Wayne,
Here's what I've come up with that I don't already have on hand. (I have the engine and it is mounted in a 1950 Schwinn Panther).
Comet double pulley clutch (109.00)
Variable sheave (65.00)
Whizzer sheave (65.00) although I may make my own sheave from a bicycle wheel.
Bearings (15.00)
jackshaft (24.00)
The above come to a total of $279.00
I have aluminum plate, so am not counting that.
Not accounted for is the idler.
You mentioned the source for the Comet clutch.
McMaster Carr is where you ordered the variable sheave.
Where did the bearings, jackshaft and idler come from?
Could any of you who understand the transfer of power go through it from beginning to end? The double pulley Comet clutch is mounted to the engine shaft. What happens from there on? I don't even understand why two pulleys are required on the Comet Clutch.
Many thanks you guys. I'm slow with all this, but once I get it then it's mine and I can go from there. I've got more re-reading to do before I get this clear in my head. Things are harder for me since I was hit by lightning in 1995 and suffered a traumatic brain injury. That's my excuse for being slow with some of this. I also don't understand how the variable sheave works.
What I do know is that what I see and hear in the video is what I want for my bike. Any help I can get from where I am to where I want to go is much appreciated.
SB
Hey SB. I already had the comet clutch. I like it because it has a smaller pully than a Maxtorque, allowing use of a smaller driven pully on the jackshaft, to keep the transfer case physicaly smaller. It is a standard oem part for mowers ect and they come with 2 sheaves.you only use one belt on it though for this application. The 2 sheave clutch has a much longer bushing than a single sheave, and will last much longer.
Maxtorque would work,but I'm using a 2:1 ratio on the primary and that would be a 6.5" pully on the jack with the MT. With the Comet, I'm using a 5" on the jackshaft. Good thing about a MT clutch is they can be had with sealed needle bearings.
I bought the bearings off Ebay. they have a snap ring on their OD, and 2 setscrews for the ID. I bought the keyed shaft from a kart co. on Ebay but Mc Masters has it too. I tried to find the 3/4 bearings there but had trouble navigating to them without a part #.
So, The Comet clutch drives a 5" pully on the jackshaft. There's am adjustable 2" idler between and below the pullies for belt adjudtment.
I made the jackshaft long enough to stick put of the varipully to be able to mount the bike shock spring on the end. The shaft is internaly threaded to accept a 3/8" threaded rod that is used to retain abn adjust the spring. I used a Continental aircraft engine valve spring retainer washer on the end of the spring to bear the adjustment nuts against.
I made a cup like adaptor on the lathe from a 1.5" pipe cap,, with a hole in it to slip over the shaft and fit where the original pully spring was. It wasn't quite deep enough for internal clearence so I added a couple of big machine spacer washers(1.5 idx2.25od) before installing the cup The new spring bears against this.
The control idler is mounted on a piece of 1" sq tubing, and it swivels on a mower axle bolt,bushing attached to the lower rear plate area.
I'll take some more close-up detail pics for you later.
The shifter lever needs to be kinda long as I have it, because it takes about 25 lbs force to pull it back and lock it to compress the pully spring an make the vari pully spread apart to reach low gear. When the shiftlever is moved to the side, the gate unlstches and the spring pressure throws the lever foreward as the pully closes together for high gear.
On my next one, I might try mounting the shift lever on the trans case with the lever more horizontal as a jokjey shift rather than the tank shifter.
