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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Skarrd, Oct 25, 2010.
Built my frame, bought gasket material, and tomorrow will have new carb.
No worries there... the genuine Fred heads come with the extra tall nuts already and I prefer those over all other options, besides that they also look great and no worries about bottoming out on the acorn caps.he also sells the brass exhaust flange nuts which are far better than steel both for their anti seize properties and the softer metal tends to stay put better.... ever since I started using these I've never had to retorque an exhaust nut. The intake side gets self locking nuts and the studs are locktited in with blue locktite so everything there staysnpit very well too.
For the stock slant head that's on it now I took off 1 mm and polished the combustion chamber for better detonation prevention as well as compression, polishing the combustion chamber also helps prevent carbon buildup.
This bike is built for cruising and putting thru the neighborhood but with just a little extra go power if he wants to try it. I got the better jugs at the shop to make a screamer if he decides he wants a 40+ mph beast or even more acceleration I can set up onenof those jugs and add in a 50 tooth rear sprocket so it'll still top out around 35 mph but get there fast.
for now I'm sure he'll be happy just to have it running, the extra power is just the icing on the cake.
just use a zip tie they work very well at clamping the fuel lines
I buy those small spring clampsnfor the fuel lines, they hold really well and stay perfectly round plus they go on and come off real easy. Sometimes I can get the ones that have the extra long tabs so they can be released and installed without needing pliers.
Got some more goodies in the mail today so I installed my new hydraulic caliper and master cylinder today after I closed up shop... world of difference in stopping power... these things can flip the bike now if I pull the lever too hard, and that's with the little 160mm rotor...
I also got a set of Kool Stop Salmon pads for the rear brakes but ran out of time before I could install them, and I made some small progress on getting my 21mm carb to fit the engine but it won't fit in this small frame so I may have to set it aside for my next build and use a smaller 18mm Mikuni on this one.
Fired up my Bridgestone/Mitsubishi chain drive 35cc , and it just..SSSCREEEEAMED!!! This may, it will be 7 years running. last two days, I rectified my spark lead, solderd on a new ground, and added a third spring to my clutch, did some gas tank work too. My magneto braket, broke right off the engine but as long as the mag stays tight up against the motor, it wont go anywhere, so i used hanger strp. I also added some high heat shim gasket papper between the mag and motor head. here are pics. The papper stikin out is my mag clearance gauge. ( two cig pak card board stuck together. ) My clutch springs work really well, and have not smashed up yet.
Oh my that takes me back, - fag packet shims. I had friends who did that with their old British bikes back when I was in my 20s.
ya, its a little trick I learned in high school small motors. ( 4 stroke lawn mower ) , but the gap then was much smaller like two peices of writting papper.
On my 48cc Bridgestone the factory gap is 3 fag pak cardboards.
My clutch pads are worn out bad so im gonna get new one from dealears, they sell same motors as boat trolling motors now, but clutches are the same.
Anyway, i find my clutch on websites for $13.oo however, the Bridgestone factory clutch is $ 70.oo . I'll get the Bridgestone clutch and then get HP springs fron other websites.
After reading the last 3 or 4 pages, I feel like a slacker!! Oh well, tomorrow's another day.........
I had to do away with the changes I made over the winter since the bike hated every one of them. I had bought some opti 2 and mixed up a gallon of (recommended by someone) premium gas.
I also swapped out my magnet for a different one to see what difference it might make, and rejetted for the opti 2 at 100:1.
I guess the premium gas was old in the gas station's tank, or something, but the bike lost all its snap. I gave it 15 miles to settle in, but it only got worse. I ain't blaming the opti 2, but it also seemed to get hot pretty quick.
Then it started dying at idle, and I decided to undo all of it and get my good running bike back.
Took about an hour but I put the #66 jet back, drained the gas and the can, put the original magnet back on, mixed up some regular gas and valvoline oil and took it for a spin.
That was a close one. I also ordered one of those longer, black pipe exhaust systems (not expansion chamber, just a muffla) and will put it on after I do a minor change to the muffler.
I never run premium since its harder to burn unless compression is really high, hhis could have been some of you problem, Im not sure what you jetting was either but ghat may have been some of why you noticed it getting hotter and not wanting to idle right.
Main thing is you got it back uto running the way you like it and thats all that matters, personally I have never had any issues running Opti2 all my engines run great on it at 100:1 and actually other mix ratios as well since the small packets actually mix @ 72:1 which I ran for a long time without issue.
Glad you got it how you like it to run so enjoy and stay safe.
Yeah, I just freaked out and dropped the big one on all changes.
I have the bottle of opti 2 waiting in the wings, but I shall never feed it premium again.
I like the spare magnet, it is an excellent magnet removal tool. It sticks to the one being removed and both come off easy as pie.
The carb is a RT type, I went from a dellorto 66 to a 65 back to the 66.
My gas station is not the flashiest one in town, if you know what I mean.
Not what I did to the bike , but for the bike....
Finished the excavating for the new shop ........ Can't come soon enough .
Yep for Briggs use a recipe card bring the coil down to the magnets with it in tighten it up and work the card out good to go........Curt
Finally swapped out carbs --- NT Speed for a CNS. Wished I had done this sooner!! Quite bit of difference. Hopefully the constant 'chasing the optimal tune' is over.
Disassembled my homemade exhaust. Gonna change it so I can add a rear caliper brake. Hopefully, I can also install the new 36 tooth sprocket with hub adapter this weekend.
Well, tested the new exhaust --- calling it version 3.3. Redneck engineering at it's not so finest! Used the cut off manifold flange from an old muffler, added a conduit connector, threaded on a used water heater copper flex line, and re-used the riding mower muffler with the stainless steel scrubby stuffed in it. So far it works just dandy. Maybe I'll try an extended ride this weekend to see if it's really OK......LOL!
That definitely looks like redneck engineering... I like it
Didn't do much with mine today but I got my 18mm Mikuni carb and manifold waiting to be installed, Got a few KX65 pipes to rearrange for bicycle use, and then tonight I stopped by Harbor Freight... mainly to buy a few tools for the shop and walked out with a 12 ton tubing bender, a band saw, and about another $150 or so worth of supplies for the shop.. Now I just need to make me a notcher and a frame jig...
There ya go.....My Rednecking usually doesn't look that good and shiny, hope it works out great for ya bud.
First I gutted rear hub on the Huffy Karaoke Bike, has a Falcon-SHA Hub if I remember right, haven't touched the hub or greased it in at least 1000 miles, noticed just a little bit of slack in bearings so I figured it was time to service it and re-pack bearings with some good grease.
This bike will be getting new rubber also, noticed some weather cracking on sidewalls.
Below are pix of the coaster hub parts after a good cleaning before they got a good coating of water proof Green Grease and put back together, you'll notice how good everything looks, bearing race area in hub looks just as good as the internal parts, I know some cuss the Huffy wheels and that may be because they don't use these Falcon hubs in all of them, I don't know, but I do know that mine here has had about as much abuse as you could put one through since 2010 when I motorized this bike and everything still looks about as good as new, very little wear even showing on the brake shoes, thankful i got a good one, strong steel rim and 12ga spokes for the wheel.