Issues that only a pro can help me with, spark issues help!

Do you think this engine is simply defective and will not ever work?

  • Yes.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • No.

    Votes: 4 66.7%

  • Because it is from Goygofast on Ebay.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Nothing to do with it being from Boygofast on Ebay.

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .
M

Mojo

New Member
Hello guys, i am fairly new to posting on this forum, i just bought a new kit from *that's right you guessed when you saw the title...* BoyGoFast on ebay, it got to my door in 6 days, i also ordered there occ chopper mount and welded it to my schwinn occ rather than u-clamping it..., mounted the new Z80 66/80cc slant fire engine onto the motor mount. Got it nice and snug, i did the whole install basicly. when it came time to start it for the first time...nothing no spark no putt putt putt, i first looked to see if gas was making into the engine, and it was, i then checked to see if maybe the cdi wires had poor connection or if maybe the wires were not connected, they were everything was a go and it stumped the SH*T out of me so i took and changed the plug, nothing, changed the plug wire from cdi to plug, nothing, checked to see if the magneto wires had lost there connections or if they were not soldered or if it had been installed back-wards, they were fine and well done for a BGF engine... so i scratched my head and then decided to change out the magneto, i took a magneto straight off of my first build *that still runs perfect and was run that same day, i started it before useing it on the chopper it ran, once i put it on the chopper and put it all back together
i attempted to start it... Nothing so i checked the plug to see if it had even Fired, it had not! all that i have done and nothing has worked, 2 new plugs, 2 magneto's, 2 cdi's, 2 plug wires, so i took my exhaust off the bike to see if maybe it was unable to breath the way it needed too start, it still did Nothing. the engine is Not seized and the piston is moving smoothly. i have no fking clue what is going on here ANY insight would be nice, i do not have a camera for photos, nor the electric meters and what not to give readings, all i can say is HELP ME FOR THE LOVE OF MB'ers EVERYWHERE !:-||:-||:-||:-||
 
Did you bypass the kill switch?

Sometimes they cause the kit to have no spark right out of the box.
 
killercanuck said:
were your plugs wet when you were swapping them out?
Click to expand...

not wet at all, no smell of gas and never fired, witch brought the question of is it geting gas to mind, gas travels through the fuel line :-||into the carb no issue (stock NT Carb) starting to wounder if there is an issue inside the carb stopping the flow of fuel from entering the engine its self, regardless the plug still has not ever fired
 
That sounds like it could be your issue. (You did install the fuel filter, magnet side up?) Sometimes new tanks can/will have crud in them from the manufacturing process.

The first thing I'd do is drop your float bowl(2 screws) and see if any gas even flows into it via the Float Valve - a teeny bit of crud can block it. Even continuously pressing the primer should fill it to the point of it dripping out the intake.

If that is flowing, remove the jet and make sure its cleared. - even tinier crud can block that one.

Norm's carb rebuild thread is a good read, so you know what you're getting into:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=302

gl, keep us posted. :)
 
killercanuck said:
That sounds like it could be your issue. (You did install the fuel filter, magnet side up?) Sometimes new tanks can/will have crud in them from the manufacturing process.

The first thing I'd do is drop your float bowl(2 screws) and see if any gas even flows into it via the Float Valve - a teeny bit of crud can block it. Even continuously pressing the primer should fill it to the point of it dripping out the intake.

If that is flowing, remove the jet and make sure its cleared. - even tinier crud can block that one.

Norm's carb rebuild thread is a good read, so you know what you're getting into:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=302

gl, keep us posted. :)
Click to expand...

there appears to only be one screw in this carb, in the center of the carb bowl there is a hole, to the best of my knowledge there should be a screw with a red ''carbon or cardborad?'' washer screwed into it, when i pres the primer the clear fuel line does show gas flow, yet nothing seems to have gone into the engine that i am aware of, also it does not seem to leak out of the carb more than maybe 3 drips a minute when left in the on full flow position. witch i found odd. also to the best of my knowledge the stock NT carb that comes with most kits does not use a flot, rather a needle/slide maybe the slide is installed improperly ?:-||
 
Make sure you have the fuel filter installed correctly. I know - been there - done that!

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
 
BigBlue said:
Make sure you have the fuel filter installed correctly. I know - been there - done that!

Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Click to expand...

i am not running a fuel filter, i did a thorough wash of the tank using Gas, it is 100% clean and Funkless, the only filter my fuel see's is within my gas Can, and the filter that is attached to the fuel cockpit valve, as i said in one of my posts the fuel does appear to be traveling through the line into the carb. there is only an 1'' 1/2 of fuel line from the tank to the carb vale due to the fact its a 20'' schwinn occ sting ray, and the fact i mounted the tank with only the one rear mount in the middle of that section of the frame so the gas tanks vale is 2'' away from the carb valve.:-||
 
You're wrong about the NT not having a float. There are two screws that hold the float bowl to the carburetor. Remove them and remove the float bowl (fuel petcock turned off). The float is the white plastic donut that simply floats in the bowl. It pushes up on a needle valve that shuts off fuel flowing into the carb, or allows it to flow as the fuel level in the bowl goes down. With the float bowl off turn the petcock on and see if fuel flows out of the carb. If not either the petcock or the needle valve is plugged or not opening.
Get back to us with what you find and we'll offer more help.

And regardless of how well you cleaned the tank you need to install a fuel filter.
Tom
 
2door said:
You're wrong about the NT not having a float. There are two screws that hold the float bowl to the carburetor. Remove them and remove the float bowl (fuel petcock turned off). The float is the white plastic donut that simply floats in the bowl. It pushes up on a needle valve that shuts off fuel flowing into the carb, or allows it to flow as the fuel level in the bowl goes down. With the float bowl off turn the petcock on and see if fuel flows out of the carb. If not either the petcock or the needle valve is plugged or not opening.
Get back to us with what you find and we'll offer more help.

And regardless of how well you cleaned the tank you need to install a fuel filter.
Tom
Click to expand...

good info to know Thank you 2door, i opened my float bowl the float appears to bee working correctly, flows when it should and stops when it should not, but there was only one screw in it not two, i took a screw off my other build and put it on, gave it another shot and it did nothing, is possible that this engine is just ''no good'' and flat out does not work for No reason?, there has too be some thing that would make it run correct?, we kind of strayed off topic a bit, not complaining i learned a bit and any feed back is good feedback for sure, but the main issue for me is Why the plug will not receive spark, there appears to be Zero power to the spark plug, although it is true i cannot honestly say this with out the word Appears because i do not have the gadgets necessary to take readings, i would assume a fuel flow issue would be moderately easy to solve, my main concern is the fact it will not turn over due to lack of spark.:-||
 
Let's go back to square one: How are you confirming the plug is/is not firing?

The best method is to remove the spark plug, reconnect the wire and lay the plug firmly against the cylinder head cooling fins then by whatever means you have, rotate the engine crankshaft. You can either suspend the rear wheel and spin it, clutch engaged. Or simply roll the bike forward at a good pace. If the ignition system is working you'll see a spark at the plug's electrodes. If no spark, start with the spark plug boot. If you're using the plastic kit supplied boot, throw it out in the street and go to an auto parts store and get a good automotive quality one. Let is know what you find as far as spark/no spark.
Tom
 
2door said:
Let's go back to square one: How are you confirming the plug is/is not firing?

The best method is to remove the spark plug, reconnect the wire and lay the plug firmly against the cylinder head cooling fins then by whatever means you have, rotate the engine crankshaft. You can either suspend the rear wheel and spin it, clutch engaged. Or simply roll the bike forward at a good pace. If the ignition system is working you'll see a spark at the plug's electrodes. If no spark, start with the spark plug boot. If you're using the plastic kit supplied boot, throw it out in the street and go to an auto parts store and get a good automotive quality one. Let is know what you find as far as spark/no spark.
Tom
Click to expand...

ok i have just added a cable from the cdi to the boot plug i had laying around
http://www.pocketbikeparts.com/Spark_Plug_Cable_Split_Fire_Twin_Core_p/pmsp122.htm i th:-||here was spark!. so i rigged it back up and attempted a start, Nothing it is acting the same way, i was confirming there was no spark by assumption, no color to the end of the new plugs indicated to me there had been no spark, i had not LOOKED for spark via grounding off on the fins, so i am not sure if it already had spark with the prior set up, but either way its not cranking over, maybe the spark is not reaching the gas?, one plug is set to 0.25 gap, and the other is the plug straight out of the kit.
 
Take a look at your wiring connections. Black to black, blue to blue, white wire not connected to or touching any metal part. Disconnect the kill switch wires for testing.
Make sure you have good electrical connections where those wires are spliced together. We always suggest they be soldered and never rely on the kit supplied plug-in connectors. Make sure none of the wires can come in contact with any metal parts.

Check the plug wire connection to the CDI. It must 'screw' into the CDI and the center core of the wire, the conductor, must be firmly connected to the little screw that protrudes upward inside the wire holder portion of the CDI.

Keep us informed. We'll keep trying to get you running.
Tom
 
Just for kicks, try a shot of ether, or a few drops of gas down the plug hole, then try to start it.
 
2door said:
Take a look at your wiring connections. Black to black, blue to blue, white wire not connected to or touching any metal part. Disconnect the kill switch wires for testing.
Make sure you have good electrical connections where those wires are spliced together. We always suggest they be soldered and never rely on the kit supplied plug-in connectors. Make sure none of the wires can come in contact with any metal parts.

Check the plug wire connection to the CDI. It must 'screw' into the CDI and the center core of the wire, the conductor, must be firmly connected to the little screw that protrudes upward inside the wire holder portion of the CDI.

Keep us informed. We'll keep trying to get you running.
Tom
Click to expand...
i have done all this, pretty standard stuff, did not help.:-||
 
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