need to turn the idle screw all the way in or close to all the way in, you have an air leak. Get it off the road asap! and find/fix it, or you'll cook the piston and destroy it, and the jug.
Click to expand...

In most cases where are the most obvious places on the motor to search for these air leakes ?
 
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