49cc's on a Schwinn

FOG, is the SS inside the hub? Is the thru hole for the axle?
If part of the assembly is not fully illustrated, not to worry. This is not a photography forum. Though we act like it upon occasion. I am eager to see how this developed and may copy everything you have designed. They say imitation is nigh flattery. You a knocking out some good stuff.
Tom
 
Good character FOG is never a flaw and doing your best is always good.

My back issues limit my machine, lathe or mill time to well under an hours duration...standing or sitting; exceed that and I'm laid up for days...so supervising is my lot in the tool room these days. Walking or riding, in a forward bent fashion, is fine though & I'm not complaining. I do miss the work though & it makes progress on just about everything a tedious process.

Rick C.
 
Progress. Got a rotor.

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Runout, aka "wobble", is .008" and I hope that'll be OK. Time will tell.
 
Rick I have the opposite of your problem, I’ve been picking our garden and started having back problems. Picking beans and peas for too long really hurts. Our okra is so tall I can reach up to cut some.
 
Greg, can't help you on the pea front, I love fresh shell peas. Sugar peas stir fried with beef tenderloin, teriyaki, and thickened with corn starch. Yes!

But beans I got scientific on. 2”x4” x 8’s drove in best you can so a top bar of the same does not look to ugly. Kitchen cord string 12" parallel to the ground. Then zig-zag laced from the parallel string to top bar for as far as you want to go.

Mine was sixteen feet long. Planted with Kentucky Wonder Pole Beans.

They are climbers so no stooping to aggravate your back. Picked young are as good as any string bean. When you have a freezer full let em go.

Make good shell beans too. Kentucky Wonder Beans have been feeding our family for fifty years or more
If I had to I would ride my Sportsman Flyer fifty miles for some good beans.

Tom
 
Choice ride. I have one but it's a 5 speed and the womans model. Salvaged it off the back of a scrap truck for 20 bucks. IllI'post a pic of it later. Like the dual exhaust.did you see the dual spark plug billet head they have? Also i seen a dual carb intake. Just go dual everything lol. Would be cool though.
 
Spent part of the day re-mounting my bicycle to make fabricating on the back end easier. Plan A is to lose the dropouts in favor of axle slots I'll make out of 1/4" plate and there's a caliper mount to figure out too.

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Probably should tack some temporary structure in before I chop the drops. For all I know it'll go "boing" and get sideways if I don't.
 
I see by my build thread I've been working on slotted axle plates for the better part of a month now, but it sure seems like longer than that! They've been giving me a little trouble ....

But here's where I'm at now. Just about ready to weld up.

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Plan A was too tack some tubing alongside the stays, chop the dropouts off, and then symmetrically spread the stays with my portapower thereby preserving the centerline. That went out the window when a tack snapped and the chainstay on the pedal side jumped out about an inch! Oh no. Who knew where center was then? Not me! All I knew was I had 4 tubes sticking out the back.

It took some head scatching, which is why I haven't much hair left , :), but I got it figured out with the lash up you see in the picture. I dunno about .001 accurate but I'm sure I'll be within a 32nd.
 
Fog what you and people that have the ability to build this kind of frame work call close is much more accurate than the original, to the general public it’s outstanding. We tend to be more hard on ourselves than we need to be.
 
Venice Motor Bikes said:
You can find the center line by using some string from the head tube down past the seat tube to the rear of the frame.

Another thing i've found when fabricating, is that a good 'eyeball' will get you extremely close! (^)
Click to expand...

Norm and Greg I gotta' agree too much angst/effort is often aimed at areas that aren't even critical to a 32nd. of an inch let alone .005". Save the micrometers for engine work, but keep it tighter than the guys on cars and cameras. I've my doubts that their concept "good enough" is even acceptable for government work or tossing grenades!

Here's to the good eye and a pox on the stink eye!

Rick C.
 
Got my axle plates done and they're passin' da eyeball test. It'll roll!

I'm gonna run a tensioner on the pedal chain instead of the drive chain and I still need to make and weld on a mount for that.

Unlike the front caliper I need a 2 piece mount for the rear so I can make it adjustable to follow the axle. Slots are done, you can see them in the 2nd pic, but I still need to make the secondary mount ... and at this point we're back in the category of "things I didn't know about bicycle construction".

It seems bicycles carry their brake rotors on the left side of the bike. I didn't know that. But that's where the drive sprocket goes ... so I decided to put the rotor on the right because the freewheel is a much smaller dia. More clearance for the caliper. Which means if I want the hydraulic line to point forward, and I do, it has to go on the bottom of the rotor! I wasn't planning on that. Oh well. I'll make it work.

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Looking good FOG. I've mounted disks on both sides and for best location I'd give the pedal chain side design the nod, but it's not necessarily the easiest to install. I like the caliper bracket you've incorporated as well and yes there's that trade off issue of running lines but you do have greater sprocket clearance and less chain oil from the pedal side to foul rotor and pads.

What disc ready hub and wheel have you selected? Will you be lacing your own hub or converting an existing wheel and hub for the purpose?

This is a great upgrade for the frame you're building on or any frame set up with vertical drops intended to be used for multispeed bikes. The horizontal design is so much better for single speed motorized bikes running both pedal and motor chains. The ability to use axle adjusters on the horizontal is a big plus to me as well. Obviously your drop plate greatly enhances the strength of the drops and stays frame juncture.

As to chain tensioners I'm pretty sure I've voiced my approval for these & my many reasons why, perhaps too many times already.

Though I love the well designed purpose built frames for motorizing I'm still that boy at heart who just wants to put an old lawn mower engine on my Schwinn or Monarch bicycle and climb those hills! So I'm a fan of converting bikes that you have or find which can be safely converted to motor use.

RickC.
 
Yeah FOG my mental clutch was slipping this early morning thirty...thanks for posting the photos for the Old guy. I love the work you've put in on this project!

Rick C.
 
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