briggs kick start motorbike

[Dan]

Was funny, SB. Both times.

Just re-read this thread. Well, kinda skimmed it. We, and I'm not kidding should revive more old ones like this. So many folks have got gone and some of the work is just awe inspiring. There is just so much really great stuff and people in the archives!

Sincerely SB, thanks for bringing this one back up.

Hey, remember Corgi? He was a blast.

Dan *never on topic* Keav

 

[Ludwig II]

By the way, I've been thinking about a hand crank starter for the Briggs like what I'm doing for my 34 Elgin Velocipede. There is a nut on the exposed flywheel isn't there?
SB

When any of us are near an engine, there's a nut around?

 

[Dan]

har, lol...

 

[silverbear]

I ask about the flywheel nut because on my Fitchel & Sachs 98cc engine the flywheel nut is not exposed. Even pulling off the cover does not reveal the nut and it looks like a special tool is needed to make access to the flywheel nut. Odd, I think. I'm guess ing the Briggs engine is like most and the flywheel nut is sitting right there in all its glory. Starting with a hand crank as I have in mind, that flywheel nut has to be exposed.
SB

 

[Dan]

That is funky, https://www.google.com/search?q=Fic...lotandem-derny-98cc-zurcher-engine%2F;480;360 9 rows down and on the far right. Wonder why they did that? A nut would be easier.

Also, with a hand crank, Are ya gonna use some sort of ratcheting method so as not to rip up your arm?




(Fitchel & Sachs, I saw them at Wood stock)

 

[Ludwig II]

So long as you can release the starting handle from the engine, there's no problem. It's a low compression unit with lots of flywheel mass. If you're really cautious, it shouldn't be too difficult to factor in a lifter for the exhaust valve.

I just corrected this, because I had invented the "staring handle". It's like a starting handle, but you look at it long enough, then somebody loses patience and pushes you out of the way to do it themselves.

 

[silverbear]

If you have gas in your blood then the music of Fitchel & Sachs was made for you.

Yes, the crank mechanism has a ratchet head so it can freewheel once the engine starts... or at least that's the theory.

A staring handle has a lot of promise for those who can concentrate long and hard and are able to bend spoons, levitate at will and things like that. For me it is hardly long at all before I lose patience. "Come on, start already!" So i need a tool to speed things along.
SB

 

[Dan]

impatiens. My buddy is blind. One day I walked into the kitchen we shared and he is yelling into the microwave at the top of his lungs; "I haven't got all minute!"

 

[xseler]

I've got one of these that I need to start a 'project' with........started it's useful life in 1929 as a washing machine motor.

 

[Ludwig II]

Everybody is boring, they only have them fore and aft or across the frame. Why not vertical?

 

[Dan]

Wholy sheet XMon! Suweet

==============================


LOL Lud. It's on the list

 

[xseler]

Everybody is boring, they only have them fore and aft or across the frame. Why not vertical?

Hmmmm......why not use a hydrostatic drive such as in a lawn tractor??

 

[Ludwig II]

You can mount it 45 degrees to everywhere then. And go backwards.

 

[msrfan]

Yes, indeed I made fun with you (not at, really) and yes I use "marriage" in the nautical way too.

I recall Dale asking that someone scan it once he ran out of giveaways, but that was then and this is now and getting permission again would be a respectful thing to do. I'll post a note to him and ask if he doesn't see this thread and jump in here with a comment. He is currently posting on a thread involving a joint effort to rebuild a year 2.000 Whizzer along with Mason-man for a mutual friend. Nice thread to follow, by the way even though I'll never have a real Whizzer. Actually I'd rather have a Briggs version of his.
SB

Thanks SB, do whatever you want with it. Actually seeing how far we've come with custom DIY builds, I really don't know if anyone would benefit from it or not. This forum is a builders bible if you know where to search. I do appreciate the consideration. You've done so many crazy cool bikes that you could make instruction booklets of your own. Anyway, we all inspire each other with our varied ideas and if my book helped anyone, I'm happy. Just keep making cool bikes and sharing them with us.

 

[silverbear]

Thanks for your kind words. What little I know compared to your wealth of skill and knowledge in the world of mechanics... well there is no comparison. I rely on the skill and advise of others, including you. You have been generous to us all in sharing your wealth. Thank you, good sir.
SB

 

[silverbear]

Dale,
I have a question for you regarding a 5 hsp Briggs engine. It is pictured below along with the 51 Schwinn "kindalikeawhizzer" now sitting in the front window of my trailer home. A couple of years ago I bought the generator below at a local community yard sale. It was sitting off to the side with no price on it and I wasn't even sure it was for sale. It was at our community fire hall and I thought it might be part of the equipment there since it was new looking.

I asked about it and the price was $5.00. What? There was an envelope on it saying it had not been started in 20 years. I bought it, took it home, put some gas in it after changing the oil It started right up and the generator worked, too. Whattadeal, eh? Fasteddy and I made a wheeled carrier for it and I put it away where it has been sitting since. I don't need a generator and got it out today to give to my son. Once I had it up on the tailgate of the pickup I got to looking at it... thought about the "Kindalikeawhizzer" and got second thoughts.

This generator was purchased by a local cabin owner as a backup in case the power went out and by all appearances was never used. Even the muffler looked virtually new. So for all practical purposes this is a new old stock engine. Five horsepower and rated at 203cc's.

By all rights this should work nicely as a Briggs bike engine, wouldn't it? I have a new torque converter that's been sitting on the shelf neglected for the past year...

http://gokartsusa.com/Gokart_Torque_Converter_Compatible_.aspx

...and I thought the two might go nicely together. Is this a good idea or not so good, in your opinion? I would barebones the engine along the lines of what you have done on your Briggs builds and would probably use a hand crank starter. If this is a dopey line of thought I'd appreciate knowing now rather than later. I'm picturing the torque converter with a nice copper guard/cover to go along with the copper gas tank. Would this make a good rig? If not I'll continue on with the 147cc Jacobsen 2 stroke. I value you opinion, sir.
SB

 

[msrfan]

Nice generator SB. I personally don't like separating the armature from the engine shaft. It's not always easy to do. Also the Briggs shaft is probably tapered and may not be long enough to use. And there are tons of those motors still available. On the plus side, it may be supported on the PTO side with a ball bearing, which would make it more desirable for your project. If you decide to take it apart, try to make it repairable if you need to reassemble it. In any case, the price was right, you've had no use for it and it's in your possession. As far as a crank start, I have some hit and miss engines like that. I always push the intake valve is to get it rotating. So I think you will need a compression release. A rope start may be more suitable with or without a release. A large start pulley would make an easy pull. Tell me your plan to make a crank starter. Just because I haven't done one doesn't mean it's a bad idea.

 

[silverbear]

Thanks for responding. I have the manual for the generator and included is a schematic of the engine. It does not have a tapered shaft, but it does look like the shaft is too short. Dang. But best to know that before tearing it apart. Looks like my son gets a generator.

The hand crank engine starter is something I got to thinking about after running across an old brace and bit drill. I remembered a hand crank starter I had on an Allis Chalmers tractor and another on an MGTD roadster and I thought, "why not"?

The experiment is on my 3 speed Elgin Velocipede build thread with some conversations on the idea with contributors. The latest version of the idea uses a ratcheting type of brace and at least for the 98cc Villiars engine it will be dandy. I've already ground down a 1/2 socket shaft to duplicate the tapered end on a typical bit used on an old brace. Mine was made in the 1800's to early 1900's so has a nice old look to it. I picked one with an 8" diameter sweep to keep it on the small side. Whether or not it would be suitable for the larger 5 hs Briggs I don't know, but it is an easy turn over on the Villiars.
I'll be adding some pictures to that thread by tomorrow showing the clip holders which will affix the hand crank to the seat post.

Guess I'll do some looking around for an older 5 hs locally. Hardly worth buying one on ebay with what shipping would cost. I do like your Briggs builds and am not liking how my Jacobsen engine will have to sit too high in the 51 cantilever frame. The Briggs 5 fills the frame so nicely and I like the thumping sound of a four stroke. No hurry and lots of time to think about it.

With the right Briggs engine, what do you think of using a torque converter with it? It is set up for a final chain drive, but could I use a pulley instead and keep the sheave final drive?

Thanks for you input, as always. You've saved me some aggravation with the short output shaft.
SB

 

[msrfan]

Great idea. The torque-a-verter works very well with these motors. Just make sure your block has the four threaded holes to mount the jack shaft plate. The plate eliminates the need for making another mount for your reduction. The motor with the plate and torque converter all mounted, and with the sprocket to pulley conversion, determines the placement in the frame to line up with the rear sheave. My only concern about this setup is the extra width and pedal clearance, but it's been dealt with in other builds successfully, so you won't have a problem. I saw your cranking idea with a ratcheting brace and looks like a cool way to start it depending if you can crank past the compression. If you have to make a compression release, you can make it cable or lever operated so you can set the release just enough to crank and run, and then close the release. It should start with a small amount of compression loss and will run like a worn out motor until you close it.

 

[silverbear]

Thank you for your comments. Since I have the torque-a-verter it makes sense to use it. And that's valuable information on the compression release. I had thought in terms of all or nothing... not leaving a bit of compression loss so the engine would both turn over more easily, but also start! I had not considered that. Excellent! Even if I stick with the Jacobsen the torque-a-verter is worth a try. At 147ccs and fairly high revving it should be powerful enough for that kind of transmission. Thanks again.
SB