100:1 Mix
- Thread starter Retmachinist
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- 100:1 amsoil motorized bicycle opti
Kristof
New Member
Set your gap to 0.030 inches...
Kristof
New Member
How do i do that exactly? Do i have to buy the spark plug gap gauge and then force it to be .030 inches?
Why is it supposed to be .030 inches?
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Kristof,
Just go by any auto parts store ( Autozone, Napa.....ect. ) and pick up a cheap spark plug gapping tool, only a buck or so.
The width of the plug gap is critical for allowing the ignition spark to be at it's optimal strength for the best ignition of the fuel air mixture, if the gap is 0.020 it will produce a smaller shorter spark than a 0.030 gap, the gap is set based on the strength of the ignition system, if the gap is adjusted to say 0.050 then it will be too wide for the ignition/coil output strength of these engines and the strength of the spark will be reduced because it has to jump farther than it can jump and still be a strong hot spark.
Hope this helps with the ?'s
Peace, map
Just go by any auto parts store ( Autozone, Napa.....ect. ) and pick up a cheap spark plug gapping tool, only a buck or so.
The width of the plug gap is critical for allowing the ignition spark to be at it's optimal strength for the best ignition of the fuel air mixture, if the gap is 0.020 it will produce a smaller shorter spark than a 0.030 gap, the gap is set based on the strength of the ignition system, if the gap is adjusted to say 0.050 then it will be too wide for the ignition/coil output strength of these engines and the strength of the spark will be reduced because it has to jump farther than it can jump and still be a strong hot spark.
Hope this helps with the ?'s
Peace, map
Last edited:
Fulltimer
New Member
Some gauges have a little notch cut in them. You put that notch on the piece that goes from the edge of the plug to the center and twist it to adjust the gap.
I use a feeler gauge that has a bunch of metal strips with each marked with the thickness. You can used more than one strip if needed to get the desired thickness. Tap on the piece that goes to the center electrode until you have the desired gap.
After you have done it once it becomes a piece of cake to gap a plug!
Terry
I use a feeler gauge that has a bunch of metal strips with each marked with the thickness. You can used more than one strip if needed to get the desired thickness. Tap on the piece that goes to the center electrode until you have the desired gap.
After you have done it once it becomes a piece of cake to gap a plug!
Terry
happycheapskate
New Member
Yeah, just do it slowly and don't bend it much. If you bend the part too many times it will break off later, maybe in the motor.
Goat Herder
Gutter Rider
Here is an interesting article I found. Two Cycle Motor Oils I know this is cruel lol its as long as this thread
but there is interesting intellect in it.
but there is interesting intellect in it.
happycheapskate
New Member
That is really interesting and relevant about how thicker oil can starve a motor for gas and possibly oil, too, if the carb is not re-tuned. This may be significant with the happytime NT carbs, as even a couple extra ounces of oil does make a noticeable difference to me. A lot of the people who are dissappointed with their motors on break in, using the thicker ratio, might be pleasantly surprised when the break in is over and the bike is getting more gas than oil, and runs a lot more pleasantly.
Goat Herder's article explains what happened to my CAG bike engine. When I use Opti-2, it will be only at 40:1 to keep the engine from overheating and locking up. And yes, my plug was tan and run only on Opti-2 at 72:1. At the manufacturer's recommended ratio it is a good breakin oil to get the eutectic benefit. Then switch to something cheaper.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
I pay the extra money to have the eutectic benefits all the time. The performance at good health is well worth the extra couple bucks to me.
happycheapskate
New Member
I tried looking up definitions for "eutectic" and got a voluminuous book of chemistry jargon.
What does this mean, please, D T G? Do you mean the gasoline/fuel vaporizes faster and burns better?
What does this mean, please, D T G? Do you mean the gasoline/fuel vaporizes faster and burns better?
Pablo
Master Bike Builder & Forum Sponsor
I think in this case it's just a marketing term.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
The entire mixture reacts under temperature the same way (melts and solidifies), this means different substances in the oil all react at the same temps, instead of different substances reacting at differing temperatures. The result is a superb lubricant in Opti2's application.
eu·tec·tic/yo͞oˈtektik/
Adjective: Relating to or denoting a mixture of substances (in fixed proportions) that melts and solidifies at a single temperature that is lower than the melting points of the separate constituents or of any other mixture of them.
Interlube International, Manufacturers of premium Opti oils, Opti-2 and Opti-4
eu·tec·tic/yo͞oˈtektik/
Adjective: Relating to or denoting a mixture of substances (in fixed proportions) that melts and solidifies at a single temperature that is lower than the melting points of the separate constituents or of any other mixture of them.
Interlube International, Manufacturers of premium Opti oils, Opti-2 and Opti-4
Opti-2 makes the claim that their oil is different due to it's "eutectic" properties, which they describe as improving the surface metal of the cylinder wall instead of just lubricating. They have some info on their website showing it actually smooths the metal surfaces, thereby further reducing friction.
To me, it sounds awefully snake-oily, but I have been using it with great results so far. Engine runs great, NO smoke and NO oily splatter on wheels and frame.
To me, it sounds awefully snake-oily, but I have been using it with great results so far. Engine runs great, NO smoke and NO oily splatter on wheels and frame.
One more Opti-2 option for people who can't find it. Yesterday I was in my local Family Farm store (similar to a Tractor Supply) and they have opti-2 but also another product called US2 oil. Sold in the same 1.8oz packets, same mix of 1 packet to a gallon, and same fine print that it is made by Interlube, makers of Opti2.
Their site (us2oil.com) shows all the same marketing stuff as opti including the "3rd generation oil".
Their site (us2oil.com) shows all the same marketing stuff as opti including the "3rd generation oil".
decoherence
New Member
i was running opti-2 @ 72:1. the plug looked like it would like less oil.
i went to 100:1. before i was getting about 30-32mph.
now i got up to 35mph. i wasn't even really trying it might have let me go faster if i tried.
before switching to opti-2 it took about half a block to start.
@ 72:1 it took about 15 feet.
@ 100:1 it starts with any enough effort that turns the crank.
i'm loving it.
i went to 100:1. before i was getting about 30-32mph.
now i got up to 35mph. i wasn't even really trying it might have let me go faster if i tried.
before switching to opti-2 it took about half a block to start.
@ 72:1 it took about 15 feet.
@ 100:1 it starts with any enough effort that turns the crank.
i'm loving it.
DuctTapedGoat
Active Member
Heck, since going to opti2 I can start my bike by pulling on the tire with the back wheel off the ground and the clutch engaged.
Goat Herder
Gutter Rider
A lot of that is carb jetting too. At sea level where you are that richer fuel you are getting is prolly what the Doctor Ordered per say