Wal-Mart bike

Hammond Egger said:
I think it's because the chain was Chinese.
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DUH Hammond so is the engine and the rest of the scoot.... Care to blme this on entropy and string theory also???? XHST you are dealing with all chinese parts you have to learn to minimize such failures....
 
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Wow, firstly - it probably did break because it's chinese. Did you inspect every link before you installed it? Inspect for any signs of stretching in the links and halflinks? Then you can't say it wasn't because it was chinese (which in these forums can be further defined to cheap parts and no quality control). No need to be a jerk.

Did it break at the master link?
 
MarkSumpter said:
DUH Hammond so is the engine and the rest of the scoot.... Care to blme this on entropy and string theory also???? XHST you are dealing with all chinese parts you have to learn to minimize such failures....
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Awww what's the matter Mark....wife cut you off again or did you put too much Kahlua in your coffee. I think I'll stick with poor quality. The chains they ship with the kits are junk. I've had some that the links wouldn't even flex on right out of the box. It's one of the first things I replace on a new build. The chain was new and broke on the first ride. What's your theory? Too stringent quality control.
 
IMO if a brand new chain fails on the first test ride or soon after, the most likely cause would be builder error in most cases. It's a little difficult for me to believe any brand new chain couldn't handle 2 hp.

No reflection on the builder though. I learn a lot by destroying stuff myself lol.
 
Honestly, I'm putting my money on it snapping at the master link. All it would take is the C-clip being put on backwards, or even the entire master link put on backwards and it clipped the motor housing.

As well, we don't know if it's standard bike chain, 410 415, #41 or whatever else it was.
 
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DuctTapedGoat said:
Honestly, I'm putting my money on it snapping at the master link. All it would take is the C-clip being put on backwards, or even the entire master link put on backwards and it clipped the motor housing.

As well, we don't know if it's standard bike chain, 410 415, #41 or whatever else it was.
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It wasn't the master link that broke

Just a regular plate snapped in half

EDIT:

The bike is sitting in my garage wont be able to fix it till i get a chain tool and do some more work

I know what happened was the chain jumped off the sprocket in the front and the cramped space in there broke the link
 
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That's because the chains are made out of recycled AMC Pacers and Gremlins.
Gotta get the Gremlins out of the mix.
 
Ok guys i need help / opinion

How do i center the RED area.
Thanks.

I think thats what caused a low spot in my chain and ultimately a break of one link.
Thanks for the help.


20110513015935252.jpg


Broken chain......................

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Bike sitting idle.
I managed to get it running when the chain was on it. only for a second tho.

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I wedged pieces of cut zip ties in the gap that was between the hub and center of the sprocket. It kept my sprocket centered while I tightened it up.
 
Well guys good news for now

I got the bike running today and did a big test lap around the neighborhood

I had to move the needle in the carb up 1 slot because the bike wouldn't get any speed with the extended manifold i made.

It's running good now tho!

The only problem i have is every once in a while the chain is kinking or hitting somewhere and it worrys me

I think it might just be because my chain tensioner was too loose
I dont know tho

Anyways I'm going to tinker more.
 
Here was me out riding today

chain is still sticking or slapping or something

Shakes the whole bike when it happens

I dont know how to fix it any advice appreciated


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Hi Newbikers. I think you want the chain tensioner on the chainstay, not on the seatstay. When the bike is moving, the top part of the chain is tight going to the engine and the lower part going towards the rear sprocket has slack. The noise may be the chain hitting the engine housing of the engine drive sprocket. I think that is dangerous because the chain can suddenly lock up in there. I wouldn't ride like that until the tensioner is moved to the chainstay.
 
dont know why grubee has to say there kits are so heavy duty and best quality but they give you a pos 410 chain
 
zean said:
Hi Newbikers. I think you want the chain tensioner on the chainstay, not on the seatstay. When the bike is moving, the top part of the chain is tight going to the engine and the lower part going towards the rear sprocket has slack. The noise may be the chain hitting the engine housing of the engine drive sprocket. I think that is dangerous because the chain can suddenly lock up in there. I wouldn't ride like that until the tensioner is moved to the chainstay.
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Zean's right, that could definitely cause your problem. Also check to make sure that the sprocket on the wheel and the cog on the motor are in line. If they aren't that would cause the chain to behave like what you're seeing also.
 
gobigkahuna said:
Zean's right, that could definitely cause your problem. Also check to make sure that the sprocket on the wheel and the cog on the motor are in line. If they aren't that would cause the chain to behave like what you're seeing also.
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I checked to make sure they are in line

But i have a problem.

When i put the chain tensioner on the bottom.

The thing is not sitting straight

How could i bend it to make it fit the chain right?

Thanks for any advice guys


BTW i dont have very much low end on the bike.
It only has top end but it's sort of hard getting there lol.
It helps to assist the motor when i first start riding

Also i burned a hole in the paint near the downtube
The exhaust was alittle to close LOOOOL
 
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