briggs kick start motorbike
- Thread starter briggsbiker
- Start date
yeah that would be cool! ive been wanting to go on a ride, let me know when the next ride is and hopefully ill have my bike rideable by then!
A couple of weeks ago I attempted to start it for about an hour but I think im having carb problems. The kick start does turn motor well though. I did get the gas tank mounted and I also received the license plate from the DMV, it took a couple of months for that to come in.
Thanks goat herder for the comments! Oh and your YouTube link doesnt work or maybe it's just my computer?Some how dunno how but I missed this thread! Very nice bike I like it
Sorry it took so long to answer your question. Just overlooked it until re-reading this post. I copied a few more books and would be glad to send you one if you pm me with your address. Thanks.
I have a question for briggsbiker. I am looking into trying to make my bike build using a briggs and stratton with a kick start like yours.
My question is, does that gear that is attached to the flywheel screw on to the existing shaft, or is it held on by the bolt that I see in your pics?
I have been having a hard time locating a briggs kick start assembly, so I bought a maytag washer engine kick assembly instead. The gear that would go onto the flywheel shaft is too large to thread onto the shaft. I am just trying to brainstorm ideas of how to get this gear attached to and working on a briggs engine.
Thanks for any help you might be able to give me,
Gilbert
My question is, does that gear that is attached to the flywheel screw on to the existing shaft, or is it held on by the bolt that I see in your pics?
I have been having a hard time locating a briggs kick start assembly, so I bought a maytag washer engine kick assembly instead. The gear that would go onto the flywheel shaft is too large to thread onto the shaft. I am just trying to brainstorm ideas of how to get this gear attached to and working on a briggs engine.
Thanks for any help you might be able to give me,
Gilbert
Man, I hope that Briggsbiker comes to visit this thread again. I have another question to ask him! I think I figured out the kick start gear thing from re-looking at your pictures. It looks like you used pins set into the flywheel to fix the gear in place.
My other question is how do you achieve proper belt tension between the two belts? Do you have an adjustable clutch assembly like msrfan?
I am planning on using a centrifugal clutch with belts and a rear sheave. I really like msrfan's adjustable clutch assembly, but I still don't completely understand how to fabricate it. I also do not know if it will work with a centrifugal clutch set-up.
Anyway, I hope you get your bike running soon with an update for all of us motorized bicycle geeks.
Thanks,
Gilbert
My other question is how do you achieve proper belt tension between the two belts? Do you have an adjustable clutch assembly like msrfan?
I am planning on using a centrifugal clutch with belts and a rear sheave. I really like msrfan's adjustable clutch assembly, but I still don't completely understand how to fabricate it. I also do not know if it will work with a centrifugal clutch set-up.
Anyway, I hope you get your bike running soon with an update for all of us motorized bicycle geeks.
Thanks,
Gilbert
Excellent build briggsbiker. That frame looks to me to be about a 1961? Tight fit on the engine but it looks incredible. Did you machine the fins off the flywheel or get it that way? I like that too! If I could make a recommendation to you, because I have a '61 schwinn, keep the original seat to put on at car shows, but get a comfy seat for cruisin, those things KILL the rump. I can't wait to see a vid of how she rides 
From Measure Twice:
I see that the engine crank shaft goes to a jack shaft. Then the jackshaft centrifical pully to the thing attached to the rear wheel spokes. The big gear down pully is attached to the spokes looks like with screws on the back side of the pully to attch to the spokes. Is that whole assembly that attaches to the spokes something that is for sale already, or did you come up with the part by hand crafting?
I've seen the Whizzer from a old bike in the early 1900's that looks just like that.
I have some way I attached a washing machine pully to a rear wheel for v-belt drive, and if it does not suffice, I would surely like to see it I could get the kind your using.
The method I currently am trying to use again, is a sandwich of wood inside the sokes, then spokes, then another plate of wood, and finally a pully on the outside all bolted together.
I have to shim the plates of wood now as when tightened down it deforms the pully. I may actually get it done as it was done this way 30 yrs ago when I used a 24 inch wheel, but this 26 inch wheel has more spokes and has created it being a little more difficult this time around. I did not have to use the shims before with the smaller wheel.
sounds like you mean the sheave on the back wheel? the thing that looks like a smaller rim that the drive pulley rides on?
if so, you can find them here:
Whizzer Rim Parts
if so, you can find them here:
Whizzer Rim Parts
Whizzer Motorbike
I found this one two with the part at 32/34 hdwr for sheave and 24 sheave and cost looking at around $80 and the site you mention about maybe $120.
I am surely looking to get what I have working without the purchase of this much at the cost I'm seeing.
Actually, I remembered how I made up for the angle of the spokes before without making shims for my way of attaching thye washing machine pulley. I bent the 4 tabs attached to the pulley to the exact angle to compensate, and then screwed together this assembly with the tabs. I question my father if it would be strong enough if I bent the tabs, and he said it would work. That part never had any problem, but what did was the brazing of a platform for the engine which later cracked a tube on the frame near the platform. I got some hints from others and with this new design I TIG welded, I used a lot of extra points to spread out the weight and torque.
Thanks for the info and I hope to be getting a test run soon.
There is one thing I was wondering if splash oil type lube of the side shaft Briggs & Stratton tilted forward has not caused any lube/cooling problems with the bikes I've seen posted. They look to be around 45% forward tilited.
My fit of at 3hp, I tilted backabout 15 degrees and I made an adaption plate to get the carb bown level. I when restoring the engine have this picture of the crankcase where a fork splash dips into the oil bath twoard the engine aft. By the time I turned the crank around it comes out of the oil bath as the counter weight is coming down, and the splash fork is only halfway forward.
I felt this meant the tilting back the engine would only give more a deeper bath to splash the oil from. If I tilted forward then the opposite would be true. I decided on a slight tilt of the engine backward. The attachment pic to see.
Measure Twice
I found this one two with the part at 32/34 hdwr for sheave and 24 sheave and cost looking at around $80 and the site you mention about maybe $120.
I am surely looking to get what I have working without the purchase of this much at the cost I'm seeing.
Actually, I remembered how I made up for the angle of the spokes before without making shims for my way of attaching thye washing machine pulley. I bent the 4 tabs attached to the pulley to the exact angle to compensate, and then screwed together this assembly with the tabs. I question my father if it would be strong enough if I bent the tabs, and he said it would work. That part never had any problem, but what did was the brazing of a platform for the engine which later cracked a tube on the frame near the platform. I got some hints from others and with this new design I TIG welded, I used a lot of extra points to spread out the weight and torque.
Thanks for the info and I hope to be getting a test run soon.
There is one thing I was wondering if splash oil type lube of the side shaft Briggs & Stratton tilted forward has not caused any lube/cooling problems with the bikes I've seen posted. They look to be around 45% forward tilited.
My fit of at 3hp, I tilted backabout 15 degrees and I made an adaption plate to get the carb bown level. I when restoring the engine have this picture of the crankcase where a fork splash dips into the oil bath twoard the engine aft. By the time I turned the crank around it comes out of the oil bath as the counter weight is coming down, and the splash fork is only halfway forward.
I felt this meant the tilting back the engine would only give more a deeper bath to splash the oil from. If I tilted forward then the opposite would be true. I decided on a slight tilt of the engine backward. The attachment pic to see.
Measure Twice
Attachments
If you look at the Briggs engine on race Karts the engine tilts foward quite a bit. as I remember we ran only about 16-17oz of oil too instead of the usual 22 or so. The engine has no problems in the foward configuration.
