BarelyAWake, thank for your help yet once again. When school starts I'll bring the recess snacks.
Steve.
Steve.
The Rustoration Build Off
- Thread starter BarelyAWake
- Start date
thank you so much!! I was going to add a white star on thr side and ammo cans sound cool
thanks Again
WF
Heres my tank w/ brass fittings.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._213190743316_753338316_3209743_4885990_n.jpg
Nice KULUKIN, plannin' on similar plumbing myself - to distract the eye from the chinese engine and get a lil brass & copper in there 'cause it's stylie lol Hey - what carb are ya usin?
I suppose ya could make a mini tank to go in the shell - but it's capacity would be somewhat lacking. I think the best bet if ya cant get a full-sized in frame tank made/wanna keep the original - is to do the food/juice can trick that seems to becoming popular, I think it's both effective and stylish *shrug* The price is right and that's a fact lol
BTW - didja get some pics of yer painted bike? Did I miss 'em somewheres?
Yeah, I've heard about it but not actually seen it done. From what I gather and from checkin' out the "tanks" - seems the only practical way to go about it is to have a soft bladder/bag in it... which I don't much like the idea of personally. I had initially thought that perhaps the tank halves could be sealed w/silver solder and/or brazed but after lookin' at them I scrapped that idea.
I suppose ya could make a mini tank to go in the shell - but it's capacity would be somewhat lacking. I think the best bet if ya cant get a full-sized in frame tank made/wanna keep the original - is to do the food/juice can trick that seems to becoming popular, I think it's both effective and stylish *shrug* The price is right and that's a fact lol
BTW - didja get some pics of yer painted bike? Did I miss 'em somewheres?
Yea, i think the bike is turning out good!Nice KULUKIN, plannin' on similar plumbing myself - to distract the eye from the chinese engine and get a lil brass & copper in there 'cause it's stylie lol Hey - what carb are ya usin?
Yeah, I've heard about it but not actually seen it done. From what I gather and from checkin' out the "tanks" - seems the only practical way to go about it is to have a soft bladder/bag in it... which I don't much like the idea of personally. I had initially thought that perhaps the tank halves could be sealed w/silver solder and/or brazed but after lookin' at them I scrapped that idea.
I suppose ya could make a mini tank to go in the shell - but it's capacity would be somewhat lacking. I think the best bet if ya cant get a full-sized in frame tank made/wanna keep the original - is to do the food/juice can trick that seems to becoming popular, I think it's both effective and stylish *shrug* The price is right and that's a fact lol
BTW - didja get some pics of yer painted bike? Did I miss 'em somewheres?
(Import+10.29.09.jpg (image))
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
MT-A4 Pocket Bike Modified Carburetor
Performance Parts
Thanks, I dont know if it improved performance, I think I'm going to use all stock parts and do some test runs, see if theres a difference.
Tanks? I made my tank b4 i knew anything, didn't weld in mounts, didn't figure the threaded fittings into the design, so all that stuff had to be done while welded on the frame. I'm actually thinking about making another one w/ a Worksman.
But I still love the results.
Performance Parts
Thanks, I dont know if it improved performance, I think I'm going to use all stock parts and do some test runs, see if theres a difference.
Tanks? I made my tank b4 i knew anything, didn't weld in mounts, didn't figure the threaded fittings into the design, so all that stuff had to be done while welded on the frame. I'm actually thinking about making another one w/ a Worksman.
But I still love the results.
cool **** hey that aint what i typed lol !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Ok!!! Got something done today!!!
I sanded off some rust and primed the bike!!
I plan on adding its final paint coat(s) by the end of this week (next friday, not today lol)
anyways, heres the pics:
Weekend-funs garage builds: Primed and dryin'
Cool Bike! And you're exhaust pipe w expansion chamber is set up perfect with correct distances from head to ex chamber then to baffle end piece. I tried many diff pipe set ups, and that confiquration on your bike worked the best for me on one of my stretched cruisers. Got er goin at least 34mph with instant speed increase when I put that type of pipe on MB. Good Luck
Heres my tank w/ brass fittings.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._213190743316_753338316_3209743_4885990_n.jpg
weekend-fun - Wow man - I love that green fosho, ifn ya detail it w/cream (antique white) it'll defo look the classy vintage bike it is! Good choice man 
After much deliberation, consideration, pondering, and wandering off to jus' not think about it for awhile - I came up with a forward motor mount! I had initially planned on stealin' Tom's welded design but grew concerned as the shiftkit relies on slight adjustment of the motor's position to tension the secondary drive chain... and the freakin' last thing in the world I wanted was to have any sort of tensioner wheel anywhere on this build lol While I've not had any problems with the ones on my Schwinn and I know sometimes they're needful... I still hates them o.o
It's obv not been welded together or trimmed down yet (I always cut oversize then trim to fit, isa woodworking thang lol) and I'll be makin' a faceplate to hide the half circle on the engine's original mount - but now that it's together it looks simple as heck... tryin' to figure out HOW to make it that way wasn't so simple lol
Oh right - while previously I had used the tools at work (die grinder, bandsaw, etc.) to make the rear motor mounts, I went and got meself a xmas present - a Dremel 4000, the latest and greatest model they've come up with to complement the cordless Dremel Stylus that I've had for years. With the fiber reinforced cut-off wheel it went through that 1/8" steel like butter - far, far faster & easier than the pneumatic die grinder w/a cut-off wheel, which I totally didn't expect
It seems a lil pricey at first glance - but seriously worth every penny if ya wanna machine stuff like this at home: Dremel 4000-3/34 Variable Speed Rotary Tool
After much deliberation, consideration, pondering, and wandering off to jus' not think about it for awhile - I came up with a forward motor mount! I had initially planned on stealin' Tom's welded design but grew concerned as the shiftkit relies on slight adjustment of the motor's position to tension the secondary drive chain... and the freakin' last thing in the world I wanted was to have any sort of tensioner wheel anywhere on this build lol While I've not had any problems with the ones on my Schwinn and I know sometimes they're needful... I still hates them o.o
It's obv not been welded together or trimmed down yet (I always cut oversize then trim to fit, isa woodworking thang lol) and I'll be makin' a faceplate to hide the half circle on the engine's original mount - but now that it's together it looks simple as heck... tryin' to figure out HOW to make it that way wasn't so simple lol
Oh right - while previously I had used the tools at work (die grinder, bandsaw, etc.) to make the rear motor mounts, I went and got meself a xmas present - a Dremel 4000, the latest and greatest model they've come up with to complement the cordless Dremel Stylus that I've had for years. With the fiber reinforced cut-off wheel it went through that 1/8" steel like butter - far, far faster & easier than the pneumatic die grinder w/a cut-off wheel, which I totally didn't expect
It seems a lil pricey at first glance - but seriously worth every penny if ya wanna machine stuff like this at home: Dremel 4000-3/34 Variable Speed Rotary Tool
Last edited:
I really like that welded expansion chamber!!
Heres my tank w/ brass fittings.
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._213190743316_753338316_3209743_4885990_n.jpg
Have you had any problems with the last drops of gas having to flow up hill through the copper tube to get to the carb??
Also, is that stick shiffter just for looks??
lol - if yer down to the last few drops yer done anyway right? Ya know, it seems those loops were somewhat commonplace in the early 1900's, particularly on singles... I'm planning on copying the idea but I was just wonderin' - I assume that it was an early attempt at a sediment/water trap? Anyone have any info on why they put those loops in the fuel line? There couldn't have been enough movement to need slack and I just can't see it as style alone lol Seems they're emulating it still on these reproductions;
Timeless Motor Company/Classic Antique Vintage Street and Board Track Motorcycles
could be the same reason they did loops in brake lines in cars. in case of an accident, if everything gets shifted, the brakes will still work, 'cause the lines roll out.
in the case of a gas line on a bike, with the motor shaking around like crazy (which i'm sure they did back then,) it would have some "give" to it. a looped design would act like a spring.
in the case of a gas line on a bike, with the motor shaking around like crazy (which i'm sure they did back then,) it would have some "give" to it. a looped design would act like a spring.
I was actually talking about the fact that the high point of the copper tube is almost midway up the tank. When the tank empties to that level, it should stop flowing because now is has to flow up hill.
(I know I said "last drops' but thats not what I was referring to...)
(I know I said "last drops' but thats not what I was referring to...)
weekend-fun - Wow man - I love that green fosho, ifn ya detail it w/cream (antique white) it'll defo look the classy vintage bike it is! Good choice man
Thanks a bunch guys!!!Today we started winter break, so no school for 2 weeks
!!! Nice quality time to work the bike 
Looking good everyone!
got rid of my chain tensioner already. the chain slipped off, derailed, got stuck between my sprocket and spokes, and pretty much shredded my 28 tooth sprocket.
and the funny thing is, i knew that would happen. no matter how cool i made the tensioner, i just knew it would fail. i think it just flexed enough to let the chain sneak off of it.
so i put the 30 tooth back on, and sat there for awhile, smoked, swore, the usual, when it came to me again, like it always does.
my rear dropouts are angled upwards. i just needed to get one chain or the other a little tighter. so i took a link out of the motor side, added one to the pedal side. before, i kept trying to keep the wheel centered in the middle of the drop-out slots. but by moving the wheel back, on the upward angle, it tensioned the pedal side, while doing nothing to the motor side.
fixed.
duh.
then i put my old 1956 goodyear/columbia back together as a bicycle and it's going on craigs tomorrow.
i woulda went riding today, but there were like 30 mph gusts of wind. i went to the store and almost went moped-a-sailing.
changed a few things on the colson. i'll get some more fotos soon...
and the funny thing is, i knew that would happen. no matter how cool i made the tensioner, i just knew it would fail. i think it just flexed enough to let the chain sneak off of it.
so i put the 30 tooth back on, and sat there for awhile, smoked, swore, the usual, when it came to me again, like it always does.
my rear dropouts are angled upwards. i just needed to get one chain or the other a little tighter. so i took a link out of the motor side, added one to the pedal side. before, i kept trying to keep the wheel centered in the middle of the drop-out slots. but by moving the wheel back, on the upward angle, it tensioned the pedal side, while doing nothing to the motor side.
fixed.
duh.
then i put my old 1956 goodyear/columbia back together as a bicycle and it's going on craigs tomorrow.
i woulda went riding today, but there were like 30 mph gusts of wind. i went to the store and almost went moped-a-sailing.
changed a few things on the colson. i'll get some more fotos soon...
just looked up stuff on copper lines. they "work harden" and tend to leak at the flanges. also, the loops were pretty much what i thought. "shock loops" to help keep them from cracking when everything's vibrating.
sounds like the hot tip is to take a small piece of regular fuel line and put that between the copper tube and the fuel barbs. the fuel line will absorb the vibes...
sounds like the hot tip is to take a small piece of regular fuel line and put that between the copper tube and the fuel barbs. the fuel line will absorb the vibes...
Norm , the weight of the fuel keeps it flowing, that loop could go above the fuel level and it would still flow it's called a siphon later Bob